I can't agree that tires being squashed down change their effective ratio. That may change the radius of the tire at the point of contact, but it doesn't change the rolling circumference of the tire, which is what affects the ratio between front and rear gearing. The shape of the tire circumference has changed but the circumference itself is the same.
Setting your ties to the widest stance does add a bit to the loading on the axle stubs due to increased leverage, but I believe this is within the design limits of the equipment, as the manufacturer shows all the possible configurations. The trade off in increased stability is well worth the possible diminution of safety margin in the axle stubs and bearings, I believe. Your mileage may vary, as they say, but I spend a lot of time on hills where i want all the stability I can get. Worn out bearings can be replaced cheaply - a rollover, broken back or neck are much more costly.
A front end loader is for moving stuff, not digging it out, carving hillsides, or prying stuff out of the ground. Of course we all do some of those things, but you do it knowing that you're on thin ice and take all the possible precautions. If you do have to use the loader as a dozer, you take very small bites and peel away the side of the hill a very little at a time or you break things. Ramming the bucket into immovable objects WILL break things - either the loader itself or the tractor. If you have to move heavy loads in the bucket, make a rear counterweight you can hang on the 3-point hitch to take some of the load off the front drive train. A block of concrete the right size works fine. I just leave my brush hog on and that handles all but the heaviest loader loads. Anything too heavy to be counterbalanced by the 'hog is probably too much for the loader to handle safely.
Good luck with getting things squared away! Tommy at Affordable tractor is a great guy who will do all he can to help you out if you can' tget what you need locally.
RIch
