broken lift arm shaft

[jinman]

Absolutely, that's why in absense of having a written factory directions, one need to have proper witness mark on all compaonents, Rock shaft and lift arm externally and what that translate to position of arm inside. This can be done with lift arm fully up or down, no matter, but much easier with the arms down and in rest.

JC,

The repair manual instructions say to mark/score the rockshaft and lift arms for re-alignment when reinstalling. It also says to do the same with the internal lift lever. However, that is for reinstalling the same parts. If I buy a new rockshaft and it is not keyed in any way (and certainly won't be marked), it would seem that the only important thing is the relative positions of the inside lever and outer arms. After installation of the rockshaft, but before putting on the lift arms, I could run the lift control all the way to the top and then put the lift arms on the shaft ends and also put the lift high-limit lever on at that same position. The lift all the way to the top and the lift arms also at the top seems a constant in every case I can think of. Here is a photo of the right side rockshaft on my tractor (not that it looks any different from the OP's).

Edit: I'm adding one more photo. Wouldn't it be cool if you could remove the toplink bracket on the rear of the lift casing and have an opening into the case to view and hold parts? (You can't) Check out my added photo.

 

[JC-jetro]

The repair manual instructions say to mark/score the rockshaft and lift arms for re-alignment when reinstalling. It also says to do the same with the internal lift lever. However, that is for reinstalling the same parts. If I buy a new rockshaft and it is not keyed in any way (and certainly won't be marked), it would seem that the only important thing is the relative positions of the inside lever and outer arms. After installation of the rockshaft, but before putting on the lift arms, I could run the lift control all the way to the top and then put the lift arms on the shaft ends and also put the lift high-limit lever on at that same position. The lift all the way to the top and the lift arms also at the top seems a constant in every case I can think of. Here is a photo of the right side rockshaft on my tractor (not that it looks any different from the OP's).

Edit: I'm adding one more photo. Wouldn't it be cool if you could remove the toplink bracket on the rear of the lift casing and have an opening into the case to view and hold parts? (You can't) Check out my added photo.

Jim,

One can transfer witness mark from the old broken rockshat/lift arm and also on internal rockshaft/arm to the new shaft. That is enough with no reference material or as you suggested per the book. I agree about being able to holds part from the rear bracket but we can already do that with a helper from the front removing the cylinder head and then piston/cylinder sleeve. I saw your photo. The only bad part of fancier tractor is that you have to take a lot of stuff off just to get the darned lift cover.


The best thing is to have tandem external hyd lift with two cylinders externally mounted. That's the cat's meow.

JC,

 

[xtn]

I don't know anything about anything, but wouldn't it be possible to drive the old shaft out WITH the new shaft, just having the new one follow the old one through and keeping everything lined up?

xtn

 

[JC-jetro]

I don't know anything about anything, but wouldn't it be possible to drive the old shaft out WITH the new shaft, just having the new one follow the old one through and keeping everything lined up?

xtn

Yes or no, You can drive the old shaft out with the new shaft, but really nothing but the old shaft is holding the internal arm and the ram rod. It'll be "hole in one" for all to line up and get it done without damage to internal parts. The tolerances are quite tight.

JC,

 

[bsstreet]

thanks to previous posters for the info, enough yahs to intice me into giving it a try!

update: parts arrived. The shaft will slide out, fairly easily (after mods to Rops in the way) but only from right to left. Before pulling the shaft all the way out, I replaced it back across, but I did not have it fully off of the internal arm. I put a dowel in the right side as I was taking out the shaft from the left to keep the internal arm (#48) from dropping. When I went to slide the new shaft in, I can get it part way through, but could not get the shaft past the splines of the internal arm (#48). The new shaft appears off center in the arm opening and the arm piece is not fixed and wants to drop or move forward or back, so I could not seem to get it centered. After fidgeting with it an hour last night and again this afternoon, still no luck and the worst part (maybe) is that now I let the dowel slip out of the arm from the right hand side and the internal arm has fallen out of reach and sight.

Now the question(s) is/are...

Jinman, are you sure you can't look and feel inside the cover by removing the bracket (#2) from the back of the cover? is there no opening there? If not, I think its time for the entire cover to come off (meaning the seat/tank/lever covers/rops.....have to come off too which looks to be a real pita).

Could the arm be picked back up with a strong enough magnet?

any other suggestions???

Thanks again.

 

[jinman]

Jinman, are you sure you can't look and feel inside the cover by removing the bracket (#2) from the back of the cover? is there no opening there? If not, I think its time for the entire cover to come off (meaning the seat/tank/lever covers/rops.....have to come off too which looks to be a real pita).

Well, there's only four bolts to remove to find out. I don't think there is access under the cover, but it won't take much effort to remove and find out. I think it is time to start pulling your platform. Dropping the arm inside the casing pretty much guarantees you need a full disassembly. But what have you lost? If you didn't give it try, you'd never know whether you could do it or not. Removing the platform has always been the "official" way to remove the lift assy for access.

 

[JC-jetro]

Like I said on couple of occasions, one can have access to the internal lift arm without removing the lift cover. it requires a helper. One need to remove cylinder cover, piston and the cylinder liner to expose internal arm . it is not a difficult job.

JC,

 

[bsstreet]

Good update!! I was able to fish the dropped lift arm out using an improvised metal hook from both sides and get my dowel back in. AFter considerable more fidgeting, the new one went in slick as greased owl #@&%! My only concern is that now I cannot rotate the lift shaft by hand like I could before disassembly when it would move through about a 30 degree rotation. I did lower the hydraulic lever during removal of the seat while the engine was off and I have not started it back up. I have alot of other assembly before trying it out; I started removing seat/fenders etc, but decided to give the hooks a try when it looked like the floor below the seat was going to have to come off. I'll let you know where things go from here.

Anyway, I may not be out of the woods, but at least I feel like I am making firewood.

Many Thanks

 

[JC-jetro]

Do you know when the internal lift arm was as far as spline location when you dropped the external lift arm down prior to disassembly? if so , then did you duplicate the same angle (spline) after you fished out the internal arm?

JC,

 

[jinman]

Do you know when the internal lift arm was as far as spline location when you dropped the external lift arm down prior to disassembly? if so , then did you duplicate the same angle (spline) after you fished out the internal arm?

JC,

JC, I agree with you on most everythng, but this one has me scratchin' my head. I just don't see why the spline position matters. After you get the shaft in the lift lever, you run it to the top position and put on the lift arms. What could possibly be wrong with that? Maybe it's the upper limit sensing mechanism that has to be located in a specific position. I just don't know and I'd love to know what it is that could possibly be out of position. Is there anything keyed? I don't think so. Enquiring minds want to know. . . .