Rotary Cutter Brush Hog Blades

[bumperm]

Is anyone aware of a push/puller device to remove the bolts? Thanks John

To be clear, the bolts are shouldered, so when the nut is tightened up, spacing for the blade pivot part of the bolt is set - - there is no adjustment when installed to give the blades more slop to pivot more freely. What is likely making the hard to pivot is rust, dirt, and plant debris that has caught between the blade and stump jumper. Spray the blade pivot with lubricant and work the blades back and forth to loosed them.

If you plan on removing the bolts to clean and lubricate things, it's a good idea to use penetrating oil (a good one is 50/50 ATF and acetone) and let it sit for awhile before trying to remove the nuts. I bought a big 1" breaker bar and socket just for those nuts.

 

[fishheadbob]

If you can reach underneath the mower safely I would use a big hammer and see if you can get the blade to move
by hitting it on the back side of the cutting edge. Even if it moves a little the spinning force while running should
straighten the blades. I have several bush hog brand and non brand cutters. I use a 1 11/16 socket on a 3/4"
impact gun to remove the nuts. With the nut and washer off I tap on the center of the bolt with a 1" solid rod and
the bolt and blade fall off every time.

Good advice, whack it.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I have seen on at least some bush hogs that when both of the blades swing under the stump jumper they will lock together and have to be pried apart. I suspect that is what has happened to the OP's mower. He just needs to get under it and beat, pry etc. to get them apart and then they should work ok.

 

[STx]

Some of the blade bolts are reverse threaded, check that before you start putting a bunch of effort into removing them to be sure you're not tightening them instead.

 

[DFB]

Whack 'em with hammer to get them loose we get them jammed all the time.

Make sure your block and secure your equipment to be safe underneath.