I have a John Deere 4520 with a 6' Woods BB72 mower on the back. I've been mowing fields for more than 20 years and have Never had this problem. Whenever I mow a field, that mower leaves clumps of cut grass. I had a 6' Bush Hog that I used and readily liked until the slip clutch didn't slip once and it got completely destroyed. That never left clumps like this Woods does. I'm mowing in the same gear, doing everything The same but getting clumps. Should I remove that plate in the back to let the cut stuff out? This really bugs me. Any ideas?
Brush hogging
- Thread starter dp045
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Midniteoyl
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Try making sure the rear is ~1" higher than the front first, but removing that plate would let the grass fly if needed.
jeff9366
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When was the last time the blades were sharpened?
Is the mower tail wheel in continuous light contact with the ground, or bouncing in and out of ground contact, discharging on the lifts?
The deck of your Woods mower may be somewhat deeper than the deck of your previous mower. Try making the rear of the mower 2" higher than the front of the mower.
Is the mower tail wheel in continuous light contact with the ground, or bouncing in and out of ground contact, discharging on the lifts?
The deck of your Woods mower may be somewhat deeper than the deck of your previous mower. Try making the rear of the mower 2" higher than the front of the mower.
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jeff9366
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CREDIT: "pmbutter" March 18, 2019
"There is a lot of contradictory information about which paired holes to use for the tractor/inboard end of the top link.
The inboard end of your TPH Top Link pins through operator choice of three or four paired, vertically stacked holes on the tractor.
The top holes give the least elevation change of the tail wheel, but better maintains parallelism with the ground.
An earth turning plow ought to be in one of the upper holes, so it remains at a proper working angle, regardless of its depth.
The bottom holes provides the greatest elevation change of the "tail wheel" of my "implement", but it also the greatest angular change relative to the plane of the ground.
The bottom holes are best for something like a landscape rake where you might want to lift it up and out of the way, perhaps with a little more angle so trash drops off the tines."
RELEVENT VIDEO:
I have had 3 different rotary mowers, a 5 ft Bush hog squealer, a Rhino SE 6, both light duty, and a new, medium duty 5 ft Bush hog. I used the first one on my Ford 8n (which I still have) an a Ford 2000. It always made a neat cut.
When I upgraded to a John Deere 4120 (identical to your 4520 but with different fuel flow adjustment), I got the 6 ft Rhino, because the 5 ft Bush hog squealer seemed just a little too narrow to match the tractor's width.
I had the Rhino about about 15 years until the gear box wore out. I was never happy with the cut quality from that mower. My fields looked much neater when I cut them with the Bush hog.
That was the main reason I went with another Bush hog brand when i replaced it. I went with a 5 footer so that i could use it with my 8n in a pinch, and the medium duty mower runs lower rpms so it needs a little more torque than a 6 ft light duty.
The fact that the mower is an inch or so narrower than my 4120 has not hindered me, and my fields are looking much neater again after I cut. I would be willing to pay double for a Bush Hog, over any competitors mower, because I know it will give me a neat cut.
When I upgraded to a John Deere 4120 (identical to your 4520 but with different fuel flow adjustment), I got the 6 ft Rhino, because the 5 ft Bush hog squealer seemed just a little too narrow to match the tractor's width.
I had the Rhino about about 15 years until the gear box wore out. I was never happy with the cut quality from that mower. My fields looked much neater when I cut them with the Bush hog.
That was the main reason I went with another Bush hog brand when i replaced it. I went with a 5 footer so that i could use it with my 8n in a pinch, and the medium duty mower runs lower rpms so it needs a little more torque than a 6 ft light duty.
The fact that the mower is an inch or so narrower than my 4120 has not hindered me, and my fields are looking much neater again after I cut. I would be willing to pay double for a Bush Hog, over any competitors mower, because I know it will give me a neat cut.
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jeff9366
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Purchasing implements I often favor the brand which invented the implement......which is Bush Hog for Rotary Cutters.
In this case I am uncertain, not negative but uncertain. Bush Hog has been sold to new owners three or more times in the last fifteen years.
In my experience most business sales result in a great deal of workforce turnover at every level after the new owners get a close look at the (correct) numbers in the balance sheet, which may be a year.
In this case I am uncertain, not negative but uncertain. Bush Hog has been sold to new owners three or more times in the last fifteen years.
In my experience most business sales result in a great deal of workforce turnover at every level after the new owners get a close look at the (correct) numbers in the balance sheet, which may be a year.
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cathy liebchen
Platinum Member
Brown makes the best cutter
ZetorSteve
Silver Member
I have a BB84 and it will leave clumps if the rear plate it installed on the back. Same with my landpride RCR1872. The cutter can't discharge the material fast enough so it balls it up and spits it out in clumps. Remove the plate and you should have the result you are looking for.
ptsg
Super Member
I agree with the others on taking that plate on the back of the mower. It doesn't even make sense to me why would they use a plate on an area where the material needs to come out..
If you see that it's throwing stuff way too far or to the point of being too dangerous, build a chain skirt for it.
If you see that it's throwing stuff way too far or to the point of being too dangerous, build a chain skirt for it.
