markls8
New member
Here's an interesting technical link on this topic. It applies to motorcycle engines specifically, but you can generalize some of the principles to diesels I think. Hope this helps. http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Break-in RPMs
- Thread starter familyman
- Start date
- Views: 2174
OP
familyman
Platinum Member
Thanks for the great article. I posted this a while ago, so I was surprized to see a new reply.
In one of my previous posts regarding engine oil change I expressed my opinion that a very early oil change on a new machine was good medicine -- this article supports that approach.
Another article by a Harley engine builder (American Iron magazine??) also stated that several hard acceleration/deceleration cycles on a new motor, after warmup, is the best way to seat the rings for long engine life.
However, 2 problems come to mind regarding our low rpm diesel engines:
1. Are they machined or designed any differently with regard to fit and metallurgy than high rpm gas engines?
2. High load/rpm conditions are not always feasible, depending on a persons specific applications for the machine.
Thanks again, and any other info would be appreciated.
Charley
In one of my previous posts regarding engine oil change I expressed my opinion that a very early oil change on a new machine was good medicine -- this article supports that approach.
Another article by a Harley engine builder (American Iron magazine??) also stated that several hard acceleration/deceleration cycles on a new motor, after warmup, is the best way to seat the rings for long engine life.
However, 2 problems come to mind regarding our low rpm diesel engines:
1. Are they machined or designed any differently with regard to fit and metallurgy than high rpm gas engines?
2. High load/rpm conditions are not always feasible, depending on a persons specific applications for the machine.
Thanks again, and any other info would be appreciated.
Charley
dmftoy1
Silver Member
Well I'm definately not any form of expert as far as engine break-in, but I can tell you a story about our visit to the Navistar plant in Indy. When they were building the 7.3L engines for Ford they would run each engine for a few minutes checking all it's vitals, etc and then the thing would be "stress" tested. If I remember right they were running it's redline for something like 10-20 minutes. If everything checked out at the end of the run then it was packaged for shipping (after it cooled down).
We went back and did the plant tour again last spring (and they were building the 6.0L ). They don't do this any longer (except on randomly selected engines). They had some cool robotic test harness that attaches itself to the engine (all ports, etc) and they can cycle everything on the engine without having to run it like they did the 7.3's.
Anyway, I've run mine (by necessity) at 2500 rpm when mowing since new, and so far so good. I did send a sample of my oil to blackstone for testing at 100 hours and they said the engine looked to have broken in well with low wear metals, etc.
Have a good one,
Dave
We went back and did the plant tour again last spring (and they were building the 6.0L ). They don't do this any longer (except on randomly selected engines). They had some cool robotic test harness that attaches itself to the engine (all ports, etc) and they can cycle everything on the engine without having to run it like they did the 7.3's.
Anyway, I've run mine (by necessity) at 2500 rpm when mowing since new, and so far so good. I did send a sample of my oil to blackstone for testing at 100 hours and they said the engine looked to have broken in well with low wear metals, etc.
Have a good one,
Dave
_RaT_
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2000
- Messages
- 5,813
- Location
- Peoples Republic of Northern CA.
- Tractor
- Kioti 3510-SE HST
My Kubota manual for my L3830 simply states to keep the engine under maximum engine RPM (translates to "pedal to the metal") for the first 50 hours. With almost 300 hours I have yet to see the need for WOT. PTO speed is below WOT. 2000 RPM is to low for a little engine working a mower and in most folks opinions I would bet they would conclude that lugging a diesel would not be beneficial, particularly for a brand new engine. Get your new engine up to PTO RPM.
Rowski
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 18, 2000
- Messages
- 1,474
- Location
- North Central Vermont, Jay Peak Area
- Tractor
- 2004 New Holland TN70DA with 32LC loader, 2000 New Holland 2120 with Curtis cab, 7309 loader
Great info in this thread.
I'm getting my new tractor soon. I have about 25-30 hrs of field mowing to due. So i searched the TBN and found this thread.
My question:
Is the break-in different for a turbo diesel and the turbo itself?
Some of the grass I will be cutting is very tall and thick. I suppose I could slow my speed down to put less load on the engine?
As mentioned I don't have my tractor yet so no owners manual.
I'm getting my new tractor soon. I have about 25-30 hrs of field mowing to due. So i searched the TBN and found this thread.
My question:
Is the break-in different for a turbo diesel and the turbo itself?
Some of the grass I will be cutting is very tall and thick. I suppose I could slow my speed down to put less load on the engine?
As mentioned I don't have my tractor yet so no owners manual.
JerryG
Super Member
<font color="blue">Is the break-in different for a turbo diesel and the turbo itself?</font>
The only thing that you need to do different, is to make sure to let it idle for a minute or so, before shutting it off. The bearings in the turbo need to cool down some. If they are shut down hot, the oil will coke on the bearing and make rough places. That will destroy the bearings.
The only thing that you need to do different, is to make sure to let it idle for a minute or so, before shutting it off. The bearings in the turbo need to cool down some. If they are shut down hot, the oil will coke on the bearing and make rough places. That will destroy the bearings.
