Spreader Broadcast Spreader

[greg_g]

Does anyone know off hand why the agitator (upper) is unessary with the Poly hopper spreader as opposed to the steel version?

I was wondering that too. Obviously wet contents will be less likely to cling to the poly sides. But the agitator extension also breaks up compaction and clumps. Poly or steel, I think I'd still want the option to install the extension when I think it's necessary.

//greg//

 

[mark.r]

I was wondering that too. Obviously wet contents will be less likely to cling to the poly sides. But the agitator extension also breaks up compaction and clumps. Poly or steel, I think I'd still want the option to install the extension when I think it's necessary.

//greg//

I asked the guy at Agri-supply when I ordered mine Monday and he told me that the agitator will wear through the poly hopper eventually. I ended up buying the steel one, it was about 50 bucks cheaper in the end. I figure I just need to make sure to keep in clean and story it in my barn.

 

[greg_g]

I asked the guy at Agri-supply when I ordered mine Monday and he told me that the agitator will wear through the poly hopper eventually.

Makes perfect sense to me. Would have been less confusing though, if they were that honest in the catalog too.

//greg//

 

[MFL]

The agitator for my Sitrex is one of many of my 'just in case' tools. When I purchased my spreader, it also came without the agitator. I asked at the dealer why and they said basically the same thing. The agitator will wear away the paint on the inside of the cone and create a rust line where it touches the cone. Over time the rust will wear through and you will end up cutting the cone in half. When the salesman told me this, I thought of the spreader at the farm where we used to board our horses and remembered the rusty groove they had in theirs.

So I bought the agitator, 'just in case', but have never installed it. I have never needed to spread anything that was a powder. Everything I spread is in granular form, and unless my fert. or lime is wet, it drops right through the cone.

So the agitator sits in the original box. On the shelf. 'Just in case'.

 

[mark.r]

The agitator for my Sitrex is one of many of my 'just in case' tools. When I purchased my spreader, it also came without the agitator. I asked at the dealer why and they said basically the same thing. The agitator will wear away the paint on the inside of the cone and create a rust line where it touches the cone. Over time the rust will wear through and you will end up cutting the cone in half. When the salesman told me this, I thought of the spreader at the farm where we used to board our horses and remembered the rusty groove they had in theirs.

So I bought the agitator, 'just in case', but have never installed it. I have never needed to spread anything that was a powder. Everything I spread is in granular form, and unless my fert. or lime is wet, it drops right through the cone.

So the agitator sits in the original box. On the shelf. 'Just in case'.

My agitator came instlled but based on what you've just posted it seems that I can probably take it out and do with out since I am going to be spreading pellatized lime, fertalizer, and grass seed.

 

[MFL]

Mark,

Like they say in the commercials, 'results may vary in your area', but yeah, I would disconnect the agitator and just hold on to it. Even with the main unit out, you can still get a little agitation without damaging the the cone. What I did was run a bolt/washer/lock nut combo through the stubby connector arm that comes up into the cone. This is going to turn regardless of whether you have the agitator connected or not. With this setup, I get a little help breaking up any clumps that may be in the mix, the rest flows out by itself, and I'm not gouging a groove into my cone. Works pretty well for me. Of course If you ever need to spread a powdered weed killer, or powered lime, you'll want to put the unit back on. Powder tends to create a void above the gate and the rest of the powder will just hang above it and not fall through.

I'm actually taking off three days this coming week to re-seed some fescue/clover mix and put down some fert on my pastures. Looking forward to some time on the Kubota.

 

[mark.r]

Mark,

Like they say in the commercials, 'results may vary in your area', but yeah, I would disconnect the agitator and just hold on to it. Even with the main unit out, you can still get a little agitation without damaging the the cone. What I did was run a bolt/washer/lock nut combo through the stubby connector arm that comes up into the cone. This is going to turn regardless of whether you have the agitator connected or not. With this setup, I get a little help breaking up any clumps that may be in the mix, the rest flows out by itself, and I'm not gouging a groove into my cone. Works pretty well for me. Of course If you ever need to spread a powdered weed killer, or powered lime, you'll want to put the unit back on. Powder tends to create a void above the gate and the rest of the powder will just hang above it and not fall through.

I'm actually taking off three days this coming week to re-seed some fescue/clover mix and put down some fert on my pastures. Looking forward to some time on the Kubota.

Thanks for the advice. As soon as I get some time in the next week or so to get the unit unpack fromt the pallet I'll have a look at it. My soil went to the lab early this week so hopefully I'll results next week some time and then I can start buying what I need in preparation to get started in the next couple of weeks. I have to work around the horses so I need to rotate which fields I do by a couple of week throughout the month of March and April.

 

[MFL]

Mark, sounds like we have similar setups. My four are on the larger, back pasture right now and will stay there through March while I work the front pasture and get the fescue started. Then move them and repeat. I wish we had enough space to rest a pasture for a full year, but we do what we can! What kind of seed do you put down in the spring in your neck of the woods?

 

[greg_g]

That bit about the agitator cutting a metal hopper in two is a gross exaggeration. I have a line around the inside of mine too, but it's black rubber. New agitator extensions should have a rubber rim around the metal disc at the end. The only way the paint could get worn off is if someone carelessly used an agitator that had all the rubber worn off. Metal on metal will then grind off the paint, opening the door to rust.

Even pelletized lime has clumps. I use the agitator regardless. If your chute clogs, it's already too late to install the extended agitator. If you're going to spread material that might have lumps in it, you're best off erring on the side of caution. Install the agitator extender - hold it straight up - pour in your material - let the material hold the agitator in a vertical position. It's easier for the PTO to get it spinning that way, and it breaks the lumps as centrifigal force slowly works it through the material towards the side of the hopper. There should be little or no contact between the rubber wheel and the side of the hopper until the hopper is getting near empty.

//greg/

 

[MFL]

Greg,

Just my experience, but the agitator I have has a metal wheel on the end with no rubber covering. The agitator on the spreader at the farm we used to board with also had a metal wheel. The other three or four working spreaders I've personally seen have either had metal wheels or no agitator. Also the one on the farm where we boarded had a groove that I could actually feel. Course, I have no idea how old it was or how often they used it. I agree that my saleguy saying it would cut the spreader in half was just what all salesmen do, exaggerate, but as I said, I have no problems using my spreader without the agitator. My bolt/washer setup takes care of the occasional clump pretty well. So for me, I am erring on the side of caution. I get the job done without a problem, and since there is no agitator, I don't even have to worry about a black rubber line!