Branson 3510 Motor Issue

johnnyo1111 · Jan 3, 2012

a lot of white corrosion sounds like it is useing and burning oil,

Wadmalaw · Jan 10, 2012

Took the 3 injectors to Superior Diesel in North Charleston, they took them apart, cleaned and tested them. $127.76 for the work. Apparently they needed it. More later.

Wadmalaw · Jan 15, 2012

OK, a quick update. Got the cylinder head off, there are no cracks. There was a tiny bit of rust on one spot of Cyl. #3 so obviously the gasket was failing, letting some coolant in. Between that and a bad injector, no wonder I was getting some hammering and white smoke..

Now, while the motor is loose, I've found that there is some slop at the connector rod on cyl. #1 so I'll be replacing that bearing. One question, I should be able to get that done without further engine teardown (like removing the piston), correct? It's a pain to reach it from under the tractor with the fwd driveshaft in the way but I can work around that, I'm pretty sure.

DavesTractor · Jan 15, 2012

Since you are this far along, another hour or two and you can replace all the rings and all of the rod bearings. Might as well. I'd pull the driveshaft out of the way. That will freshen up everything.

Zork · Jan 15, 2012

Dave is correct. I would check all the pistons and rings. I would at least inspect that one piston and rings. You can check and plastigage the mains one-by-one, if you want. What kind of slop do you have at the rod journal; side to side or excess clearance? Have you plastigaged the bearing?

[Edit: I bought the engine manual to the 3T series
(mod's 2810,3510,3520,4020,4320, and 4520) from my dealer for $54, I think. The head torque sequence is worth that but the photos are such pooooor quality the sequence is not distinguishable. I got the sequence faxed to me through the dealer].

Wadmalaw · Jan 19, 2012

The slop on the rod journal is just excessive clearance.. no side-to-side. I'm going to be ordering an entire set of bearings and rings. I've got a quote of $240.27 for the parts drop-shipping to zip 29412.

I'll be checking the journal for any damage this weekend, and I've never used Plastigauge but it seems simple. (for others who need explanation, this is a great video tutorial - Engine Tech Using Plasti-gauge.mov - YouTube ) I'll do that when I'm installing the new bearings.

Zork - you're correct - the photos in the manual are crap! Barely readable.

Wadmalaw · Jan 21, 2012

OK, I need some help. I don't have the chassis manual, and I'm trying to get the front driveshaft out of the way. Got the front coupling off, not sure on how to disconnect the back end from the gearbox. I drained all the gear oil, turns out I probably didn't need to.. here's a photo of where I am.

Is the shaft supposed to come out of that collar, or behind it? If anybody has a diagram with an explanation, that would be awesome. If it's too dang involved, I might just work around the dang thing to get to the rods.

Thanks in advance,
Bobby

Zork · Jan 21, 2012

Here is what I have.

DavesTractor · Jan 21, 2012

Wadmalaw said:
Is the shaft supposed to come out of that collar, or behind it? If anybody has a diagram with an explanation, that would be awesome. If it's too dang involved, I might just work around the dang thing to get to the rods.

Thanks in advance,
Bobby

I ought to just slide out of the coupler once it is disconnected from the front axle.

Wadmalaw · Jan 22, 2012

Got the driveshaft out of the way - thanks for the diagrams, it was just being sticky. Pulled all three pistons. As suspected, the rear connecting rod bearing had spun and was wearing. The other two look fine.

There's some galling on the connecting rod, I need to inspect the crankshaft journal carefully, but it looks ok. Should I replace the connecting rod, or can it be cleaned up or polished and re-used?