Big_Lug
Silver Member
I picked up a Napa Gold oil filter #1334 that cross referenced. Just to let ya'll Branson owners know. My tractor is a 4020.
Branson Oil Filter cross reference
- Thread starter Big_Lug
- Start date
Chipperman
Platinum Member
Guys and Gals
Just a word of advice on hydraulic filters (if that is what you are refering to) for Century/Branson it is my uderstanding that the Kukje hydraulic filter has a large bypass in it. Most of the after market filters have a much smaller bypass that can cause you problems. I am all for saving money but not when it will cost me more later.
Just my 2 cents
Happy Tractoring
Chipperman /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Just a word of advice on hydraulic filters (if that is what you are refering to) for Century/Branson it is my uderstanding that the Kukje hydraulic filter has a large bypass in it. Most of the after market filters have a much smaller bypass that can cause you problems. I am all for saving money but not when it will cost me more later.
Just my 2 cents
Happy Tractoring
Chipperman /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Please help me understand the by-pass issue.
I'm guessing that a LARGE by-pass lets a lot of fluid by-pass the filter when it becomes clogged, whereas a smaller by-pass allows less.
My GUESS is that the symptoms of a clogged filter would be more apparent (sooner) with the smaller by-pass filter. The larger by-pass might let you just go about your work with little/no drop-off in hydraulic performance.
OK, so we should all be changing our filters WAY before they need to be changed anyway, but right now I'm not seeing any advantage to the large by-pass, in fact I'm seeing it as a LARGE negative. Of course, if filters are changed way before they start to load up then the by-pass should never open anyway - errr, moot ?
I'm guessing that a LARGE by-pass lets a lot of fluid by-pass the filter when it becomes clogged, whereas a smaller by-pass allows less.
My GUESS is that the symptoms of a clogged filter would be more apparent (sooner) with the smaller by-pass filter. The larger by-pass might let you just go about your work with little/no drop-off in hydraulic performance.
OK, so we should all be changing our filters WAY before they need to be changed anyway, but right now I'm not seeing any advantage to the large by-pass, in fact I'm seeing it as a LARGE negative. Of course, if filters are changed way before they start to load up then the by-pass should never open anyway - errr, moot ?
dancce
Silver Member
This is just my opinion, but as a dealer who sees a lot of tractors go through the shop (all brands)---I do not believe that the brand of engine oil filter is as important as is the hydraulic filter---(as long as it is a good quality filter).
Engine filters serve one purpose---to keep contaminates out of the lubrication system of the engine.
Hydraulics filters serve the same function but, in most newer tractors, this fluid must also lubricate the transmission, rear axle, and operate the external hydraulics, (loader, three point lift,and possibly other remote cylinders). This hydraulic system,is also required to put out a specified volume and pressure in order for everthing to work properly. A good quality after-market hydraulic filter will most likely do the job of filtering out contaminates---but will it allow the proper flow to operate the system as designed?
I believe that trying to save a few bucks on a hydraulic filter is a poor investment in the long run. (The same goes for hydraulic oil too.)
"The older I get--the more I appreciate hydraulics"
dancce
Engine filters serve one purpose---to keep contaminates out of the lubrication system of the engine.
Hydraulics filters serve the same function but, in most newer tractors, this fluid must also lubricate the transmission, rear axle, and operate the external hydraulics, (loader, three point lift,and possibly other remote cylinders). This hydraulic system,is also required to put out a specified volume and pressure in order for everthing to work properly. A good quality after-market hydraulic filter will most likely do the job of filtering out contaminates---but will it allow the proper flow to operate the system as designed?
I believe that trying to save a few bucks on a hydraulic filter is a poor investment in the long run. (The same goes for hydraulic oil too.)
"The older I get--the more I appreciate hydraulics"
dancce
snoboy
Silver Member
A few observations here.
This thread was started regarding engine oil filter cross ref. A NAPA 1334 will work for us... cool!
I dont think most hydraulic/transmission filters even have bypass valves. I know for a fact the Wix 51202/ NAPA 1202 has NO bypass. It flows 28-30 GPM. Hydraulics may get hot and sheardown the fluid and get some dirt in the system mostly if you have a leaky system. Hydraulic systems are not creating soot and combustion byproducts like an engine. I IMHO cant see a filter clogging up in the recommended 300 hrs or 2 yrs. especially if we have done the initial cleaning of the hydralic pre-filter screen.
I have decided to stick with OEM for hydraulics and air for simple reasons. I believe Baldwin makes the OEM hydraulic which is a good product and Donaldson makes the OEM air filter and again IMHO Donaldson builds the best air filtration.
OK I said all that to say this... My 3 point bumps when its cold out and the fluid is cold and I'm using OEM hydraulic filter. I believe its the fluid itself. I have purchased Cenex Maxtron THF Synthetic blend for my next fill. It has outstanding cold flow specs. the best I have found. Kinda spendy ($62.00 for 5 gal) I believe it will work great for me in the winter. If the 3 pt still bumps well then I guess it still bumps. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Heres the specs for Cenex Maxtron THF http://www.cenex.com/Downloads/MaxtronTHF.pdf
snoboy
This thread was started regarding engine oil filter cross ref. A NAPA 1334 will work for us... cool!
I dont think most hydraulic/transmission filters even have bypass valves. I know for a fact the Wix 51202/ NAPA 1202 has NO bypass. It flows 28-30 GPM. Hydraulics may get hot and sheardown the fluid and get some dirt in the system mostly if you have a leaky system. Hydraulic systems are not creating soot and combustion byproducts like an engine. I IMHO cant see a filter clogging up in the recommended 300 hrs or 2 yrs. especially if we have done the initial cleaning of the hydralic pre-filter screen.
I have decided to stick with OEM for hydraulics and air for simple reasons. I believe Baldwin makes the OEM hydraulic which is a good product and Donaldson makes the OEM air filter and again IMHO Donaldson builds the best air filtration.
OK I said all that to say this... My 3 point bumps when its cold out and the fluid is cold and I'm using OEM hydraulic filter. I believe its the fluid itself. I have purchased Cenex Maxtron THF Synthetic blend for my next fill. It has outstanding cold flow specs. the best I have found. Kinda spendy ($62.00 for 5 gal) I believe it will work great for me in the winter. If the 3 pt still bumps well then I guess it still bumps. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Heres the specs for Cenex Maxtron THF http://www.cenex.com/Downloads/MaxtronTHF.pdf
snoboy
snoboy
Silver Member
dancce you type too fast. I was actually replying to the thread before yours was posted. I think you and I are basically saying the same thing though.
snoboy
snoboy
dancce
Silver Member
Snoboy,
That's the first time I have ever been accused of typing too fast. (My secretary laughs every time she catches me trying to type.)
I was using the two finger method though. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I agree that your cold weather problem is probably related to the fluid.
dancce
That's the first time I have ever been accused of typing too fast. (My secretary laughs every time she catches me trying to type.)
I was using the two finger method though. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I agree that your cold weather problem is probably related to the fluid.
dancce
DPH
New member
Has anyone tried another brand for the 4020 Branson hydraulic filter?
sandybeach
Bronze Member
NAPA 1334 is a good match for a 3510i, too. That advice came from the dealer (he's 150 miles + a ferry ride away). He didn't have a suggestion for the hydraulic filters, but the new dealer nearby (35 miles) can get the "official" ones for me. "My" dealer could get them, too.
By the way, On the 3510i hydrostatic transmission, there are are two filters, and they line up vertically. In other words, the lower filter blocks access to the upper one.
Last time I changed hydraulic oil & filters, the upper filter had a seal that wouldn't seat correctly. But ... you don't know there's a problem until you
So I carefully reinstalled both filters, added the fluid, and tested. Still leaking! So I went through the whole process again - drain, remove and replace filters, add oil. But this time I swapped the location of the filters. The problem followed the bad filter - now the bottom filter leaked. At least now the good filter was on top, and the bad one on the bottom. Ordered a new filter. Did the whole thing again.Voilà! The newest filter (now on the bottom) was good.
The cost of that bad filter: $30 for the filter, 2 trips to and from dealer, at least ½ gallon of fluid (most of it spilling on my face and hair), a heck of a lot of cat litter, and at least 10 extra hours wasted laying on my back. On the other hand, I did improve my vocabulary - but it would have been cheaper and faster to take an English class at the local college. My wife's comment: at least the spilled oil didn't stain the driveway like used engine oil does.
For what it's worth, I got used to spending a lot of time scrunched tight underneath a leaky engine (read: hot oil in my face). Back in my hippy-ish days I had 3 VWs - at the same time! For those who don't know or don't want to remember, the old VW pancake engines needed almost constant adjusting on the cylinder #3 exhaust value - adjusted hot, of course. If you didn't keep it adjusted, you'd blow the engine. When I got rid of the last VW, I had to figure out what to do with all that free time!
Dr. Murphy is always lurking near me, and his Laws are nasty! The good news: Mighty Mo (my wife's name for the Branson) has lots of room for servicing.
By the way, On the 3510i hydrostatic transmission, there are are two filters, and they line up vertically. In other words, the lower filter blocks access to the upper one.
Last time I changed hydraulic oil & filters, the upper filter had a seal that wouldn't seat correctly. But ... you don't know there's a problem until you
- install both filters and
- add the fluid and
- run the engine and
- try out the hydraulics.
So I carefully reinstalled both filters, added the fluid, and tested. Still leaking! So I went through the whole process again - drain, remove and replace filters, add oil. But this time I swapped the location of the filters. The problem followed the bad filter - now the bottom filter leaked. At least now the good filter was on top, and the bad one on the bottom. Ordered a new filter. Did the whole thing again.Voilà! The newest filter (now on the bottom) was good.
The cost of that bad filter: $30 for the filter, 2 trips to and from dealer, at least ½ gallon of fluid (most of it spilling on my face and hair), a heck of a lot of cat litter, and at least 10 extra hours wasted laying on my back. On the other hand, I did improve my vocabulary - but it would have been cheaper and faster to take an English class at the local college. My wife's comment: at least the spilled oil didn't stain the driveway like used engine oil does.
For what it's worth, I got used to spending a lot of time scrunched tight underneath a leaky engine (read: hot oil in my face). Back in my hippy-ish days I had 3 VWs - at the same time! For those who don't know or don't want to remember, the old VW pancake engines needed almost constant adjusting on the cylinder #3 exhaust value - adjusted hot, of course. If you didn't keep it adjusted, you'd blow the engine. When I got rid of the last VW, I had to figure out what to do with all that free time!
Dr. Murphy is always lurking near me, and his Laws are nasty! The good news: Mighty Mo (my wife's name for the Branson) has lots of room for servicing.
Hello..... I just ran into this thread
If I may ask....does anyone know the cross reference #for an oil filter for my Branson 5220C oil filter for my motor.
kukje # is NRA1102000A3
thank you in advance for any help
John
If I may ask....does anyone know the cross reference #for an oil filter for my Branson 5220C oil filter for my motor.
kukje # is NRA1102000A3
thank you in advance for any help
John