Building a 3320

   / Building a 3320 #1  

RollTideRam

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2003
Messages
1,324
Location
Hartselle, Alabama
Tractor
Kioti DK 4710 Cab
I am ready to move up from my 2520. I have been building 3320's on the Deere website for a week now. I have a few questions about some of the options.
I know I want R4's, but which ones? I like the 6 plies, but wonder if the bigger ones will ride better. Would like to stay around 60" wide so my current implement will still cover my tracks.
I want to get the factory installed lines on the loader for my grapple, but am not sure where they connect on the tractor. I'm getting the rear scv but want to transfer my Fasse diverter from the 2520 to the 3320 for the grapple.
I plan to install a "Carter" hydraulic toplink and use the rear scv for that.
I also want front a rear worklights. I know Deere says I can't have both, Should I order fronts, and install the rears myself?
I know I'm ordering E-hydro, cruise, air seat, 300cx, fancy grill guard, 61" HD bucket toothbar. I already have a set of Pats easy change, any have the telescoping arms?
Any other suggestions? Thanks, JC
 
   / Building a 3320 #2  
Hi:

Just recently traded in my 3320 (open) for a 3720 cab. Not sure about the tires. I had the big R4's Rode ok, but they all seem pretty stiff.

The lines for the loader go to the rear - where the 3rd SCV outlets are. The 61" HD bucket is the one to go for. The air seat is a dynamite option. didn't have it on my 3320, have it on my 3720 and it's great. Get the automotive cruise as the std cruise isn't that great.

Get power to the rear. That would be better to hook up your valve to rather than the 3rd SCV.

I didn't have em on my 3320, but I got the electric diverter valves on my 3720 - Pricey, but nice. Effectively gives me control of 4 circuits from the loader joystick - Very nice.
 
   / Building a 3320 #3  
So I have a 3320 with the smaller R4 6plys. They run plenty smooth for me. I doubt I will ever change them. I have the 3rd valve and the loader lines (that I installed on my 300X myself). They are very nice for use on the front blade I bought from John, a member here on tbn. I do not have any other add on valves but the third one is handy for the 7-iron 72" MMM I use.

I added my own lights and extra switches (independednt control of front and rear lights) on the control panel myself. I put in a relay system for the lights - some would say overkill but it works great for me and no worries on drawing more amps than I should from any of the wiring. I also added into the relayed circuit a 12V cig receptical on the rear that powers my Fimco sprayer. Works great and is all controllable from the control panel on the right.

I want to add in the air ride suspension - maybe for Christmas to myself.

Get the cruis upgrade - it is super nice and the best $80 to spend on the tractor!!!

3rd valve is $200 and POwer Beyond is another $200 - may be worth it for you to get both. Add your valve to power and have 5 seat controllable circuits for about $400.
 
   / Building a 3320 #4  
If I had to do it over I'd get the skidsteer type quick attach bucket so I could mount forks & a tree spade on the loader arms.

The cab model runs lots of electrical equipment including front & rear work lights so maybe you could order the cab model alternator?
 
   / Building a 3320 #5  
DrainPondDesign said:
If I had to do it over I'd get the skidsteer type quick attach bucket so I could mount forks & a tree spade on the loader arms.
You can do that with the JD QA system:confused:
 
   / Building a 3320 #6  
You might want to consider the optional mid pto. Even if you have no plans for it now, you might in a year or two, and I think it's cheaper to do up front. I remember looking at the specs between the 6 ply R4's and the larger tire, and I seem to remember that the smaller tire had the larger weight capacity. I don't remember the difference.

Sounds like you are putting together a very nice tractor. I wish I had gotten the fancy grill guard.
 
   / Building a 3320
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I think I'll add the power beyond. I wanted it on my 2520, but dealer talked me out of it. I am getting away from mowing with the tractor, so no mid pto. If I ever get my yard smooth enough, I'll move up to a RFM and mow my yard and my parents yard at the same time. I already have a set of forks that will fit Deere QA, but that was a good idea. I'll also rethink the alternator. Thanks for the replies. JC
 
   / Building a 3320 #8  
HI all ,
Putting the Deluxe grill gaurd is a must for alot of brush mowing and just makes it look real heavy duty.I had the 3120 and traded it for a 4120 and got the same stuff as i had on my 3120 except for the front fender and rear fender Extentions And the cruise control is a must. On my 3120 I had everything but the air ride and dang it I forgot to get it on my 4120 well maybe next year.BTW get the vertical Exhaust it is sweet looking.

Matthew3120
 
   / Building a 3320 #9  
I have the smaller R4s. My reasons where 6 ply vs 4 ply, price, and there would be more clearance if I ever added tire chains. The smaller R4s should put the tractor lower to the ground by 1 inch (less tipsy, worse ground clearance). Plus they were cheaper. The tractor looks tougher with the bigger R4s though.
 
   / Building a 3320 #10  
I went with the big rear R4 just to get more liquid in the tires! And I have been real happy with them. I wish I would have gotten the HD bucket though.

cheers
 

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