Bucket and Dirt

   / Bucket and Dirt #11  
Cary,

I must apologize for my earlier post suggesting a way to spread those piles without buying any new equipment. :( Like a dummy, I didn't recognize that you were looking for an excuse, oops, I mean "reason", to buy some new equipment. I've been there before myself!

So I'll keep quiet about the fact that I could spread those piles by back-blading in less time than it takes you to install your bucket teeth or other special attachment.

Cary,
In all seriousness, some digging attachment might be useful, but might also make it harder to spread the dirt with your bucket (no smooth bucket edge unless you use the heel of the bucket). The digging attachment might also be useful in future projects. But the Northern Paumco Products Model# 1100-Quick Spade apparently attaches to skid loader forks. Do you have forks for your loader? I don't think this is a good idea.

In my experience, if the dirt is loose, then the loader can load it. If not, I scrape it loose by back-blading and then scoop it up. For virgin ground, if you can't easily scrape it into a loose pile, then you probably need teeth or a backhoe.

My advice: Spend your money on a 3 pt. hitch 7' back scraper blade, or a landscape rake, or save up for a 3 pt. hitch chipper, or maybe a backhoe. In my opinion, there are lots of ways to spend money that are better than trying to make a loader into a digger.
 
   / Bucket and Dirt #12  
Carykong said:
I have several piles of dirt that have become overgrown with turf and small trees. Would like to level with my TC-35DA FEL. Bucket has no teeth. Thinking about shovel attachment,listed for sale in Northern Tool or getting teeth for the bucket edge. Not much experience with landscaping; use my tractor mostly for moving building materials,brush cutting, and personal logmill operation. Suggestions? Thanks in advance,Cary

We really need to know how long the piles have been there, where they came from, and how big the "small trees" are. If the trees are just in the brush stage, it makes them a lot easier than if they are 3"-4" in diameter.

I think the Northern Tool spade is wasted money, but a toothbar is always handy for digging and clearing brush. As Ted suggests, a back blade is another good tool for working dirt.
 
   / Bucket and Dirt
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Hello Jinman,

In answer to your question, I have three piles of dirt,sandy clay, the largest pile is spoil dirt from a cattle stock pond that was created by widening the stream. This pile is at least 10 year old about 60 ft long,25 ft wide,and about the height of my ROPS. The small trees are no longer brush, I would describe approaching 3 to 5 inch diameters.

Wish to move the dirt about 50 to 60 feet away from the stock pond and spread so we can have a view of the water with natural looking incline to the water and ability to mow near the banks of the pond. thanks,Cary
 
   / Bucket and Dirt #14  
Carykong said:
I have several piles of dirt that have become overgrown with turf and small trees. Would like to level with my TC-35DA FEL. Bucket has no teeth. Thinking about shovel attachment,listed for sale in Northern Tool or getting teeth for the bucket edge. Not much experience with landscaping; use my tractor mostly for moving building materials,brush cutting, and personal logmill operation. Suggestions? Thanks in advance,Cary
I use the BX23 Back Hoe and or the BX1500 tiller to break/loosen things up with first.
 
   / Bucket and Dirt #15  
Carykong said:
Hello Jinman,

In answer to your question, I have three piles of dirt,sandy clay, the largest pile is spoil dirt from a cattle stock pond that was created by widening the stream. This pile is at least 10 year old about 60 ft long,25 ft wide,and about the height of my ROPS. The small trees are no longer brush, I would describe approaching 3 to 5 inch diameters.

Wish to move the dirt about 50 to 60 feet away from the stock pond and spread so we can have a view of the water with natural looking incline to the water and ability to mow near the banks of the pond. thanks,Cary

Well, for the dirt from the stock pond, I think it may have dried out in the middle by now.;) That kind of dirt normally takes a very long time to dry. It can also be tough to work, often approaching the consistency of concrete.:rolleyes: No doubt you have your work cut out for you. I really think you can do it with your loader and a new toothbar. but a boxblade and maybe a subsoiler to use as a single scarifier would also be handy. I would try digging around the trees to see if I could push them over. Be careful working on the mounds of course. You can also use a subsoiler as a root ripper. You never really know how tough it's gonna be until you give it a try. I believe your tractor is up to the task. You'll get some quality seat time for sure.:D
 
   / Bucket and Dirt #16  
Carykong said:
Hello Jinman,

In answer to your question, I have three piles of dirt,sandy clay, the largest pile is spoil dirt from a cattle stock pond that was created by widening the stream. This pile is at least 10 year old about 60 ft long,25 ft wide,and about the height of my ROPS. The small trees are no longer brush, I would describe approaching 3 to 5 inch diameters.

Wish to move the dirt about 50 to 60 feet away from the stock pond and spread so we can have a view of the water with natural looking incline to the water and ability to mow near the banks of the pond. thanks,Cary
You have here enough to make it really tough with just a fel even with a tooth bar.
This would be a challenge for all 3 of my BXs put together even with all these attachments for them.
BX23 FEL and BH.
BX1500 Rear tiller and Front blade .
Another BX1500 with the 3 point hitch available for other attachments.
 
   / Bucket and Dirt #17  
I think you could dig it without the toothbar but it would be slow going, at least at first. I have dug virgin clay with mine by shaving thin layers until I can get deep enough to start angling into the verticle sides of the hole and breaking bigger and bigger pieces out, then it starts going pretty quick. The real problem you have is shear volume.
I think it would be quite a daunting task for a CUT. A pile that is 25'x60'x8' is almost 450 cubic yards...that's a lot of dirt. Probably +/- 1000 bucket loads using your tractor. I would recommend saving the wear and tear on your machine and renting a dozer.
 
   / Bucket and Dirt #18  
Carykong said:
Hello Jinman,

In answer to your question, I have three piles of dirt,sandy clay, the largest pile is spoil dirt from a cattle stock pond that was created by widening the stream. This pile is at least 10 year old about 60 ft long,25 ft wide,and about the height of my ROPS. The small trees are no longer brush, I would describe approaching 3 to 5 inch diameters.

Wish to move the dirt about 50 to 60 feet away from the stock pond and spread so we can have a view of the water with natural looking incline to the water and ability to mow near the banks of the pond. thanks,Cary

I would get get some guy with a dozer and be done with it.
Bob
 
   / Bucket and Dirt #19  
Carykong said:
Hello Jinman,

In answer to your question, I have three piles of dirt,sandy clay, the largest pile is spoil dirt from a cattle stock pond that was created by widening the stream. This pile is at least 10 year old about 60 ft long,25 ft wide,and about the height of my ROPS. The small trees are no longer brush, I would describe approaching 3 to 5 inch diameters.

Wish to move the dirt about 50 to 60 feet away from the stock pond and spread so we can have a view of the water with natural looking incline to the water and ability to mow near the banks of the pond. thanks,Cary
I would get get some guy with a dozer and be done with it.
Bob
 

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