Tx Jim
New Member
AH176266 HYDRAULIC CYLINDER,45X28-405, 734 Bucket Cylinder 513.59 for Bucket Cylinder (013055 -) I presume these numbers are the spec's 45X28-405, 734
Loader broke 420 loader lift cylinder
- Thread starter arkvet
- Start date
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LD1
Epic Contributor
IT appears so. Thats the same diameter cylinder on my bota. 1.77".
I assume a 1.10" rod diameter, and a 15.9 stroke.
Boy if you could find a 2" cylinder with a 1.125" rod and 16" stroke that had the right length and mounts that would be the ticket right there.
I assume a 1.10" rod diameter, and a 15.9 stroke.
Boy if you could find a 2" cylinder with a 1.125" rod and 16" stroke that had the right length and mounts that would be the ticket right there.
Egon
Epic Contributor
If the rod is broken close to the piston head take it to a shop and they may be able to fix it...
The old thread from a few years ago http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/186398-upgrading-john-deere-loader-cylinders.html was a great help. He gives quite a few details on the mod.
The cylinder he used for the bucket is https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7707-16&catname=hydraulic which is a 2" cylinder with 1.25" rod, 16" stroke. The mounts have to be modified but with the bucket cylinders the change looks to be fairly easy. This new cylinder if $130.
One more question: Since the hydraulics are "tied together" would it be a problem to only replace the broken cylinder rather than both? The OEM is 1.75" and the mod is 2" so volume would differ but probably not by much considering a larger diameter rod. I guess I'd think that with a small difference such as that the pressures balancing would take care of itself. The fluid is going to take the path of least resistance (least pressure) so more would simply go to the larger cylinder when extending. Please tell me if my logic is flawed. I can do both if needed but thought I'd try one first.
Details Chief WT Hydraulic Cylinders | Bore 2in. Bore - 3000 PSI 2 X 16 WLD CYL 1.25 ROD 217-706
This one fits the specs very close. The ends could be cut off and welded back as needed. Just happened to notice that this is one of their higher end cylinders. Half price right now at $95.
This one fits the specs very close. The ends could be cut off and welded back as needed. Just happened to notice that this is one of their higher end cylinders. Half price right now at $95.
LD1
Epic Contributor
If you change the size of the broken cylinder, change them both. Otherwise you will put one heck of a stress on the pins and frame trying to twist the loader, as one cylinder will be slower than the other.
I took the good bucket cylinder off last night and took the measurements. Definitely need a 2" x 16" stroke cylinder. 1.125" or 1.25" rod would work. These are the easy criteria to meet. The toughest find was the retracted length of 31". 16" stroke cylinders are typically in the 24" range and although I'm confident in my welding skills I really have no desire to lengthen the shaft if at all possible.
I stumbled upon the cylinder below which other than the end mounts is nearly perfect!!! I'm going to try and figure out a way of drilling out the base end to the needed 1" diameter. The rod end will just be cut off an replaced with the appropriate size round tubing. If I cant figure out how to drill the base end out (neatly) then I'll just weld a round tube to that end as well. Would prefer to drill it out to limit the heat I'll have to expose to the cylinder. The only difference in specs is the stroke length of 16 1/8". That extra 1/8" wont' make a bit of difference with both being replaced. Oh, and these cylinders are $79 each!
Can someone help me with the hydraulic hose / connections? All of my short loader hoses are in need of replacement. I can't believe only one has blown on me over the past 3 years (when I bought it). My local tractor shop has a big pneumatic crimp. They made me an identical replacement last time. I remember it being in the $50 range which I thought was stiff for a 12" hose. What size/type connectors does my loader have and whats the best / most economical way to go about replacing them all (while I'm at it).
Thanks guys!
Surplus Center - 2X16.125X1.25 DA HYDRAULIC CYLINDER
I stumbled upon the cylinder below which other than the end mounts is nearly perfect!!! I'm going to try and figure out a way of drilling out the base end to the needed 1" diameter. The rod end will just be cut off an replaced with the appropriate size round tubing. If I cant figure out how to drill the base end out (neatly) then I'll just weld a round tube to that end as well. Would prefer to drill it out to limit the heat I'll have to expose to the cylinder. The only difference in specs is the stroke length of 16 1/8". That extra 1/8" wont' make a bit of difference with both being replaced. Oh, and these cylinders are $79 each!
Can someone help me with the hydraulic hose / connections? All of my short loader hoses are in need of replacement. I can't believe only one has blown on me over the past 3 years (when I bought it). My local tractor shop has a big pneumatic crimp. They made me an identical replacement last time. I remember it being in the $50 range which I thought was stiff for a 12" hose. What size/type connectors does my loader have and whats the best / most economical way to go about replacing them all (while I'm at it).
Thanks guys!
Surplus Center - 2X16.125X1.25 DA HYDRAULIC CYLINDER
Last edited:
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
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- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 32,246
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
Although I can't help ya with the hoses, since I'm not looking at the machine, sometimes JD uses ends that are specific to them. Otherwise you can order hoses thru Surplus Center with the most common type ends and fittings.
Don't worry about welding on the cylinder. When welding the base end, do it with the cylinder extended. You won't harm the ram seals. I've cut ends off cylinders and welded on different types several times. If welding on the rod end, also do it extended so you don't overheat the barrel seal.
Sounds like you may come up with a cheap fix. Let us know the results after you have it assembled and use it awhile to indicate any problems or changes in behavior.
Lastly, your cylinders are more than likely metric size. So you aren't going to find aftermarket stuff that perfectly matches anyway. In theory, because the oil supply is "T'd" to both cylinders, the supply should equalize itself even if one cylinder is slightly different from the other. For a savings of $400 it's worth a shot!!!
Don't worry about welding on the cylinder. When welding the base end, do it with the cylinder extended. You won't harm the ram seals. I've cut ends off cylinders and welded on different types several times. If welding on the rod end, also do it extended so you don't overheat the barrel seal.
Sounds like you may come up with a cheap fix. Let us know the results after you have it assembled and use it awhile to indicate any problems or changes in behavior.
Lastly, your cylinders are more than likely metric size. So you aren't going to find aftermarket stuff that perfectly matches anyway. In theory, because the oil supply is "T'd" to both cylinders, the supply should equalize itself even if one cylinder is slightly different from the other. For a savings of $400 it's worth a shot!!!
thanks to everyone for the advice! I think I have come up with a good repair solution. I'm going to take my old cylinder to the local steel yard and have them match the crosstube material.
Heck, maybe after the replacement I'll sell the good cylinder (and maybe the bad cylinder for parts) on ebay, and actually come out ahead I bet there are people out there that would rather have the used OEM cylinder than do what I'm doing. Same thing can be said for the lift cylinders but right now they're good... and adding lift height is NOT something I really care to do. It's already tipsy with only moderate loads at full height.
I went ahead and ordered the cylinders but have a set of calipers and am going to go ahead and try to figure out what hoses and fittings I'm going to need for the replacement. Looks like at surplus center I can get the hose assemblies for about $6 each and the fittings are probably going to run about $3-$4 each. I was shocked at how much cheaper it's going to be than having them custom made with crimps locally.
I'll document the repair and come back with some pics and a story of how it went.
Heck, maybe after the replacement I'll sell the good cylinder (and maybe the bad cylinder for parts) on ebay, and actually come out ahead
I bet there are people out there that would rather have the used OEM cylinder than do what I'm doing. Same thing can be said for the lift cylinders but right now they're good... and adding lift height is NOT something I really care to do. It's already tipsy with only moderate loads at full height.I went ahead and ordered the cylinders but have a set of calipers and am going to go ahead and try to figure out what hoses and fittings I'm going to need for the replacement. Looks like at surplus center I can get the hose assemblies for about $6 each and the fittings are probably going to run about $3-$4 each. I was shocked at how much cheaper it's going to be than having them custom made with crimps locally.
I'll document the repair and come back with some pics and a story of how it went.
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 32,246
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
I've bought a lot of hoses and fitting from Surplus Center. I find their product to be adequate and durable. I too was shocked when I first started buying from them. They are 25% of the cost of having a hose built locally.
