Break In Period

[FSE]

Is there an hour number that you would stop varying the RPM for break in? I have 12 hours (between rain and cold there is nothing I can do with the BX) and was wondering if I need to stay with the RPM changing or can I stop now? And If I need to continue what is the magic number?

 

[gwdixon]

Do what the manual says - 50 hours. And then change out all of the fluids for sure.

If there is nothing you can do with it in the weather then don't. For sure don't just run it to run it except maybe once a month for 20 minutes, or so, just to keep the juices flowing.

Some here on TBN would advocate the break-in period be 100 hours. It wouldn't hurt.

 

[FSE]

Do what the manual says - 50 hours. And then change out all of the fluids for sure.

If there is nothing you can do with it in the weather then don't. For sure don't just run it to run it except maybe once a month for 20 minutes, or so, just to keep the juices flowing.

Some here on TBN would advocate the break-in period be 100 hours. It wouldn't hurt.

So I will need to keep varying the RPM for the first 50 hours? I have a hard enough time remembering to do it now. I know when I start to mow this spring I will forget to do it. I probably won't hit the 50 hours till next fall or winter.

 

[TheFlatlander]

Is there an hour number that you would stop varying the RPM for break in? I have 12 hours (between rain and cold there is nothing I can do with the BX) and was wondering if I need to stay with the RPM changing or can I stop now? And If I need to continue what is the magic number?

Think about this. if your tractor requires a specific RPM to do the job. how do you do the job? run the tractor as you need to. Mowing = Full RPM, other things are Operator discretion. Snow plow is best at full RPM if you want to get the job done with travel speed. Your PTO also appreciates full rated RPM to get the rated power. Drop your RPM in Between if it makes you feel better.

Use it as you need it. When did you buy a new vehicle and only drive 45 mph until break in. Did you buy something that couldn't do the advertised job?

Run it as you need it and do the required maintience and enjoy your purchase.

 

[kuboman]

Just to mix things up here. The break in recommendations are somewhat out of date. Think of a generator engine. It goes to rated RPM and stays there for thousands of hours with no ill affects so I think your tractor engine will be just fine running what it has to.

 

[gwdixon]

Perhaps the issue is really about what "varying the RPM" really means. I think it means that one shouldn't take a new tractor engine and, say, hook it up to an irrigation pump and let it run for a week at some set RPM to flood a rice field.

Running it 20 to 30 minutes at one RPM and then at another is probably a better idea than constantly gunning and idling the throttle in 10 second sprints. That is not what someone means by "varying the RPM".

I would advocate that one should also vary the load on the engine occasionally to get it used to that variable as well. Work it hard for awhile.

Generators are built to run at the same speed all of the time so varying the RPM won't matter. Tractors obviously are run at different speeds and loads.

If a tractor is run at various speeds then the piston rings should be broken in so the lands and cylinder walls are all mated for a variety of RPMs. Same with the bearings.

 

[TripleR]

GWDIXON makes a good point as the term "vary RPM" is not specified and some may feel they need to do this on a constant basis. I pretty much stay with his method of breaking my machinery. I have been able to do everything I wanted to and not "baby" my machine and stay within Manual guidelines.

Proper "break-in" is an ongoing topic on motorcycle, ATV, RUV/UTV forums and there are a wide variety of opinion, but I believe the people who designed and built these machines know more about it than any of us. Yes, you can ignore the break-in guidelines and your tractor isn't going to blow up on you and you will still get a lot of years use out of it, but I "believe" they will last much longer and be more dependable if you follow the Manual.

 

[Chilly807]

I agree with what the guys are saying here. Use it "normally", unless your version of normal includes steady load, steady rpm for long periods.

Snow plowing is ideal, the rpm and load both vary frequently. Even mowing isn't so bad, as you come out of a cut and turn to make the next one, the load and speed changes. I'd avoid mowing a "loop", instead make stops and turns and reverses at the end of each strip.

If you have hydrostatic drive (I'm thinking you do) mow for 10 minutes at whatever speed you need, then lower the engine speed and make a "wasted trip" to get back to beginning of your mowing pattern, then resume mowing. The "rest" in cylinder pressures and speed is enough to achieve what you're trying to do.

I didn't want to bush hog much when I first got mine to avoid steady rpm and load. So, I did what I outlined above. Coming back to an idle and reversing helped. It has about 25 hours so far, runs great, I haven't added a drop of oil yet and don't expect to.

We rebuild and break-in diesel generators and propulsion engines at work, the generators (1600 hp) go to 1800 rpm after a few low speed unloaded runs. The load is gradually increased over a period of 12 hours until the break-in schedule is finished. The propulsion engines (~10,000 hp) have a varied speed and load break-in over a period of 35 hours. They have also been broken-in at constant speed and varying load, although that's not ideal. We've never had oil consumption or ring/cylinder glazing problems.

The manufacturer recommends "ideal" conditions, in the real world it isn't always like that. I'd recommend to you to run it "normally", vary the load and speed as much as you can reasonably. Avoid full-speed full-load conditions at first, allow it to warm up for 10 minutes at about 1500 rpm unloaded before using full power. In other words don't be afraid to use the tractor, but try to be gentle for the first while. Prolonged idling is not good, the cylinder temperatures aren't high enough to burn the fuel completely, you get soot and soft carbon buildup and "slobbering" (wet exhaust).

Chilly

 

[BeezFun]

My friend's family owned a Peterbilt dealership when we grew up in high school. When they rebuilt an engine they put it on a dyno that was programmed to vary the load and speed of the engine over a period of a few hours. I remember the thing running at one rpm for a few minutes, then increasing, etc. But that was only for a few hours. I'm not sure why the diesels on a tractor should require such a long breakin period. I was careful the first few days with mine, then I forgot all about it.

 

[Chilly807]

Some of our break-in routines are as little as 4 hours, depending on the manufacturer. Most commercial (truck) engines don't get a lot of break-in hours before they're delivered to the customer. A few hours to initially seat the rings, ensure there are no problems with the mechanicals, then it's out the door.

Break-in methods aren't nearly as delicate as we would be led to believe, the problem is that there are customers that actually think they should let the engine idle in the driveway for hours to "break it in gently", and on the other end are the full-throttle guys that think it should be driven like it was stolen as soon as they turn the key.

Chilly

Chilly