Branson 3510 New Fuel Pump & Filter - no fuel at injectors

   / Branson 3510 New Fuel Pump & Filter - no fuel at injectors #11  
The injection pump itself is probably a licensed copy of the Bosch VE like on the 20 and 25 series. They're common- among other applications they were used on VW and Volvo diesel engines, also early Dodge Cummins pickups.

www.dieselduck.info/machine/01 prime movers/2008 Robert Bosch VE-type Injection Pump.pdf


There are tons of places that sell VE pump parts including Chinese copies. The VE was made in a huge number of variations though.
 
   / Branson 3510 New Fuel Pump & Filter - no fuel at injectors
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Thanks for that suggestion. So yesterday I did not go get that solenoid from the dealer. I took some rubbing alcohol and tried to clean the contacts on the connection plug the sits under the fuel filter housing.

While it may be temporary - the solenoid IS working.... for now. I'm going to hold off on ordering or purchasing anything for now. Since I seem to be able to hand-operate that shutoff lever when the solenoid fails, I think I can get by.

One thing about those manual cables... To use one the way I would want to. I'm going to have to make a bracket and lever so that when I pull the cable handle it shuts off the fuel. If I set it up in a straight in shot as it would logically go I'd have to pull the knob out to turn on the fuel and if I bumped that knob I'd shut off the fuel - way to easy to happen when you are bouncing around doing the brush hogging on my place. So I'll have to think on that one.... unless anyone has done that already and can provide drawing or photo of how they did it.

Thanks to all for the comments.
 
   / Branson 3510 New Fuel Pump & Filter - no fuel at injectors #13  
You may be able to add a bellcrank mounted between the cable's pull handle and the injection pump (where convenient) to reverse the cables motion.
 
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   / Branson 3510 New Fuel Pump & Filter - no fuel at injectors
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Thanks, Somehow in the back of the old mind I knew there had to be a simple way but just couldn't think of it.

Yup That sounds like a winner and a lot cheaper than the electric solenoid that apparently has not performed well for a lot of folks.

My tractor is now 14 years old and 389 hours of use but a lot of that was brush hogging (Bush hogging says my old Mississippi Friend) in the rougher part of our place dodging in and out of little meadows most no more than 100 by 70 feet and between trees. So all-in-all it's held up pretty well.
 
   / Branson 3510 New Fuel Pump & Filter - no fuel at injectors #15  
If it is of any help; Not sure how similar they are, but Dodge Cummings 5.9L diesel fuel solenoids are fairly famous for "going out". However, they hardly ever really need replaced. If you just disassemble and clean, then replace and the dust boot if it is shot, they will work forever. The Dodge dealer would quote you about a grand to replace this solenoid!
 
   / Branson 3510 New Fuel Pump & Filter - no fuel at injectors #16  
I know this thread is a bit old but I want to say thanks to all of you who contribute here. This thread finally gave me the tip that I needed. I recently hunted down an issue I've been having for years with my fuel delivery system. I've replaced lift pumps and filters needlessly. I knew I had a bad wire in my lift pump wire because I could hear it wasn't running every time I turned the switch. I chased down the bad connection then my tractor would no longer start. I found two problems aside from my bad lift pump electric connection. Frist, the fuel on/off valve was no longer working in the fuel filter assembly. I wasn't getting but just a few drops on the output of my fuel filter. Took it apart to find that the on/off lever would not operate the nylon valve inside and it was closed. I got it turned and all my fuel pressure issues were resolved!!! I need to get a new filter assembly sometime since it seems the internals may not be sold seperate (need to ask a dealer). However, still no start even after bleeding at top of the injection pump (10mm bolt with philps head threaded into another bolt). This thread finally lead me to the second issue... test the solenid wire leading to the pump. It was not hot with key on. Ran a hot wire direct to test and could hear it softly click. Had wife start the tractor while I held the hot wire in place and it started right up. Seems that I have yet another bad connection.

For reference I have a Century C47L which seems to be the same as a the 4720 from everything I've seen in the 4720 parts catalogue. The following lift pump seems to work fine for only $12 on Amazon for anyone that looks for one. The replacement pump was over $200 if I recall correctly, which is just dumb.
Electric Fuel Pump 12v Electric Transfer Universal Low Pressure Gas Diesel Fuel Pump 2.5-4psi HEP-02A (figured the description would be better than a future broken link)

Thank again and hopefully what I shared here will help someone down the road. If I cant find the short I may run a new wire to the switch.
 
 
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