Breaking in new tractor

[mcfarmall]

Google the Motoman break-in method.

 

[oldafretired]

For sure the big concern on a new machine is manufacturing residues... manufacturers recommend it be done, so I follow the directions. I suppose at higher speeds the filtration systems are more likely to be bypassed to supply demand with suspended milling and casting particulates, but as far as hammering the rings into place and seating everything... computerized production should make for much more exacting tolerances than the days of "break-in oil". I have experience with a handful of machines, whereas the manufacturer made them all. I do what they say, and never rely on the governor to tell me the rpm's are too high. Occasionally there are consumers have two speeds: OFF and WOT, and if it blows at WOT when its new: manufacturing defect under warranty. I wouldn't get overly anxious about taking it to 85-90% after a couple hours. Lugging is the thing to avoid.
Is WOT really that close to PTO speed on that machine?

Yup, it's about 2700 RPM and the throttle is almost all the way up.

 

[Texasmark]

Probably a dozen real reasons to be easy early on.

But I haven't done that for the last 7 or so engines I have broken in in the recent past. I do ensure that they get exercised through the rpm range, chainsaws and weed eaters excepted....they run full blast if running, right out of the box. Running a new Stihl 16" right now in it's first few hours with Stihl full syn, gray bottle.

Only thing I watch is engine temp but none of them have even moved past mid range. I'm convinced that what we get for engines and petroleum products far surpass anything we have seen in our lives and different times allow different responses......works for me anyway. I used to worry about air cooled engines getting hot. Not today. I use the non-contact Infrared thermometer and to my surprise, don't have an air cooled on the place that runs anywhere near the 210F my Silverado is locked to with it's 2 sequential electric fans.