build your own dirt conveyor?

[Iplayfarmer]

This discussion is starting to sound very familiar. Does anyone remember the story of Mike Mulligan and his steam shovel, Mary Anne?

Great Story.

 

[forgeblast]

We have a musical version dvr'ed my daughter watches it at least once every weekend. Great book.

 

[smiley]

We dug a cellar under a meat processing plant in the 70's using a 350 John Deere track loader. It was done in stages so piers could be installed as we went. I believe the actual digging time was about a week but it was about a 5000 sg ft building. The worst part was having to remove the muffler for clearance. We were all about deaf by the time we finished.
We hadn't finished digging the ramp when we cut a 1" cable that we quickly found out was the line that tied a local radio station next door to their tower, OOPS. They were off air the whole day.

 

[JB4310]

I've got a similar basement dig I'm considering so this thread is very timely.

JB

 

[jimmysisson]

The digging may be fun, in its own way, but shoring the footings is not so much fun, and bound to slow things down. Depending on soils type, you may not get to dig close to the walls at all.
More power to those who undertake this operation. And less to those who built a crawl space when they knew darn well someone in 60 years would want a basement.
Jim

 

[JB4310]

The digging may be fun, in its own way, but shoring the footings is not so much fun, and bound to slow things down. Depending on soils type, you may not get to dig close to the walls at all.
More power to those who undertake this operation. And less to those who built a crawl space when they knew darn well someone in 60 years would want a basement.
Jim

Mine is a caretakers house built in 1946, converted to my work shop, footprint is 20x30.
A small portion maybe 8x20 is full depth, well full means a little over 6 feet.
the rest of the foot print 22x20 is full of dirt, I was really hoping the foundation walls went down 6+ feet all around like in the deeper part, but found today they only go down 4 feet. So I would have to either dig under the walls and fill in or build some kind of curb 2+ feet high next to the fill under the walls.

Not having the full foundation walls really changes things, makes it a lot tougher, and maybe not worth the 400 sq ft of storage.

JB

 

[Hobby11]

Thank you for your time for looking at my question. I have fallen off the rocker or so my wife says but I am looking to dig out my crawl space to make a finished basement. Thankfully my father in law has a mini-track hoe and BobCat so that has reduced my costs significantly. However, in planning out the excavation of said crawl space, I figured that it would take numerous trips with the BobCat to move the dirt from under the house to outside the house. I am thinking that a type of conveyor system will help cut the number of trips down.

My question is this: Has anyone every built a dirt or other type of material conveyor from scrounged parts? If so, can you attach photos or drawings?
I am fortunate in that the company I work for has lots of scrap structural angles, channels, and the occasional tube so material the basic structure won't be a problem. My problems will be an adequate belt system (made from old tires?) and how to drive the sprockets. Any help, advice, or ideas is greatly appreicated. I have my EIT (Civil) and have already taken into account how to reinforce the joists so that I can have a clear space beneath the house (20'x40'); please don't be afraid to get technical.

In search of my next cold one,

NearBeer

Hobby11
20 years ago i and my Kids hand dug a basement under my 500 sq ft. I dug all the way up to the foundation ever one said I was crazy, thats when I know I'm on the right track. I went from 1'5" feet too 10' feet unfinished.
Now in am doing it again this time in am building a conveyor a little over 22' I am building a too story basement So good luck you can do it even 5 gallon bucket at a time. My one susgustion is get the door put in first.[SUB][/SUB]

 

[skylarkguy]

I used an old grain auger to move dirt. It clogged up a couple times when a rock or something went in but otherwise worked pretty well. I was on my belly shoveling in the soil to open up the crawl space and could keep up with it just fine. That job was pretty lousy I'd have to admit...and there is still more to do.

 

[bbw]

that's what I'm planning a bucket or two at a time! Except I started two days ago & I'm 47 years old! I'm going for broke...might just finish before I die!!! But hope to have the dirt out in 2 years. Ya'll stories are those of encouragement!

bbw
some things speak for themselves

 

[BHD]

when they hand dug basement under houses around here they used a ear corn elevator usually taken off it wheels, if your using a skid loader make a ramp and haul it out the ramp with the loader. most of this type used what was called square steel sprocket chain and the links were stamped steel that had a end curled so they could attached, special link about ever foot were used to attach the paddles to most used two chains,, and used a cast sprocket,

link to one source,
http://shop.evansimplement.com/prod...E.m1plqscsfapp04?productId=3112&categoryId=43

http://shop.evansimplement.com/prod...AE.m1plqscsfapp04?productId=983&categoryId=43

http://shop.evansimplement.com/prod...E.m1plqscsfapp04?productId=3110&categoryId=43

and you would need chain and sprockets,

some time ebay .

a place call Baum Iron carried all the stuff at one time,

http://www.baumhydraulics.com/home.php?cat=397&sort=orderby&sort_direction=0&page=2

most of the newer type of units use a roller type chain now that #550, it is what corn header chains are made out of, (if you have a neighbor or a dealership in your area that does corn, they replace the gathering chains (some every season) they have a extended part one could weld a paddle on or a bolt pad, they most like will give them to you, if not scrap iron price should get them, and pick up any replaced sprockets, you will need one on the drive end one on the idler end, I would most like make a dual drive chain, keep it running smoother, just hook them together to get the length you want.

I would drive from the top end on your project, weld on paddles or bolt pads and make paddles that will clean to the bottom of the elevator,

one can use wood or steel for the bottom of the unit, (most corn elevator enclosed the bottom of the elevator as the chain will droop and be hazard and or catch on some thing, so it is a box with a trough,

but used corn header chains would be the most economical route to take, if you want this type of unit, make the idler shaft with a lot of take up, up to 18 inches, at least 12 inches, keep the shafts parallel,

hope that helps, if you ever use them for elevating concrete wash them out very well, (the chains), power washer is best, to get the chains clean, and keep away from the moving parts when operationing.