Brake Drums/Discs - Turning them yourself

[scott_vt]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If the rotors arent warped i dont worry about it THE NEW PADS ,OR SHOES WILL TAKE THAT SHAPE!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
ALAN )</font>

Alan has it right, if there not warped, just keep changing the pads. Works for me. 2000 Dodge Ram pickup, 83,500 miles, three front pad changes and they still work great, havnt been turned yet. Occasionally I will use disk sander to break the glaze, maybe I will turn them the next time /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

scotty

 

[jwstewar]

On my '97 K1500 at about 55k or so the front pads were shot. I told the dealer I would replace them (I had already ordered my '99 but it hadn't arrived yet). Took the rotors to have them turned. Everywhere I went they wouldn't turn them, said it was too hard of steel and would ruin their knives. Same story everywhere I went. So I finally gave up and don't remember how much it they were, but it was too much to spend on a truck that wasn't going to be mine much longer. So I put the brakes on like I told the dealer I would do. I said nothing about rotors. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Now on my '99 Silverado I'm at about 92k. Pads are still in great shape (never been replaced) and no signs of warpage. Will probably just change pads when/if needed unless they end up getting a groove between now and then.

On my '97 Accord I'm at 209k. I've put brakes on it 3 times. First time did nothing except pads, but I wanted to change the rotors. It is a big deal on a Honda to get the rotors off. Now I know why they were less than $20 each. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Second time I did brakes they were warpred a little and grooved pretty bad. I put the pads on and then went to a buddy of mine. We turned them while on the car. Then we also replaced the right caliper. The last time I changed them, the pads weren't really worn out, but the backing plate literally rusted off of them. Took them back to Advance and got another set. I also changed the right caliper again as the bolts/bolt holes weren't free so I replaced it again.

So in 209k I put 3 sets of pads on and 2 calipers from my buddy's auto salvage and turned them once. All for $18 as that is what the first set of lifetime pads from Advance cost me. Like clock work at 65k they wear out. I see now they are up to about $28 for a lifetime set. BTW, I've never had my receipt to get the free replacement pads. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Bird]

Scotty, the disk sander method is a popular option with professional brake people now-a-days. Although they usually use a 3" angle die grinder. I've used regular fine grain sandpaper, but there are pads sold by the tool trucks (and elsewhere I'm sure) that look more like a scrub pad you'd use on pots and pans in the kitchen. My brother sold lots of them when he had the tool truck. And, unfortunately, with these overdrive transmissions and heavy city traffic I've had to drive in, I had the front disk pads replaced on our Windstar at the last oil change; only 69,000 miles on it. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Of course I did get it done before they did any damage at all to the rotors. Sometimes you can do nothing but change the pads or shoes without de-glazing the rotors or drums, but also sometimes if you do that, you have squeaky brakes and most folks don't like that even if they do work as well. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[TractorLegend]

Another consideration about cobbling a metal lathe to use as a brake lathe is the silencing/ anti chatter devices one uses on a normal brake lathe. Turning an "undampened" rotor or drum will lead to a terrible finish cut as the cutter "sings" along with a high pitched squeal. A choppy finish will make brake noises and squealing on your brake job.
Anti chatter devices used are various diameters of heavy rubber bands, a buckle style rubber band and some ear muff type deal with some blocks that squeeze against the disc faces.
A shop would likely charge you 10-15 bucks (Seattle prices), depending on size of drum/ rotor if they are turnable. Many shops have their own lathe so you don't necessarily need a machine shop.

 

[ScottAR]

The big money on a brake lathe setup is all of the rotor/drum tooling to hold them true on the arbor while doing the actual turning. The lathe I use at work has maybe 20 pieces of gear for various operations.

The hubless rotors use a clamping setup to hold it centered on a cone.

Rotors with hubs use two bearing simulators that fit in the bearing races.

Composite rotors use a larger version of the hubless setup to hold the sheet metal center near the wear edge. Prevents chatter.

Drums use the hubless rotor clamp setup with a different cutter head.

At the store, Cars are $6, Trucks are $8, and HD trucks are $12. Takes a couple hours for all four.