Branson 6530R loss of power and white smoke

[Texasmark]

Tuning back into this, one has to ask what is magical about 2100 RPM and above vs below? And since white smoke is water vapor, what is the water source?

Cylinder leak down says you have a leak in the combustion chamber but where?

Running high RPMs puts more stress on the valve train and the opening and closing of the valves and combustion pressures associated could be a place to investigate.....I recall, many years ago, about "hot rodders" and "valves floating" at higher RPMs....requiring them to use solid, not hydraulic lifters in their "automotive" engines....I took that to mean that considering average in and out movement of "air"....since an engine is basically an air pump...;.it became continuous rather than pulsating.....but that doesn't address the white smoke part of the equation....no water intrusion in mal-adjusted valves, or valve operation period......and the valve train in the B3.3 is solid, no hydraulic involvement...but there could be the averaging air flow thing.

Normal leak sources would be valves and rings. Neither are associated with water. So one has to look beyond normal.

One thing to check would be to remove the radiator cap and run the engine where is starts smoking and see if you see any bubbles in the coolant. Bubbles would indicate cylinder compression leaking into the coolant. Well, if it's leaking out during the compression stroke, it sure enough can suck water in on the suction stroke.

But where is the magic in RPMs????? Possibly there isn't enough volume....small leak at the lower rpms wouldn't allow that much into the combustion chamber....but you have an in-out pressure averaging condition which should be uniform across the RPM band one would think.....but the "volume" of the averaging would be lower and may be present but too low to detect visually!!!!!

So it looks like we have a leaking head gasket, cracked head, or block......but after your latest tests, none of these make sense either.....so are we back to fuel and water in the fuel???????

So, is the fix worth the effort? Well, first thing I would do would be to go to an OTR Truck stop and get some known pure diesel, then go back and clean up the supply chain to the injector pump to ensure that you are only using known pure diesel and run an operational test to see what happens. If that fails also then........

On my B3.3 NA I can get by on 2100 RPM before I would go through the hassle of dismantling the front end of my tractor to try and find the source of running above that RPM problems....nothing says your efforts will be fruitful.....nothing says they won't. Flip the coin.

Just brainstorming here and trying to help.
Good Luck!!!!

 

[Cougsfan]

I am not sure why you are saying that a leaking head gasket, cracked head, or block don't make sense, Texasmark. Could you explain? White smoke is usually a sign of water getting into the combustion. Those are the most probable sources. I wouldn't rule out water in the fuel, but I would put it at a much lower possibility.
Most radiator shops can analyze radiator fluid for combustion residues. If positive, that would indicate a leaking head gasket, cracked head, or block. That might be worth doing. Looking for bubbles with the cap off was good suggestion, but I am not sure that is always a 100% fool proof unless the leak is severe. The radiator must be full all the way to the top of the cap for that to work, and even then it is not a sure fire diagnostic method.

 

[ericm979]

The tractor's valve springs will be selected to prevent float at the normal peak operating rpm. Since tractor engines don't turn very fast, that's not hard. The springs are wimpy compared to performance engines. You can hear valve float.

It's unlikely to be valve float. The springs in good condition will prevent it, and if they're broken or something else is wrong with the valve train, it would cause problems at all RPMs.

 

[Texasmark]

You aren't going to get water out of valve float. I was just brainstorming, letting things roll by and that one didn't fit.

I was leaning toward a cracked block/head/headgasket till I read his latest post where he took things off and observed each cylinder for performance and found several places where water was apparently present.

Normally one finds adjacent cylinder head gasket problems between 2 cylinders, not the whole head gasket....but that's possible I suppose if the engine has been overheated. If that's the case all bets are off, especially if it was cooled down too fast......now that one just struck me...that is a definite possibility. So I'll go back to square 1 and check the history as I forgot if this tractor was bought used....be right back......

Question answered...first words in the first line of the post: "I bought a 2006........about 7 months ago..........."

Brainstorming again....back to fuel....if fuel was bad since it goes to all the cylinders it can make any or all smoke....that fits part of the narrative.

You know anything is possible but I'm a "don't fix it if it ain't broke" guy and I'd make positive, without a shadow of a doubt that my fuel wasn't the problem.

Another brainer.....bad fuel wouldn't show contamination in the radiator nor the crankcase...he has neither symptom!!!!!! Back to bad fuel!!!!!!

 

[Williy]

Does this critter have a water separator in the fuel
line?? Did not see it mentioned

willy

 

[Texasmark]

Yes. The 3.3 has a drainable separator as part of the fuel filter housing......but when was it last serviced...the filter and the drain?

More brainstorming......good point you make......max flow is required to feed the ponies above 2100. Sucking on an old, clogged filter and maybe worn with a hole in it and water in the separator, not serviced.....would support the criteria for bad fuel.....back to my point....guarantee that he was only feeding PURE diesel to the injection pump and then see what happens theory.

Edit: "I put on a new fuel filter and the air filters are clean."......part of his opening satements. He apparently has a manual since he quoted Cummins compression ranges from the book. The manual covers proper filter replacement. I have changed mine but don't have the exact procedure at my finger tips....it includes ensuring that solid fuel is available for the pump upon completion.

 

[K5lwq]

I am betting he got the problem resolved. I imagine he pulled valve cover, set the valves and is back in business.

He stated he was not losing any fluids. If water was coming from head or head gasket he would be losing coolant. To some people all smoke is white so I kinda gave up on the idea it was water vapor. Also never a mention of overheating.

It is likely we will never know. He either fixed it or gave up.

 

[Texasmark]

I am betting he got the problem resolved. I imagine he pulled valve cover, set the valves and is back in business.

He stated he was not losing any fluids. If water was coming from head or head gasket he would be losing coolant. To some people all smoke is white so I kinda gave up on the idea it was water vapor. Also never a mention of overheating.

It is likely we will never know. He either fixed it or gave up.

Well now it's my turn to ask a question: What do mal-adjusted valves have to do with white (water vapor) smoke above 2100 RPM or at any rpm...with a warm engine.....excluding normal condensation sometimes experienced on startup and especially idling on cold days.

Since he bought it used he has no idea as to what the engine experienced prior to his owning it...on the possible overheat thing.

 

[K5lwq]

Well that is true. However I have had many people tell me they see smoke and I ask what color and they say white. It could be black who knows. Again he has not replied after asking about valve adjustment so either it is fixed or he gave up. I not convinced on the color of his smoke.