Branson questions

[DavesTractor]

Can you tell me if I would have to add anything to the SSQA loader to get the blower attachment to work on it? Extra control only, or do I need a separate hyd line connection to make the blower spin/chute rotate?

A hydraulically spun blower takes a lot of hydraulic volume, and most compact tractors do not have enough. You see them on skid-steers but they often have 20-30 GPM pumps, large hydraulic tanks and hydraulic coolers to keep the oil from getting too hot, and they run large lines/hoses for the hydraulics. You will not have the capability to spin a front mounted snow blower with that tractor unless it is mechanically driven. If mechanically driven, it does not typically mount to the loader. It has it's own sub-frame and a shaft runs under the tractor to the rear PTO, which has a "drop" on it to get the power down under the tractor and also to allow for some gearing to get the speeds correct. You then run a hydraulic or an electric chute rotator and possible deflector.

What you are wanting is ideal, and makes sense, but you have to go to a pretty good size tractor to get 20 plus gpm off a remote. Lot's of guys run the blower on the back and a plow on the front and plow all they can and blow when they must. That way you are carrying both snow weapons! But there is no doubt that backing up is hard on the back/neck.

HST is probably best for snow blowing, or a tractor with a couple more ranges. We recently sold a 100 HP Deutz-Fahr to a guy that professionally blows snow, it had a 40 forward/40 reverse hydraulic shuttle. If he can't find the right gear, he isn't trying hard enough.

 

[DavesTractor]

Hey Slim.

I have a 3520H... hydrostatic transmission... my first tractor.

Regarding stump pulling, I bought mine in part because I have a lot of stumps to pull. Unfortunately these are California Live Oaks and being a drought resistant species, the tap root and root system is ridiculous. I'm reminded of the scientific fact that 90% of an iceberg is under water. With the backhoe I've done a lot of excavating around these trees but even with that I've snapped a chain, and bogged down the tractor. The Branson is definitely heavy enough especially with 800 lbs of rimgard in the rear tires and the backhoe attached but even a much larger machine wouldn't have the power to get these stumps out.

For context I'm talking about oaks that are about 12" diameter breast height as a forester or arborist would measure... I was an arborist for 10 years and grinded out a lot of stumps so I was surprised at the difficulty of removing these particular ones. My next thing is to use block and tackle to multiply my mechanical advantage... and I'll probably need to get into the excavation with a good battery sawzall to cut roots as I pull... it'll be a bit tricky and dangerous.

Getting back to your situation, it would depend on the type of trees but regardless of species, I don't think you'll be pulling too many trees out on brute force unless they're in the 6" and under group.

Good luck.

Lots of wisdom in those words Bob. Years ago before I had my first tractor, I borrowed a 90 HP Case from my dad. I tried to pull out a 6" live oak. I wrapped a chain around a cross bar between the three-point lower arms and lifted. I snapped the chain. I got a bigger chain, snapped it. Got a bigger chain and did a wheelie. Finally dug and chopped the tap root. BTW, doing what I did was dangerous. I was a kid, and did not think about a rear rollover or flying bits of chain.

But I can go to a 16" Pistachio tree and push it over pretty easily with my skid-steer. Many trees can be pushed over pretty easily. Try that on an Oak and it's a joke. Now I have an excavator, but on oaks you still pretty much need to rip through the tap root or its not coming over.

The type or tree, the type of soil and the moisture level in the soil are all significant factors. Sometimes it is best to cut the tree at ground level and grind the stumps.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Thanks Dave, my local dealer pretty much confirmed what you said. I finally was able to get time to visit with him yesterday. So, I'm rethinking my needs a bunch. Kinda hard to let go of the idea of swapping front blower for FEL and back, but that's how it is. I'm sure I don't want a skid steer, so... But, being able to look over the tractors in person yesterday (finally), I think I've got my mind made up on a 3725CH, with cab, heat and AC, a 3pt 6ft brush hog, a box blade, and probably order a piranha cutting edge, maybe some edge tamers, and possibly a set of clamp on forks.

He had the 3725 sitting there, and I was able to get in it and drive it around a bit. I think it's the one I'm going to go with. Hopefully will have time to call him back tomorrow (couldn't get time today). We haven't talked financing or warranty yet, so we'll see.

 

[DavesTractor]

Slim, great choice of tractor. On the forks, skip the clamp-on and go with a set of quick attach skc style. The clamp-on forks are great if you do not have the quick attach bucket, and great at lower capacity levels, but for this tractor I'd go with the real deal forks.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I hear you Dave, just trying to cheap out (a little bit) :laughing:

I'm sure I'd end up getting the real SSQA forks eventually, but to be honest I don't need forks much, would come in handy for setting my 5th wheel hitch in and out of my truck bed though. My hernias "speak to me" every time I have to take that thing in or out.

 

[ericm979]

I bet the cab version of the 3725 is really quiet inside. I'm still marveling at how quiet my open station 3725 is.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

It's very quiet, even under load. Smooth, very little vibration, even has that "New Tractor" smell.



We'll see if we can put the deal together today.

 

[DavesTractor]

I hear you Dave, just trying to cheap out (a little bit) :laughing:

I'm sure I'd end up getting the real SSQA forks eventually, but to be honest I don't need forks much, would come in handy for setting my 5th wheel hitch in and out of my truck bed though. My hernias "speak to me" every time I have to take that thing in or out.

We probably sell 50-75 sets of clamp-on forks a year, so they for sure have their place in the scheme of things. What I don't like is that when lifting odd shaped objects the forks want to splay outward or inward unless clamped really tight. Not an issue if you are lifting pallets. And the load is 18" or so further forward, diminishing capacity. But for your hitch, they would work great.

 

[rgr33]

I agree on passing on the clamp on forks and going for the Qa from the start. You may not think you will use the forks all that much now, but you will be surprised at how much you end up using them. My forks are on 80% of the time compared to the bucket.

For the stumps that need removing on my place, I cut them close to the ground and rent a stump grinder from Home Depot. Disposing of a big stump is not easy, and burning one a hassle.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I know. It's like when you buy a brand new hammer, everything starts to look like a nail.

Well the deal is done. Papers are signed. Dealer will fill the tires with Rim Guard, weld on some chain hooks onto the bucket, and deliver it to my place next Saturday (I'm going to be out of town most of next week).

I purchased the tractor with FEL, box blade, brush hog, trailer hitch, draw bar, and clamp on forks.