3-Point Hitch Broke My 3 Point hitch 20 HP Nortrac

[Walter L]

Like walter said.. If ya got a welder, clean the break up, v-cut both sides and hit it with 1/8 6011



I love the 5/32 7018 myself. 70,000 pounds per sq .in I use it on almost all my jobs

Im with you Kenmac, with the 7018 my welding looks like I know how to weld and I know better, Give them a try Soundguy I think you will like that rod.

Walt

 

[Walter L]

As for 7018.. I've got an ac only machine..

Im using an AC machine, it works good on rusty metal, strikes real easy and just a better rod for me, but as I have said I am not much of a welder someone that knows how to weld good it probably would not make any difference.

Walt

 

[Soundguy]

As I said.. I've used them. I don't have much call for 70k that 60k won't handle. if I need it to look pretty.. i can face over the 6011 with 6013 and get that 'row of dimes' look just fine.

Soundguy

Im with you Kenmac, with the 7018 my welding looks like I know how to weld and I know better, Give them a try Soundguy I think you will like that rod.

Walt

 

[kenmac]

Not trying to argue here but, I have had a 6011 weld break & not the weld of the 7018. So, if something has / is broken I prefer the 7018 over the 6011 to put all back together.7018 will tend to bend a little b-4 it breaks . I'm not looking for the pretty weld , just one that will hold .I use 6011 alot but on something as thick as the are that is broken I just feel that 7018 would work best

 

[Soundguy]

No arguments here either.. I don't claim to be a welder.. but .. I've just had sooo much better luck with deep penetration with a 6011 rod.. than pretty much anything else. ( I'm not necescarilly blaming the rod.. it could likely be lack of technique or experience.. or insuficient metal prep.. etc.. ) Again.. I've welded with both. Biggest stuff I routinely weld is 1/2".. have done 3/4 on some projects.. but not very often.

Again.. i think it is one of those cases where you have a hundred pound cart.. and 2 bridges.. one rated for 1000# and the other rated for 2000#... The darn cart seems to go over both of them great.. but one is cheaper and more readilly used for more purposes..

When I've used 7018 was with new mild steel.. no rust.. no paint. I feel i got a great weld with it. I made a set of very HD ramps for loading trailers.. never had a problem with them... On the same token.. I've noticed on rusty metal or painted metal that I don't have time to clean properly.. that 6011 seems to perform the best..

Again.. I "ain't no welder....".. just an observation from an arc-welder owner..

At work.. If I play around.. I'll use our DC tombstone... nice machine.. i actually prefer it to our large mig.. unless I'm doing thin metal.

For my around the farm use.. the big cheap ac only job gets me buy. I don't weld alot.. so i don't like to keep lots of rod on hand cuz i don't want it to go to waste... Thus I pretty much only 'stock' the 6011.. as it tends to be 'all purpose' for me.

If I need some specialty 7014 / 18 .. etc.. I go get it. I usually have a couple pounds of 6013 as well.. in case something needs to be especially 'pretty'..

Soundguy

Not trying to argue here but, I have had a 6011 weld break & not the weld of the 7018. So, if something has / is broken I prefer the 7018 over the 6011 to put all back together.7018 will tend to bend a little b-4 it breaks . I'm not looking for the pretty weld , just one that will hold .I use 6011 alot but on something as thick as the are that is broken I just feel that 7018 would work best

 

[Frankm]

yes thats what i used 7018, but you want to be sure its clean , its just that i dont think it should have broke , till a guy showed me one off a big case tractor, that did the same thing, and it was a lot heavyer then mine.

 

[bjr]

Soundguy, I agree with you on the 6011. I'm always in a hurry and just wanna get it done, Sooo prep work probably leaves something to be desired and the 6011 seems to take that in stride and everything I've put together seems to stay together. The rest of the story is I got a old box of 1/8 6011 when I cleaned up a guys place that had died, so I'm using that up. A grinder and some hurry up paint job covers most of my Gorilla type welding (real ugly but pretty strong). I've done a lot of give away favor type jobs for the neighbors and they appreciate things being put back together cheaply, so I just do what needs to be done, nothin' real pretty but makes it usable. bjr

 

[Soundguy]

I like that.. 'gorilla welding' ( ugly but strong )!!

Soundguy

 

[mjncad]

...what kinda junk steel are they makeing them out of ?

Chinese Alumasteel.

 

[stevem5215]

I was just going to ask the same question about our FarmPro 2420 3 point. I hit a stone with the brush hog deck and it snapped the lower 3 point arm just at the weld where they put bracing on the bottom of the arm. Funny thing is though when you look at the break it's obvious that the metal was fatigued from the original weld job. Just the same old low quality we expect from chinese manufactured products that are low cost. It's the same old saying... good, fast, cheap. Which two do you pick.

Steve

Ps. I'm having mine welded this week. Hope to have the tractor back online soon for some more brush hogging.