etpm
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2021
- Messages
- 2,299
- Location
- Whidbey Island, WA
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM2310, Honda H5013, Case 580 CK, Ford 9N
If this were my tractor and if I had the limited experience you do I would either remove the line completely and take it to a welder or if I had to repair in place I would first try silver bearing plumbing solder. Silver bearing plumbing solder can have a tensile strength of 15,000 PSI. See this link: https://www.stoodyind.com/Catalogs/FISC/current/05catpg372.pdf
If a tin/silver alloy is used to flow over the joint and later it is decided to braze the joint the tin/silver alloy can be cleaned off and the joint brazed. Any miniscule amount of the tin/silver solder left on or in the joint will not interfere with brazing. Tin/lead solder however must be avoided at all costs. Lead will contaminate the joint even if you think all the lead is removed. Tin/antimony solder must also be avoided. Only tin/silver alloy can be used. It is also possible, with proper torch technique, to build up quite a thick solder bead. This can also be done with brazing but it is harder. Anyway, just my 2 cents.
If a tin/silver alloy is used to flow over the joint and later it is decided to braze the joint the tin/silver alloy can be cleaned off and the joint brazed. Any miniscule amount of the tin/silver solder left on or in the joint will not interfere with brazing. Tin/lead solder however must be avoided at all costs. Lead will contaminate the joint even if you think all the lead is removed. Tin/antimony solder must also be avoided. Only tin/silver alloy can be used. It is also possible, with proper torch technique, to build up quite a thick solder bead. This can also be done with brazing but it is harder. Anyway, just my 2 cents.
