Brush hog top link redux!

[Stihlrunner]

Before flaming commences, I've searched posts about chain top link and understand that is an age old debate. I would like to detail my situation and ask for advice.

I have a Jinma 284 with a 5' King Kutter rotary mower.

The problem I have is I am constantly having to change top link adjustment to keep the front of the mower from digging into the ground, then back to have the tail wheel high enough to not drag. If I back up to mow, then the tail wheel spins around, gouges into the ground and jams up the mower against the rigid top link.

My question is two-fold:

1. Is there a procedure for setting proper tail wheel height?

2. How about a chain top link instead of rigid? Most of my mowing air is flat but hilly, no major ravines but enough dips and whoops to cause the mower deck to dig in. Plus I like to back up to the edge of the bank and mow slightly up it but fear breaking top link off the tractor.

Opinions? Please don't state the well-used verse of the chain link allowing the brush hog to flip up over the operator. I don't even see that as a real possibility, consider the driveline, QA, ROPS, mower lower arms, etc would all prevent it from travelling that far. Has anybody every actually experienced that first hand?

 

[dirt ditch]

I agree that it is imposable for a 3pt mower to hit an object and flip up and smack the operator with the deck. I use a chain for the top link. Here in the sandhills the blades would always be digging in if not for the chain top link. This is the top link I made for the mower. The swivel ball is pinned to the tractor and the chain is pined through the loop in the chain.

View attachment 327287

 

[MtnViewRanch]

How is it that the front of the mower is digging in? Don't you set the height with the 3pt hitch? If the front digs in, you are going through some steeper raveens I would think. I would think that you can adjust the tail wheel so that the height matched the front. Use the chain and you should have it setup so that it follows the contour of the ground.

The ideal setup is to have a hydraulic top link with the float function in the control valve. Put the valve in float mode and you get the maximum flexibility up & down. The mower will follow the ground and you will get a more even cut.

 

[TripleR]

For proper setup, if you don't have the manual, download one from another brand and follow it, it will explain leveling deck, front to back adjustment as well as top link and tail wheel setting. Yes it is possible to set one up properly without using chains, not that there is anything wrong with that, I just don't see it solving your problem.

I agree with MtnViewRanch as to the ideal setup, I just wasn't thinking and didn't get a float valve on mine, so I have to live with it.

 

[jeff9366]

I have a Jinma 284 with a 5' King Kutter rotary mower.

The problem I have is I am constantly having to change top link adjustment to keep the front of the mower from digging into the ground, then back to have the tail wheel high enough to not drag.

Does the Jinma 284 have functioning Position Control? If Jinma has Position Control do you know how to set it?

If tractor does not have Position Control ZERCO CHECK CHAINS are an option. Zercos have been around since the Ford 9N, 60 years, for holding up the front of implements, especially rotary cutters.

Coincidentally, your Jinma has almost the same horsepower and weight as the 1939 Ford 9N, although that has nothing to do with whether the Jinma does/does not have Position Control on the 3-Pt. I always see Jinmas described as "basic", so I am asking, rather than assuming.

Search T-B-N for ZERCO.

There are 16 threads covering check chain/ limit chain situations and hardware.

 

[Stihlrunner]

Thanks for the suggestions, guys! My Jinma doesn't have a float control and the way everything is set up, it doesn't life the the deck extremely high off the ground. Due to this, the tail wheel is never really off the ground, even during transport, unless I crank the top link way up. When I lower the top link to mow, the wheel travels along as normal, however when you reverse it spins around like a shopping cart wheel and changes the height of the deck, usually causing it to scalp the ground. Since the deck doesn't float if you go over a hill the grass doesn't get cut even as on the flats. By hill, I pretty much mean a gentle rise of a few inches.

 

[jeff9366]

Limit Chains are your solution mowing in forward direction. The limit chains control your cut height. I normally cut at 1-1/2", after front of deck is chain-maintained at the height you want, set tail wheel so rear of deck is about 1" higher, ie: 2-1/2" in "normal" operation. Use (right) adjustable lift arm to level cutter deck left-to-right. Chop.

For heavy cutting it is best to push over brush with FEL, then have the cutter chop as it passes over knocked down brush in succession. One pass moving forward.

Your expectations for mowing in reverse may be TOO HIGH. Reverse is more for precision work around trees, boulders, etc.

There is nothing wrong with having some tail wheel ground contact during transport. Ground support under tail wheel markedly reduces strain on the 3-Pt. hitch and implement frame. You won't wear out that laminated rear wheel.

Advise is from my experience. Others may have different opinions based on their equipment and conditions.

 

[TripleR]

Thanks for the suggestions, guys! My Jinma doesn't have a float control and the way everything is set up, it doesn't life the the deck extremely high off the ground. Due to this, the tail wheel is never really off the ground, even during transport, unless I crank the top link way up. When I lower the top link to mow, the wheel travels along as normal, however when you reverse it spins around like a shopping cart wheel and changes the height of the deck, usually causing it to scalp the ground. Since the deck doesn't float if you go over a hill the grass doesn't get cut even as on the flats. By hill, I pretty much mean a gentle rise of a few inches.

So you are saying you don't have a position control 3PH?

 

[Larro Darro]

The rear wheel assembly is designed to lift the mower while backing. If the wheel itself is gouging the grass, check the shaft for wear. And always keep it greased.
I used to use a bush hog at a golf course with the rear wheel removed. We went very slow and cut the roughs with it. On the steep hillsides, it was the only mower we could use. You had to really pay attention to the lift as the land rose and fell.

 

[Stihlrunner]

The rear wheel assembly is designed to lift the mower while backing. If the wheel itself is gouging the grass, check the shaft for wear. And always keep it greased.
I used to use a bush hog at a golf course with the rear wheel removed. We went very slow and cut the roughs with it. On the steep hillsides, it was the only mower we could use. You had to really pay attention to the lift as the land rose and fell.

The shaft is definitely worn. There is a lot of slop both up and down and sideways although it does move freely.