Backhoe Build A Backhoe For PT425... It Could Happen

[Highridge]

Here's a pic of how it's done on my minihoe. It works good. All you need is an adjustable wrench to take off the nut.

 

[J_J]

Be careful on that pin stock. True pin stock is 63/64 Both the pin stock and bushings can be found at www.metkit.com

That 1 in steel rod, could be cold rolled, hot rolled, cold drawn. and drill rod. Price varies. Hot rolled would be the cheapest.

I decided on the 1 in grade 8 bolts. 6 in at $3.95 ea. Nylon lock nuts about $1.00

4x4x1/4 square tubing cost $185 for 12 ft. You saved a lot using what you have acquired. The beefed up ends are a good idea, but you have to cut or drill through a lot of steel.

If you know anybody that does plasma, or laser cutting, those 1.5 in holes should come out perfect for your bushings. .

I cut these out with a plasma cutter with a home made wire circle cutter.

 

[J_J]

This is a sample of the laser cut parts that I purchased .

 

[BillCroasmun]

MR,
Sounds like your on your way with the plans you have but just to stir the pot a bit I have to ask the question, why not build a modified PT mini-hoe to solve the few concerns you have with it?

I'm no fabricator but it seems like it would be cheaper/easier to go down that road. Beechwood made a mini-hoe for his 180 ( here) with a more agressive angle then PT's to dig closer to the PT. And as far as the swing issue goes the QA mounting point could have a manual or hydraulic controlled swing assembly added there.

Either way I wish you luck and hope you make the best attachment for your needs! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[MossRoad]

For the type of projects that I would like to do, I think a full fledged backhoe with stabilizers will allow me to move full buckets of stuff farther away from the tractor and will require much less repositioning, VS a mini hoe. I will also be working on some retaining walls, where the longer reach of a backhoe will help with positioning rocks, landscape blocks and plants.

Trenching for septic lines, electrical hookups, water lines, etc... could add up to well over 500' of trenching 4' down or deeper, as the land is rolling hills. Believe me, I would get the mini hoe if I thought it was the right tool for what I want to do, but I think the backhoe will be the tool of choice.

 

[MossRoad]

Got my bucket and thumb built.... see attachment.... OK, just kidding. I couldn't resist taking a few pictures of this across the street from my work. But it does illustrate most of the pivot points that I will have to deal with. Good thing to keep for reference.

 

[J_J]

David, here is a picture of the backhoe laser cut parts kit. I had to purchase the square tubing locally.

 

[MossRoad]

Very nice kit. The plans I have don't call for that many parts. I'm sure it will look much more crude than yours when finished. I went and looked at band saws last night. Harbor freight had one on sale for $179.00 I may get it. I have a friend that has the same model that he bought for the same price about 25 years ago. He said it works fine for personal use.

 

[MossRoad]

For anyone wondering where I got the plans, here's the link to the page at Vintage Farm Plans. There is a link on that page that will take you to a page with two PDF files. I have downloaded them and printed them out. They are pretty darn good, for the price! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

There was only one place where I had a little trouble understanding what he was talking about VS the drawing. That is the part where you make and attach the two brackets that will attach to the end of the boom to accept the dipper stick. I thought they looked a little weak in that area as compared to the other plans that I looked at, until I went and looked at that excavator across the street. It is built the exact same way, only on a larger scale.

I am trying to decide if I want the lift cylinder under the boom or on top of the boom. Most plans have it on top of the boom. These have it under the boom. Anyone have any idea which is more advantageous?

 

[J_J]

David, you always have more push power. For example, you may have 10 ton push, but the pull will be less, something like 7 ton. Why , because the rod in the cylinder is taking up space and decreasing the volume. Cylinder on top is best in my opinion, because of the breakout force and if the cylinder is under the boom, and you fold the dipper arm first, and then try and fold the bucket, you may damage the cylinder.