Grapple Brush Raker Grapples

   / Brush Raker Grapples
  • Thread Starter
#11  
For simple cleanup of debris I agree there are advantages to wider grapples than the 48. The 48 shines when actually digging brush out, moving stumps etc. Still, I have never wished my 48 was wider even when just loading up cut brush. The stuff sticks together so I can easily get 8 foot wide loads of the the stuff grappled for transport.

Your loader is about the same as mine so you'll have no trouble lifting a full load of brush regardless of grapple weight simply because brush doesn't weigh much. If you get around to moving stumps and rocks though you'll appreciate a lighter grapple.j

You might consider just using rear remotes initially to control the grapple. You can get up and running for less than $100 using a couple of hoses and a few quick connect fittings (reusable if you move up). I used rear remotes on my first tractor and now have a perfectly fine WRLong diverter valve but honestly I don't think the diverter has increased speed or productivity over the rear remote. Caveat is that the rear remote control must be easily reached without looking.

Might have a couple decent sized stumps to move. No rocks here bigger than a softball. Digging out brush/small stumps????? Yes, would like do some of that.

Need to research a bit more and get some more quotes. The comparable 60" dual jaw Brush Raker and WRLong grapples were quoted to me right around $2500 each.

The Elec over Hyd valve is a bit expensive (I think it was around $600..). Will just use my rear remote (the control is right next to the loader joystick).

Thanks for the info/input. Will advise on what I decide.
 
   / Brush Raker Grapples #12  
Dual jaws are really not needed unless you are in the six foot size range IMO. Just increases cost and weight. Stumps are easily managed with one as is brush. Maybe for cut firewood they would be needed but you can just use a standard bucket for that anyway.
 
   / Brush Raker Grapples #13  
This was probably about the max. load for mine.
 

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   / Brush Raker Grapples #14  
I tend to agree with Island Tractor on the width issue (I have the 48" Gator), but I also don't think the wider one would have been a mistake, unless you were using it mostly for roots, stumps and boulders...or were close to your lift capacity.
I did notice that the grapple hydraulics on the Everythingattachments grapple didn't have brush shields, which my Gator does.
I have slightly twisted the grapple on my Gator, either by picking up a very heavy, assymetrical load or (more likely) by clamping down on a tree diagonally and dragging it through the woods.
BOB
 
   / Brush Raker Grapples #15  
I did notice that the grapple hydraulics on the Everythingattachments grapple didn't have brush shields, which my Gator does.
I have slightly twisted the grapple on my Gator, either by picking up a very heavy, assymetrical load or (more likely) by clamping down on a tree diagonally and dragging it through the woods.
BOB

1) I thought I saw a plate under the hydraulic ram that protects it. It was perforated but that shouldn't be an issue and saves some weight. The hoses looked pretty well protected too.

2) I've twisted my upper grapple arm in the past too when dragging a very large tree. Doesn't affect function. I took it off during the winter and had a local garage heat and straighten it. Works fine. Grapples are meant to work not look pretty so I treat it like a bush hog and shrug off the dents and bends so long as they don't interfer with proper function.
 
   / Brush Raker Grapples #16  
I've twisted my upper grapple arm in the past too when dragging a very large tree. Doesn't affect function. I took it off during the winter and had a local garage heat and straighten it. Works fine. Grapples are meant to work not look pretty so I treat it like a bush hog and shrug off the dents and bends so long as they don't interfer with proper function.

IslandTractor,

I've read many of your posts and you always push the benefits of smaller, lighter grapples for CUTs, stating that CUTs don't have the power to need a heavier built grapple. But I would respectfully disagree. Even your own experience has shown that lighter grapples are easily bent and damaged. I've been researching, what hopefully will be a grapple purchase in the near future, for several months now. I know from personal experience how powerful my tractor is (43hp MF) and I've already bent my supposedly heavy duty bucket. I'm extremely concerned that if I get a 'light duty' grapple, it will be destroyed in no time at all. To me, bending tines and then just straightening them out, is not acceptable. Although expensive, I've been looking more and more seriously at the Anbo grapples, because of the type of steel they use. Honestly, chosing a grapple is turning out to be more difficult that chosing which tractor to buy!!!!
 
   / Brush Raker Grapples #17  
IslandTractor,

I've read many of your posts and you always push the benefits of smaller, lighter grapples for CUTs, stating that CUTs don't have the power to need a heavier built grapple. But I would respectfully disagree. Even your own experience has shown that lighter grapples are easily bent and damaged. I've been researching, what hopefully will be a grapple purchase in the near future, for several months now. I know from personal experience how powerful my tractor is (43hp MF) and I've already bent my supposedly heavy duty bucket. I'm extremely concerned that if I get a 'light duty' grapple, it will be destroyed in no time at all. To me, bending tines and then just straightening them out, is not acceptable. Although expensive, I've been looking more and more seriously at the Anbo grapples, because of the type of steel they use. Honestly, chosing a grapple is turning out to be more difficult that chosing which tractor to buy!!!!

In some cases you could pay twice as much and likely never bend it. Or...you could pay half as much and IF you bend it you could replace it after a few years with the savings and gains realized on your invested difference. Depends on how often you use and how hard you are on equipment. Tough call. :thumbsup: :laughing:
 
   / Brush Raker Grapples #18  
i have a 60" frontier it weighs about 480# works great on brush piles but any thing heavier and i prefer to put on the backhoe. i paid 1650 from my dealer very happy withn its performance .
 
   / Brush Raker Grapples #19  
IslandTractor,

I've read many of your posts and you always push the benefits of smaller, lighter grapples for CUTs, stating that CUTs don't have the power to need a heavier built grapple. But I would respectfully disagree. Even your own experience has shown that lighter grapples are easily bent and damaged. I've been researching, what hopefully will be a grapple purchase in the near future, for several months now. I know from personal experience how powerful my tractor is (43hp MF) and I've already bent my supposedly heavy duty bucket. I'm extremely concerned that if I get a 'light duty' grapple, it will be destroyed in no time at all. To me, bending tines and then just straightening them out, is not acceptable. Although expensive, I've been looking more and more seriously at the Anbo grapples, because of the type of steel they use. Honestly, chosing a grapple is turning out to be more difficult that chosing which tractor to buy!!!!

Just to be clear, I haven't "easily" bent my light duty grapple even though I beat the crap out of it with a heavy 40hp tractor for several years. I did manage to twist the upper jaw so it is no longer perfectly straight but it works perfectly well. That happened in the fifth year of use while pushing and rolling a forty plus foot tree that I could not lift to carry. In short I was doing things that I should not have been with any grapple. Grapples are engineered and built for up and down not for resisting sideways torque forces. I imagine that if I had be using a heavier grapple the twisting forces would have been transmitted to my FEL and damaged that instead.

The only complaints I have about my 48 inch Millonzi are that the 9" bottom tine gaps allow some rocks and small brush to fall through (6 or 7" would be ideal or just intermediate short tines in the bed) and that the upper grapple jaw doesn't incorporate any protection for the hydraulic ram or hoses. I ripped a hose off once (cost about $30 to replace). The upper jaw tine tips were also poorly supported and I fixed that by welding additional gussets. Basically the upper jaw design and construction are not quite up to snuff but the bottom tines that do all the work have been fine even though they are only 3/8 mild steel.
 
   / Brush Raker Grapples #20  
I won't get into the the width argument. Keeping it on the lighter side is a good idea, IMHO for tractors up to L-series Kubotas or equivalent. Above that, the tractors are more capable and a heavier grapple is a good move, IMHO. But a difference in 50 or 100 lbs is not earth shattering, and if that makes the difference with what you are lifting, you are probably pushing your luck already.

The point I will say about grapple style is that the Gator LD or the one lynrob linked to are not the best for brush clearing. They work pretty well, but the limited grabbing area of the upper jaw and the huge open space in the grapple mean that unless you have a rather large pile of brush, it does not hold it very well. I think if brush clearing is your main task, a better style would be like this:
Bradco Skid Steer, Skidsteer, Root Rake & Grapple Universal Skid Steer Quick Attach

...where the upper jaw has a lot more contact area and pinches tighter to the base. This particular one is too heavy for a CUT, IMHO, but I am referencing an easy to find example of the style, not the exact model.

Don't get me wrong - any grapple is far better than any other common attachment at clearing brush, but there are special versions for specific tasks like this that will do better. Depends on your needs.

-Dave
 
 

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