Brush Grubber

[the old grind]

What I'm intending on doing. Pulling from the drawbar, steady pull. According to their website, the harder the pull, the tighter it bites in.

I thought of using a pallet puller before discovering BG and have two of the small ones. (rusty loaners now) They do work, esp because the teeth swivel vs rip out as the angle of the pull changes coming out. Expect some big ones to come down onto the ROPS but you got this.

If the pipe and the slot in the pipe are sized right to the chain and the hook, my experience is it will pull tight to the brush. Dont be sloppy making the cutout for the hook.

The vid showed a slot redo to get the links to bite in vs slip on the rigging. But I'd saw/file/grind the end of of the pipe to look something like a hole saw and get a better bite?

.. even a 1/4" chain doesn't work well on stuff smaller than 1" or so, which is why I was looking into the grubber myself. The' ol pipe & chain trick works great down to about 1/2" at which point I find it usually breaks whatever it is in half ..

My little BGs will unfailingly strip the small ones too, ~1" or less. As wet noodles nothing grips well. All methods risk cutting through/off, as my scissor grapple often does when a lot of roots are tangled. 'Paint' stubs/stumps that you cut or whatever breaks too low to the ground and within 1/2 hr. I use ~50/50 42% glypho & water.

Someone mentioned wrapping the chain and I found a 5/16" great for 1' - 1 1/2" stuff but it was the wrap that made it work by starting a good foot above ground (log hitch) then wrapping below that to bunch up best and get that grip.

 

[5030]

See how it works. I bought the heavy duty one. Figured with the M9's the drawbar pull would be pretty stout in FWA. If they don't come out, I can always use the stump grinder on them as a last resort. On their website there is a person pulling it with a front end loader bucket (it's a video) and I cringed. Loaders aren't meant for that stuff. Drawbars are.

 

[1 Old Man]

I've used both the small and large grubbers. Never had either break, and I've pulled up
a lot of thorn trees. Yes, it helps tremendously to have a another hand to help. Both to
save the on/off of tractor but to keep chain tension on the grubber (which keeps the teeth
sunk into trunk) until you start the lift or pull. I used the small grubber to pull concrete form
stakes my contractor left behind or missed. Easy peasy, most broken off and otherwise would
have needed to be dug out.

 

[Smokeydog]

Always good to have options. Amazed how fast any cleared land wants to grow back without mowing or grazing.

 

[Smokeydog]

Always good to have options. Amazed how fast any cleared land wants to grow back without constant mowing or grazing. The evasives like Bradford pears, privet, multiflora rose, Russian olive seem to sprout up and grow to considerable size over night. The little stuff is aggravating around buildings, fence lines, creek, ponds and side of roads. Danuser Intimdator certainly has been a work force multiplier. The design coupled with the dexterity and power of our little tractors has helped us maintain our little slice of haven.

 

[mikester]

Climbing in and out of a machine to sling chain or grabbers is a no go for me. I'm getting too old for that.

I made a skeleton bucket for my BH for the small stuff. For the bigger trees I push over with my grapple and push out by the roots. It's faster if I can do it from my cab.

I was thinking of adding some sort of hydraulic grabber to my ripper to reach in precisely and pull those tiny trees that are just a little too big to yank by hand.

 

[2manyrocks]

I through about notching teeth into the pipe puller, but honestly, it's not necessary. What is important is to use a stout pipe. Not sure that the thinwall pipe they sell today would last very long.

Years ago another member fabricated a "tree-getter" for his rear three point hitch. It was made with a series of teeth to dig into the root system and then lift it out with the rear 3pt lift. Smooth new trail with pine stumplets

 

[Smokeydog]

Climbing in and out of a machine to sling chain or grabbers is a no go for me. I'm getting too old for that.

I made a skeleton bucket for my BH for the small stuff. For the bigger trees I push over with my grapple and push out by the roots. It's faster if I can do it from my cab.

I was thinking of adding some sort of hydraulic grabber to my ripper to reach in precisely and pull those tiny trees that are just a little too big to yank by hand.

I’m with you there about getting older and needing innovative hydraulics and steel to help.

Surprised how the teeth on the Piranha bar blade skimming just above the ground grips and pulls stems <2” out of the ground with minimal ground disturbance. Many tapered V teeth are grippy. Design to help low horsepower tractors penetrate the ground. Impressive with more hp behind it.

 

[deezler]

I bought a brush grubber when I got my overgrown land. Used it about 2 or 3 times, then never again.

It was very effective at gripping a sapling and yanking it out, but its awful for work for one person. Heck even with two people, the person on the ground fighting through brush to affix the grubber to a bush or tree over and over again is not having fun.

I quickly realized that I could just bulldoze with my front loader (get a toothbar!) by myself instead, with tunes going in the noise cancelling headphones, and maybe even a cold beverage in the cupholder.

 

[5030]

ATI tooth bar here, with replaceable Tungsten Carbide teeth. Will see how the Grubber works out but for the larger ones, I just use the stump grinder. A C note isn't gonna to break me, if it did, I'd find some other 'venue' to pursue.

My philosophy is, the more tools in your toolbox, the easier it is to 'fix' things.