Brakes for a Ram2500

[RobertN]

I can do the work. I am looking for parts My Dad has 40+ years of Mopar parts expierience; I never researched this stuff. Based on two sets of factory brakes going kapute, I think I want somethingelse.. Now my truck is on jackstands, and I'm without a primary ride, so I need to get on this.

 

[George2615]

I do quite a few brake jobs for co workers and family. Been a mechanic for almost 35 yrs. Most rotors I've been buying at auto parts stores today are made in china. It's stamped on the rotor. The owners of most of the vehicles do not want to spend more for American made so I can't tell you if the rotors would last any longer. I usually buy Bendix pads and I don't buy the cheaper pads. For my own vehicles I get lifetime warranty parts. The caliper sliders need to be cleaned and lubed in order to work properly. If they aren't then the inside pad wears out twice as fast as the outer.

 

[RobertN]

If they aren't then the inside pad wears out twice as fast as the outer.

That is what happened. There was no indicator, ie squeaker. It was just working fine, and then grinding.

 

[RobertN]

Appears I can get Powerstop rotors for $250 from Summit, or EBC for $200. Heavy duty pads are $75-90.

Have not checked NAPA yet. I'm guessing more standard Brembo or equivilant parts are cheaper. The above is for drilled and slotted rotors. Hey, that Turbo Cummins is fast

 

[ScottAR]

Wagner (morse) premium pads would run about $50-$70 an end. I'm not sure on the dodges, On the ford 4x4s the rotors just slip on. The uneven wear is stuck calipers as others have stated.

If you need a new hub assembly, The dodges used both a Dana 44 and a Dana 60.
The Dana 44 mounts with 3 bolts and the Dana 60 mounts with 4 bolts to the knuckle. I hope the hubs are ok as they are $$$.

 

[Dargo]

Dang! I made it to 105K before I changed any pads on my '96 1 ton 4X4 diesel dually. No kidding. I changed the rear drums while I was at it and used the NAPA GM rear wheel cylinder (bolts right on and is larger) and now the rears work much better. Heck, I'm pulling about 16k behind my truck most of the time as well. I guess I have my trailer brakes adjusted up plenty...love that Prodigy controller.

 

[RobertN]

I pulled it apart last night. Rotor is trash; it is below minimum. I limped it home about 25 miles, but it is finished.

My other rotor shows a lot of wear. In the middle of the rotor, it is barely meeting min thickness. If it is surfaced to clean it up, it would take it below min. With 88k miles.

I am looking at aftermarket rotors and pads. Even though my Dad can get a break on pricing, the factory stuff is just as expensive as high grade aftermarket.

There are some rotors and pafds that are less expensive. But, I haul stuff every couple of weeks, either the tractor or the Troop trailer. I don't want to be hauling our Troop trailer and have a bunch of Scouts in the truck and have a brake failure...

 

[RobertN]

Here's an update...

My parts came in yesterday. Last night I installed EBC slotted rotors and matching heavy use pads. Made sure the sliders were clean, lightly lubed, and working smoothly.

It all went together very easily. A 4 mile drive seemed to go smooth, brakes felt good during breakin stops as recomended by the papers for the pads/rotors.

We'll see today; I have to run across Sacramento for some Boy Scout leader training in a few minutes.