Broken Starter Key extraction

[cgraham]

I hope someone here can help me with extraction of a broken key. I'm told the same key commonly operates a lot of different tractors, so info about other brands may be helpful.

My knee often catches the key of my LB1914., causing it to bend or turn to off position (the tractor keeps running), or fall out (I added a string and a ring that goes over the throttle lever to prevent loss).

I have straightened it many times and it finally broke off, just far enough back in the lock I can't grab ahold of it. (Lesson learned, replace compromised key before it breaks.)

I have read up _extensively_ on extracting broken keys, but the Kioti key fits so snugly that I have not been able to slide any improvised extraction tool (or even a very fine wire) in alongside it (could be due to lack of experience or of the right tool).

The only other realistic approach is to Superglue the key head to the key stub and pull it out, but the danger is of glue fouling the lock completely, so that will be a last resort when the only remaining alternative is removing/replacing the ignition lock. Can the key blade be removed once the switch is taken out?

The tractor starter solenoid can be jump started successfully, and the tractor runs fine, because a screwdriver will turn the starting switch to the position that activates the glow plugs (but seemingly not beyond - I can't remember if one has to push the key in to move on to the "Start position). However, the Owner's Manual darkly warns of damage to the electrical system if the tractor is run in this condition: I don't know WHAT can be damaged when the charging system and electrical accessories are not operational, and I have run many hours with the key unknowingly in the "Off" position.

I'd like to know a little more about how the lock works. Fortunately the lock is in the 'Off' position, so the key should pull right out if I can I get a grip, unless there is some mechanism to prevent the key falling out. Does this lock have any tumblers that are depressed when the key is inserted? The lock has a pair of black plastic lips on either side of the key slot - these can be depressed slightly against a spring - not sure what they do.

Anyway, the tractor has been idling all night and I need to go and get some urgent work done. I'll check back later, especially if I can add more details

Any suggestions/comments much appreciated!

C

 

[Dave M7040]

A blade from a coping saw (hand jig saw) which you grind down to reduce the overall height and with the teeth facing backwards can often be slid into the cylinder enough to have one of the teeth on the blade hook the key.
The secret is the back sloping blade tooth getting under the key. Hope my description makes sense.
Dave M7040

 

[JasG]

I have removed key stubs from industrial machinery before with a pick set (not a lock pick set). You should be able to buy a set or 4 at a hardware store. Usually you will get a 90 degree, a straight, a hook and 1 about 1/2 way between the 90 and straight. I use 2 one on the top and one on the bottom to pinch and pull the stub out. These picks go to a very fine point so you should be able to get it to dig into the top and bottom edge.

 

[kneedeep]

Replace the switch?? :confused3:

 

[DT86]

I agree with JasG on the pick set. You might think about removing the switch and putting it gently in a vice to be able to see what you are doing better.

 

[jaotguy]

try 2 large sewing needles as pry picks... one top and one bottom ....

 

[deerseeker001]

i used the pick set for removing broken key from door lock on my shop.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Since something is obviously wrong with your ignition switch, tractor shouldn't run in the off position unless you have a throttle shut off for the fuel rather than a solenoid shut off. Regardless, switches are rather cheap and can be had at an automotive parts house for about $15. You might also consider doing like I did on my Yanmar where I kept hitting it with my knee. I relocated it to the side of the steering housing rather than in front. In my case, there was a light switch on the side so I just swapped the switches. If I bumped the light switch the most that would happen was the lights would go off, but since I rarely worked at night, it wasn't an issue.

 

[cgraham]

Thank you all for the various suggestions. The tractor does employ a fuel shutoff, so it is working normally. Good idea to relocate the switch, Gary, if I have to remove it: I'll look into the possibilities. Certainly if the lock is removed that is the time to try again to find a way of removing the key (and check all the contacts while I have the opportunity, if the switch is not sealed).

I don't have good picks - time to get some, but like the coping saw blade, there is just too little clearance to get anything into the lock beside or above/below the key. I have seen many suggestions along these lines, but there just does not seem to be room for that approach.

The key looks like a very primitive design. It does have a groove or keyway along one side, but otherwise all it has are four identical rounded-off teeth, instead of a more complex pattern most keys have. This makes me think there are probably no tumblers in the lock (not sure if that is relevant as the key is in the OFF position).

Well, I sprayed silicone into the lock, so perhaps that loosened things up a bit (not that the key was hard to pull out). Time for another try.

If I am successful, I'll post my solution for the benefit of others.

C

 

[TripleR]

Moving the key is an excellent idea. We have a Massey Ferguson with a really thin key like that and have broken it a couple of times my brother used dental picks to remove it, now we just throw the key away and use a new one if it gets bent.