Bucket Hooks/Hitch/Level Indicators

[JB4310]

12K D-rings welded to the bottom of the frame for transport.

That's a great idea, I have a heck of a time getting a chain/strap around my front axle with out booggering everything up.

 

[whiteh2o]

JB4310,

You gave me the idea about the top mount tube. I saw your posts and thank you for sharing. I just went another way, that's all. I really enjoyed looking at your posts!!!

Regards!

 

[whiteh2o]

JB4310, I and a couple of friends that had to laugh about the redneck dump....that makes me laugh now, because, they gave me crap about building one of those. (I have it in mind...ha).

 

[JB4310]

JB4310,

You gave me the idea about the top mount tube. I saw your posts and thank you for sharing. I just went another way, that's all. I really enjoyed looking at your posts!!!

Regards!

Yea, the one negative about the top mounted receiver tube would be like you mentioned, the low trailer tongue couplers, especially on uneven ground I do catch the cutting edge trying to keep it low enough to keep the trailer level, but I figured if it really became a problem I would just get a lower drop down ball insert.
Glad you got a kick out of the hillbilly dumper, I definitely didn't invent that idea!!! I've got a legit dump trailer now but that set up worked for what I needed at the time.

This pic shows how low the bucket has to be for that low trailer.

 

[whiteh2o]

Ditzel,

Hows your project coming along?

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

those are some darn good ideas!

thanks

I bought the weld on hooks but never used them I just got a receiver tube welded to a piece of angle iron and bolted it on, the reason I bolted it on was because I wasn't sure how it would work out, that was three years ago before every one started doing it (not saying I was the first) so I hadn't heard any positive feed back.

Now I would just weld it on because there is no reason to remove it, it's really the most simple useful thing you can do, jockeying trailers, hooking ropes, cables or chains, even made a gin pole.
I don't think you need the hooks once you have the receiver, with the hooks on the sides you have to use both to get an even load, with the center mounted attachment you have that solved, at least in my case I have never once wished I had the welded hooks, but couldn't live without the receiver tube.

JB,

 

[ditzel]

Here is the results. Definately not the prettiest welds, but they work.

 

[AchingBack]

Here is the results. Definately not the prettiest welds, but they work.

ditzel, as others have pointed out on these forums, when you don't have your hooks in line with your loader arms, you run the risk of doing severe damage caused by twisting them.

 

[whiteh2o]

Ditzel, just modify it like you did. Peoples opinions are just like azz holes, everyone has one including me. If that config works for you go for it!!! Just make sure you use a chain across both hooks if it's a large pickup. Don't use just one. I wouldn't even use one hook attached to the loader arms. I would wrap a chain around both.

Thanks for the post and I didn't mean to hijack it.

Regards,

Marty

 

[ditzel]

Too late! those hooks are now permanent. I cant see them being a problem if I picked something up using both outer hooks cause then each hook is only carrying 50% of the load. Not to mention I beefed up the front upper edge with a piece of angle iron the entire length. And if I need to pick up something really heavy I can use all 3 hooks.

 

[whiteh2o]

Next project. Redneck grinder. A buddy gave me the scrap semi rims. The brake drums are a dime a dozen. Need to find the 3 - 6" scrap pipe and bingo...

 

[JB4310]

Looks good to me, If your using 2 hooks at once I don't see how position matters, if you want to use one hook, just use the center one. With out board hooks I don't think you would ever want to use just one. Good idea with the angle iron, that should stiffen it up, what are the other 2 pcs of angle for? and what is your loaders lift capacity.

 

[AchingBack]

and what is your loaders lift capacity.

SPECS ML106
Attachment rated capacity used for specification 7.3 cu. ft.
Attachment Rollback Angle 19ｰ
Attachment width used for specification 60"
Breakout Force @ Pivot Pins 2172 lbs.
Clearance with Attachment Dumped 79"
Cycle Times @ rpm 2900 rpm
Digging Depth Below Grade 2.9"
Dump Attachment (seconds) 1.9
Lift Capacity to Full Height @ Pivot Pins 1050 lbs.
Lower Boom (seconds) 2.2
Maximum Dump Angle 39ｰ
Maximum Lift Height 96.5"
Raise Boom (seconds) 2.8
Rated Flow (Tractor System) 7.8 gpm
Reach at Maximum Height 28"
Retract Attachment (seconds) 1.9

 

[Dargo]

Ditzel, just modify it like you did. Peoples opinions are just like azz holes, everyone has one including me.

So do the manufacturers. Most manufacturers I know will void your loader warranty if you've improperly welded hooks on the outer edges of your loader bucket. They'll be quite blunt and tell you that they don't care that you say that you have never used just one hook. If you twist your loader, very likely with hooks set out there, your warranty will be void. BTW, I wouldn't advise telling your tractor manufacturer that you think their "opinion" of where to attach lift and grab hooks are like what you say.

It's a matter of geometry and design. They employ and pay people far smarter than me to tell them exactly how the loader arms can be used, what pressures and stresses they can handle, and where it is appropriate to use maximum lifting forces. I'd suggest you take up your "azz" discussion with the engineers employed by the various tractor manufacturers, not the guys posting here trying to offer help and sound advice.

 

[DMF]

The dealer welded my hooks on the bucket when I bought the tractor....on the outside edges. I've pulled and lifted for six years with it, many times with only one hook and at the very best with one of the two seeing more load than the other. Either I've been extremely lucky or being 8" outboard of where my loader arms mount isn't far enough to go beyond whatever safety factor was designed into the system...

Picture is kind of lousy but here it is:

 

[Dargo]

Having seen what I've seen on tractors where I've relocated improperly placed hooks, I'd not have much faith in that dealer; sorry. It really isn't a good idea mounting hooks outside the lift arms. Personally, I'd have them relocated to a proper position even if you don't plan on keeping the tractor. Please don't take this wrong, but it's your tractor and do with it what you please.

It's sort of like using the wrong tool for a job. You can get by with it a lot of the time but sooner or later it's going to break. As expensive as tractors are, I'd not put strain on my loader that I knew it was never intended to take. A hook on the far outside of a bucket really torques the loader arms as well as the loader frame itself. But, there again, I didn't pay for your tractor and I won't have to pay to fix it if it breaks from improper loader use. I have a neighbor who hauls a 12k goose neck trailer with a 1/2 ton pickup. So far he hasn't paid the price but the odds really aren't in his favor.

 

[JB4310]

The dealer welded my hooks on the bucket when I bought the tractor....on the outside edges. I've pulled and lifted for six years with it, many times with only one hook and at the very best with one of the two seeing more load than the other. Either I've been extremely lucky or being 8" outboard of where my loader arms mount isn't far enough to go beyond whatever safety factor was designed into the system...

Picture is kind of lousy but here it is:

Yea, I really don't see the problem here, except the stability of the tractor using just one side. I don't have the weld on hooks I went with the center mounted receiver partly because my lift capacity is 1500 pounds and I figured why would I want to have to attach to 2 hooks for that little weight, most of these CUTs can only lift 1200 - 1800 pounds, and though you wouldn't want to lift that much from 1 side for the tractors stability sake.

 

[whiteh2o]

I googled CUT and didn't find it. Should I be afraid to ask?...ha something utility, tractor? Kind of like New Holland making 'Boomers' because the baby boomers can afford them now...ha

 

[DMF]

Hey Dargo,

I understand your point but it might not be as bad as you make it out to be. I use the edge of my bucket to pry rocks out of the ground all the time. I use the corner of the bucket so I can see what I am doing. Often I exceed the break out point as I can't dig them out all the time. To me this is no different than hooking to the top corner. My comment about the system is, if designed properly, pulling, digging, hooking from an extreme corner should not exceed the safety factor; in other words, the hydraulics will fail to lift before you reach the point where you should wreck something. IF the system is properly designed! I have a Massey Ferguson, so I am a little more confident in the design...

I think the worse strain I put on my loader arms is using a 7 1/2' plow to move snow in the winter. With that I am adding significantly more leverage than the 8" my bucket extends past the loader arm mounts.

Would it be better to have the hooks above the loader arm points; no doubt. Is it a big problem where they are? Probably not. BTW, that dealership has been around for several generations serving a large area of farmers; if they'd been mounting them incorrectly they'd have heard about it by now.

 

[Bedlam]

Ive had mine on the outside on three different tractors in 30 plus years, All I've ever found is that the tractor will raise the opposing wheel up and try to tip over.I us the center hook mainly all the time but the side ones usually if its easier to get to and not much strain. I like them mostly to hook straps on them to hold stuff in the bucket.
If I had a choice where to mount them , Id give up the 3 or so inches and put them in-line. But If you respect it your usually in good shape
Al