Bucket issues

[Teachu2]

I felt the need to exit right quickly from my DS3510 one day, and broke the aluminum bracket on the joystick assembly. Had to manually activate the valves to get the bucket up and get the tractor out of the hole it was in. Instead of buying a new valve assembly (individual part not sold by itself) I fabbed a replacement - but had no float detent. I used it for a year that way, until I wanted a grapple. I bought a huge joystick valve assembly from Surplus Center (sponsor here at TBN) with a third function built in.

In the process of plumbing that bad boy, I was at a local hydraulic shop. I mentioned the detent issue to the counter guy, and he said that was an easy fix. Said they could do it for $40 - their minimum labor charge. I didn't pursue it, as I was replacing the unit anyway. If you have a hydraulic shop nearby, you could take it there.

Or replace the whole thing with a new unit. 2 Spool 12 GPM Joystick Loader Control Valve | Joystick Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

 

[Billybob69]

You need to remove the spool cap on the far side of the valve body from the joystick. The float spool controller will be the longer of the 2 spool caps. In the cap, there will be 3 ball bearings that engage is a slot in a spool washer. If the washer gets warn, the bearings won't lock in the groove. Often, you can spin the washer so the bearings have a fresh lip to lock in and re-assemble the spool cap. Make sure you grease the bearings and spring well before assembly. The grease will keep the 3 bearings in the holes at the end of the spool controller.

Hope this helps,

When you say spool cap, do you mean parts 1-10 and 1-6 in the diagram below?


(This isnt exactly like my valve body but the it gave me reference for another part I needed for the joystick itself.)

 

[Teachu2]

Here's what I went to.

 

[Billybob69]

I felt the need to exit right quickly from my DS3510 one day, and broke the aluminum bracket on the joystick assembly. Had to manually activate the valves to get the bucket up and get the tractor out of the hole it was in. Instead of buying a new valve assembly (individual part not sold by itself) I fabbed a replacement - but had no float detent. I used it for a year that way, until I wanted a grapple. I bought a huge joystick valve assembly from Surplus Center (sponsor here at TBN) with a third function built in.

In the process of plumbing that bad boy, I was at a local hydraulic shop. I mentioned the detent issue to the counter guy, and he said that was an easy fix. Said they could do it for $40 - their minimum labor charge. I didn't pursue it, as I was replacing the unit anyway. If you have a hydraulic shop nearby, you could take it there.

Or replace the whole thing with a new unit. 2 Spool 12 GPM Joystick Loader Control Valve | Joystick Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Great info! I know where I will go if I get lazy or screw up the repair.
And looking more...I have wanted to add another option for the front...$400 for a 3 spool isn't bad at all. Hmmmmm
OK Fix first...then upgrade.
Thanks!

 

[Teachu2]

 

[MichiganIron]

Yes, the spool cap is similar to 1-6 in your picture. The longer cap is the float cap. Be careful not to loose the ball bearings when you remove the cap!!

 

[Teachu2]

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...d-out-fel-valve-got-2.html?highlight=joystick

 

[Billybob69]

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...d-out-fel-valve-got-2.html?highlight=joystick

Thank you! Great info! Time to start planning.

 

[Billybob69]

Yes, the spool cap is similar to 1-6 in your picture. The longer cap is the float cap. Be careful not to loose the ball bearings when you remove the cap!!

Thank you for the info!! And the diagram I posted was from your site. Go figure! Looks easy enough. I should be able to do this without burning down the shop. I will hang a magnetic bowl under the cap so if anything drops, it will catch. I assume to expect a little fluid drain but nothing to have to refill or should i also get some extra fluid to refill?

Thanks for all the info!

 

[Billybob69]

Ok ... so I took off the cap...no bearings. No washer... I removed it slowly and nothing but the spool came out. Couldn’t see that well into the valve body but the spool looked good. Nothing seemed to be wearing abnormally... at least from my point of view. So I reassembled to spool and cap..still a very week hold for the float position. Then I thought of what you mentioned about turning the washer. So I disconnected the joystick from that one spool and turned the spool 180 degrees and reassembled. Float is working great again. So...either the bearings and washer stayed inside the body. And being very careful with it, they didn稚 move. So turning the spool gave it a less worn area for the bearings. Or...just a different spool. Either way... it is working again. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!