Bucket Fork Builders???

[hotiron01]

I built a set of bucket forks for my JD 3038e. I was very satisfied with the way they turned out. Now the problem. When I put them on the bucket and push down on them, I can see the bottom of the bucket twist. My thought to fix the issue is to butt a piece of 10" x 38" x 3/8 plate up to the cutting edge and weld the plate solid to the bottom of the bucket. Any thoughts on a better way to do this? The forks are made out of 4" channel that is boxed in with 1/4 flat iron. There is 42" of usable fork, and they extend 12" under the bucket. I will be standing by for ideas!!

David

 

[Chain Bender]

Here's a set I made for my L3200 w/LA524. They weren't made for pallet forks, but for picking up pine logs. There is 21" of usable length in front of the riser that goes up to the top lip of the bucket and pins in. There are two 5/8" grade V bolt that bolt each fork into the top/inside of the bucket. The bucket is 60" wide so I'd guess the forks are about 50" +/- an inch or two when on the FEL. They are made of 2X2X.250" square stock. There is a hinge pin where the riser meets the actual fork. I can tell you that one fork hung under a pine root will put that little tractor on one front tire and not bend the 2X2 tubing. They are simple to make and only take about 5 minutes to put on with an air wrench or 5.5 minutes with a socket set and box end wrench.

21" might sound a bit short, but they will pick up a 40" diameter butt. I had to build a 900# ballast bucket to help hold the rear wheels on the ground with just some 8 foot stuff I was loading Gonna give her a real test next week with some 16-18 foot cuts. I built a nice boom for the back of the tractor but at 7 feet it won;t even pick up my KK disc.

CB

 

[teg]

I built a set of bucket forks for my JD 3038e....

Got any Photos of them? Are the forks together or individual?

 

[rjmack]

kind of hard to see what the problem is without pictures.

this might help

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/193825-easy-forks.html

 

[hotiron01]

Thanks, I will try to get pictures. Just to be sure everyone understands, there is no issue with the forks. I don't have any concerns with their strength at all. My concern is with the bottom of the bucket. That is what I need to reinforce.

David

 

[hotiron01]

Got any Photos of them? Are the forks together or individual?

I will have 2 seperate forks.

David

 

[hotiron01]

This is basically the same concept I am using.

Paynes Forks Light-Duty Forks 1200-Lb. Capacity, John Deere Green, Model# PFG1200 | Bucket Accessories | Northern Tool + Equipment

David

 

[rjmack]

This is basically the same concept I am using.

Paynes Forks Light-Duty Forks 1200-Lb. Capacity, John Deere Green, Model# PFG1200 | Bucket Accessories | Northern Tool + Equipment

it looks like the problem there is that you focus the load on the bucket, rather than distributing it for maximum effect. obviously, you would have much more strength with those two forks at the outside edge of the bucket. if you want to lift heavy loads from the center area, you need a way of distributing the load.

the good news is that it can certainly be done.

 

[hotiron01]

it looks like the problem there is that you focus the load on the bucket, rather than distributing it for maximum effect. obviously, you would have much more strength with those two forks at the outside edge of the bucket. if you want to lift heavy loads from the center area, you need a way of distributing the load.

the good news is that it can certainly be done.

So if I was to plate the area with the 38" x 10" x 3/8 plate, would that be sufficient? That is the dimensions of the area between the loader arms and the flat area under the bucket. I could even plug weld it in a few places.

David

 

[rjmack]

So if I was to plate the area with the 38" x 10" x 3/8 plate, would that be sufficient? That is the dimensions of the area between the loader arms and the flat area under the bucket.

everything you add to the bucket permanently increases the weight of the bucket permanently.

what size is the machine? what is the capacity of the bucket? what is the lifting force at the bucket pins?

is adjustable fork width the issue? can you beef up the forks instead of adding permanent weight to the bucket?

if you take another look at those drawings/pics i provided, you can see how the design of the forks adds to the strength of the bucket, but only when that added strength is needed.

if you have a small machine, then you don't have a lot of lifting power to spare.

 

[teg]

This is basically the same concept I am using.

Paynes Forks Light-Duty Forks 1200-Lb. Capacity, John Deere Green, Model# PFG1200 | Bucket Accessories | Northern Tool + Equipment

David

Paynes Forks 1200-Lb. Capacity Fork Stabilizer Bar for Item# 103606 | Bucket Accessories | Northern Tool + Equipment

Attachment is a photo of the above link... Did you see the stabilizer bar on that page? That might give some strength, at least between those two points. Welding a plate would help, too.

 

[kennyd]

Stop throwing good time/money after bad...

You already have the JDQA setup so why are you messing with clamp on forks?
You can easily build your own to attach to the JDQA or get these: Artillian Tractor Attachments

You can even get them in "kit" form if you want.

 

[teg]

... Artillian Tractor Attachments...

This was a pretty cool idea... see attachment.

 

[JJZ 109]

Stop throwing good time/money after bad...
You already have the JDQA setup so why are you messing with clamp on forks?

Take from someone who's been there with clamp on forks. Waste of time and money. The bucket blocks all visibility to your target and as you found out, can do a little twisting and turning of your bucket.
Also, turning the screw in on the clamp will dent in the bottom of the bucket. If you put a piece of steel under the screw to avoid that problem, the forks will kick sideways on you if you don't hit your target squarely. Again, it's hard to hit squarely when you can't see through the bucket.

 

[hotiron01]

Stop throwing good time/money after bad...

You already have the JDQA setup so why are you messing with clamp on forks?
You can easily build your own to attach to the JDQA or get these: Artillian Tractor Attachments

You can even get them in "kit" form if you want.

I am starting to think this is the way to go. Since I already have the bottom part of the forks built, could I weld some more 4" channel at a 90 deg. angle for the uprights? Then I would just have to build the quick attach frame. Just trying to make use of what I've already done. Thanks

 

[kennyd]

I am starting to think this is the way to go. Since I already have the bottom part of the forks built, could I weld some more 4" channel at a 90 deg. angle for the uprights? Then I would just have to build the quick attach frame. Just trying to make use of what I've already done. Thanks

You would never regret that decision. Post pics of what you have for suggestions, and search some. The hooks and pins are easy to make also with angle iron and CAT3 3PH pins.

 

[ETpilot]

it looks like the problem there is that you focus the load on the bucket, rather than distributing it for maximum effect. obviously, you would have much more strength with those two forks at the outside edge of the bucket. if you want to lift heavy loads from the center area, you need a way of distributing the load.

the good news is that it can certainly be done.

rjmack,thanks for posting that picture. I am building a 16x20x10 shed and was planning on using my FEL with a boom pole to set my trusses. Looking at your picture I am now thinking of, partially, building the corners of the 4th wall and leaving the center open for truss installation. I am working alone on this shed so I have to think a lot on solo working.

hotiron01, I have a fork that looks like an H with another cross member at the end. It slips on the bucket lip, goes under the bucket and is bolted to bucket corners. Works great. Easy on easy off.

 

[rjmack]

I am starting to think this is the way to go. Since I already have the bottom part of the forks built, could I weld some more 4" channel at a 90 deg. angle for the uprights? Then I would just have to build the quick attach frame. Just trying to make use of what I've already done.

it does sound like making use of oem style quick connects makes the most sense.:thumbsup:

rjmack,thanks for posting that picture. I am building a 16x20x10 shed and was planning on using my FEL with a boom pole to set my trusses. Looking at your picture I am now thinking of, partially, building the corners of the 4th wall and leaving the center open for truss installation.

happy to help.

i put the 3 walls up and bolted them together, lightly braced the sidewalls as there was no wind, set the trusses at the back, set the 4th wall as one piece, and then walked the trussed out by hand.

i also threw in a pic of the gable solution. managed to build this, just me and my tractor.

 

[JJZ 109]

i also threw in a pic of the gable solution. managed to build this, just me and my tractor.

Great idea, building the ladder for your overhang first, and then enclosing the end while everything is on the ground.
Much easier to access and no climbing around a dozen times like you would if you had set the gable end in place and then had to build your eave.

 

[ETpilot]

happy to help.

i put the 3 walls up and bolted them together, lightly braced the sidewalls as there was no wind, set the trusses at the back, set the 4th wall as one piece, and then walked the trussed out by hand.

i also threw in a pic of the gable solution. managed to build this, just me and my tractor.

Thanks for the rest of the pictures and added info. I was thinking of doing something similar on the end trusses.