Brush guard that works

   / Brush guard that works #11  
RoyJackson said:
Added a 2" id pipe filled with lead and expanded metal.

Gads!! I LOVE expanded metal!!
If ya can't do it with expanded metal and/or Duct tape...just ain't worth doin'!!

Nice job..very professional looking!

Don't forget Unistrut!
 
   / Brush guard that works #12  
john_g said:
Where did you get the lead? I would like to make some front end weights


Look in the yellow pages under "Glass Stained and Leaded". Us people that make stained glass windows for a living usually have a ton or so to get rid of after a few years of work. It is easily recycled but unless you have a fork truck it is not so easy to move a barrel full it. Makes great wheel weights for the garden tractor. Make a plaster casting of the wheel, melt and pour in a DRY mould. Make sure you allow for the bolt holes because lead is not easily drilled.

And yes be careful when handling and melting. Dust from old oxidized lead is VERY easy to inhale. It is easy to melt in a cast iron ladle. The melting point is 621.5 ーF. Please do not do this indoors or with children present. Lead is a dangerous metal but common sense when working with and handling this metal is not a problem. Wash your hands well when finished and clothing should be washed separately from other laundry. Please handle with care and keep children away from lead.
Jim
 
   / Brush guard that works #13  
Did you say you leave the weight bar on while using the FEL? Seems like a good way to increase wear, decrease working capacity, etc while the loader is on.
David from jax
 
   / Brush guard that works #14  
RoyJackson said:
Added a 2" id pipe filled with lead and expanded metal.

Gads!! I LOVE expanded metal!!
If ya can't do it with expanded metal and/or Duct tape...just ain't worth doin'!!

Nice job..very professional looking!

Perferated metal is nice too. It is a thin metal plate, with holes drilled ( punched? laser cut ) all over it.

soundguy
 
   / Brush guard that works #15  
I'm curious as to what you mean about lead being difficult to drill?

I've drilled lead ingots to make bolt thru weights.

other than the metal being a tad soft?? i don't see the difficulty.

A center punch in the right area.. then steady down pressure and moderate speed... a bit of cutting oil.. really.. same setup fro drillny any metal...

I didn't see a problem???

I was only drilling 1" 1.5" and maybee 2" thick ingots..

Soundguy

JimWalch said:
Look in the yellow pages under "Glass Stained and Leaded". Us people that make stained glass windows for a living usually have a ton or so to get rid of after a few years of work. It is easily recycled but unless you have a fork truck it is not so easy to move a barrel full it. Makes great wheel weights for the garden tractor. Make a plaster casting of the wheel, melt and pour in a DRY mould. Make sure you allow for the bolt holes because lead is not easily drilled.

And yes be careful when handling and melting. Dust from old oxidized lead is VERY easy to inhale. It is easy to melt in a cast iron ladle. The melting point is 621.5 ーF. Please do not do this indoors or with children present. Lead is a dangerous metal but common sense when working with and handling this metal is not a problem. Wash your hands well when finished and clothing should be washed separately from other laundry. Please handle with care and keep children away from lead.
Jim
 
   / Brush guard that works #17  
Danno1 said:
.

It's very soft and it grabs the drill bit.

.

Might be the drill speed is too high? Maybe as the lead approaches melt point while drilling it glues onto the bit and begins to build up. Before you know it - no more drilling.

Turn the bit as slowly as possible, 50 -75 rpm probably would be good. A little oil as Soundguy likes and..........holes.
 
   / Brush guard that works #18  
Soundguy said:
I'm curious as to what you mean about lead being difficult to drill?

I've drilled lead ingots to make bolt thru weights.

other than the metal being a tad soft?? i don't see the difficulty.

A center punch in the right area.. then steady down pressure and moderate speed... a bit of cutting oil.. really.. same setup fro drillny any metal...

I didn't see a problem???

I was only drilling 1" 1.5" and maybee 2" thick ingots..

Soundguy
It is the thick pieces that are a problem. Just an inch or two not bad -but try six or eight inches .
 
   / Brush guard that works #19  
Oil usage and low speed will really help with galling and sticking.. It ain't like drilling wood for sure...

Soundguy
 
   / Brush guard that works #20  
i filled tubes with lead shot then welded the ends shut alot easier and less hazards
 

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