Brush Hogging Advice

/ Brush Hogging Advice #1  

Sarge

Bronze Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2004
Messages
96
Location
Western, NY
Tractor
B1700
When I cut the field down the rear tires flatten out the weeds and they never get cut!! Sure enough the next morning those weeds are standing right back up as if in defiance /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif any ideas??????
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice #2  
What a riot, I was just noticing the exact same thing this morning as I drove out. It doesn't always happen so it might have something to do with moisture content in the weeds and their ability to spring back? Hope someone has a solution for us /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice #3  
Drive backwards! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice #4  
Depending on the size of your BH and width of your tractor wheels... if it's practical, overlap more. The spinning blade will draw the flattened weeds up into it on your next pass.
At least that's what I do and I don't see this happening.
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice #5  
I think the damper the field the more this happens. If you cut North/South last time, cut East/West next time.

I don't normally see this problem, but I rarely cut when it's wet.
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice #6  
All of the above - except maybe that backwards thing! What kind of tires do you have? The agricultural tires are probably better in this regard, as they are narrower. I only get this if it's real long and I'm going fast, and the next cutting usually takes care of it.
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I have a B 1700 with AG tires.. I'm believing that most of the problem has to do with the moisture content. problem is that it's wetter than ever up here and you have to mow when you can.. This happening to my own field I don't mind so bad, but I mow for other people to make a little extra money and having to go back again is a no win situation for me /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif That going backwards thing is not completely out of the question yet /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice #8  
When conditions cause that situation here I've found that overlapping my cut and slowing my ground speed helps some. Slows the cutting time considerably but has a better result.
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice #9  
I tried mowing for other people to "make some extra money" but couldn't charge enough to make any extra. I figured $50 per hour for actual cutting time, which didn't include a charge for hauling the tractor/cutter to the site. What do you figure you need for making it pay?

When I cut my own, I know there are not any obstacles to puncture tires and wreck blades and gear box, etc. But in foreign territory, I have found all kinds of surprises. One was pretty costly and I had to eat that myself.

I overlap enough to pick up the tire trampled grass, as well as keep the rpm up, ground speed down, and mow low to the ground. Helps that the blades are sharp too, and not too wet (as others say) so the cut grass doesn't build up under the deck, restricting the air flow that is needed to draw the grass up into the cutting line.
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice #10  
Some adjustment may be needed on your toplink to make sure the cutters is running at the correct pitch. Your manual should show a picture of initial settings--We run a little higher in the rear, but not much. This helps keep the discharge out the back and gets the most suction effect from the spinning blades---Ken Sweet
Sweet Farm Equipment LLC *New hay tedders, disc mowers and sickle mowers*
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice #11  
Everyone is right on target, but from what I've seen, wet ground is the worst offender. If th etires rut even a tiny bit, it can cause the weed stems to crush more than if no rutting at all. I suppose loaded tires could also contribute a little to the problem.

There's nothing like a front mower deck. I bet some day most finishing mowers and even brush cutters will be front mounted. I don't guess that will be any day soon though.
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice #12  
I'd echo what Gatorboy has to say. Instead of cutting in rounds, cut in inlands. Overlap your cuts and make sure you're not running wheels over stuff that's already been crushed. I just dropped an acre of 6 foot canary grass. Took my first pass with the cutter as high as it would go just to make things managable and prospect for big rocks, then dropped it right down on my second go 'round. This was really, really rough, sloping ground full of potholes and all kinds of other surprises. I don't know if it was scarier the first time not knowing what was in there, or the second time, after I did. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Don't own a rake or tiller. If anyone has any suggestions about what to do with all this trash...
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice #13  
I agree with Freds.. try setting the tires in a bit and/or overlap 6" on your cut..

Soundguy
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice #14  
What i have done on my MF-135 with a 6ft BH is I widened the front and back tires to strattle the outside edges of my BH and I mow one direction then turn and come back where I last cut leaving my tires on the outside of the grass. The BH blades lift the grass that I previously smahsed down the last pass. It seems to work well unless the grass is extremely wet or it's that #%*@ johnson grass, that stuff doesn't seem to cut well at all (burning late Feb. early March seems to work best). Also with the tires widened it adds much greater stability on hillsides and embankments. The easy way would be to lower your BH so it cuts low and cuts everything.
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice #15  
And on a slightly related note. I found if I disconnect my toplink and driveshaft, I can pivot the brush hog with a chain hoist, throw another chain on for safety and I have a real accessable set of blades to touch up with the angle grinder.

It almost cuts like a finish mower when the blades are sharp,
but they don't usually stay sharp terribly long. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Curt
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice #16  
No, they don't, but dull blades really increase the HP requirement. And after you trim enogh rocks, it seems a 4" angle grinder just doesn't do the trick for sharpening anymore either!

In this case though, I'm thinking it's mostly long weeds and wet soil.
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice #17  
Not that I have all the ant mounds and rocks fairly cut off level after my first couple years of mowing my extended pasture.. I've found i can keep my blades about as good as lawnmower blades and they will almost produce a 'shaggy' finished lawn cut... I never expected that quality from a brush cutter.

Soundguy
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice #18  
Try mowing clockwise (right turns) and overlap your tracks from the previous pass. This puts the retreating blade over the grass your tires pushed down on the last pass and will pull it back up quite well, especially with up-turned blades.
 
/ Brush Hogging Advice #19  
Sarge, I did that today. I cut a field that had grown pretty tall due to a lot of rain last week and week before. A lot of the stuff was smashed down and not cut. What I've always done is to vary the way I cut. I start cut in squares going clockwise, and then counterclockwise and then diagonally. With the cross trips to cut each section, I end up running the opposite way over the left overs which usually have lifted some by the time I get back to them. John
 
 

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