Building a house addition and have a question on floor truss supprot.

   / Building a house addition and have a question on floor truss supprot. #21  
Good luck with your project. That back wall and at least some of the new sidewall will probably need to be a substantial reinforced concrete pour, engineered to be also a retaining wall.
 
   / Building a house addition and have a question on floor truss supprot. #22  
Looking at the side wall it is all brick/block construction. You can see the (likely) 12" cinder not concrete block below grade transitioning to brick backed by (probably 4") block.

I didn't see the area where the brick stopped below the old grade exposing the (dirty) block.
The concrete block should have a good footing to support the addition.
Also a common mistake is calling CONCRETE block cinder block.
Concrete block is made from concrete aggregate.
Cinder block is made from a combination of concrete and cinders which come from burnt coal usually waste from power plants.
Cider block is a medium grey color and is best used in fire walls because it has a much higher rating.
 
   / Building a house addition and have a question on floor truss supprot. #23  
I would do like eddiewalker said and just pour a footer and frame up a new wall. You already have to dig/pour a footer on the rest of the structure right. So you are already building 3 sides....just to the 4th. Treat this as a completely separate structure......that would be 100% okay to stand on its own....Then just tie it to the house.

Forget doing a 4" block and 4" stud wall to support your trusses on that end. 4" block really arent meant to stack up a wall with. And usually...8" block is cheaper
 
   / Building a house addition and have a question on floor truss supprot.
  • Thread Starter
#24  
The original idea for that support would be to pour a footer along that wall and run 4" blocks to support the floor trusses. I could go 8" for better support, just wasn't sure if there was a better way of doing this. The 16" OC floor truss was spec'd by the company building the truss. 16" OC can span 20' 6", and nce you add in the 8" block support on each side, I'll be right under a 19' span. Even if I would go 12" OC, there is no advantage according to the spec sheet. I would rather use a truss than an I joist since they are open web and I can run my wire and ductwork. I've done additions like this in the past, I just never used floor trusses before, so they are new to me. Just looking for some input.
Truss.PNG
 
   / Building a house addition and have a question on floor truss supprot.
  • Thread Starter
#25  
I was doing some research and they do but up floor trusses to other floor trusses with joist hangers without using a ledger. A ledger board would reinforce it more. The floor truss I would butt up to sits on the outside block wall of the existing house.

Ledger.PNG
 
   / Building a house addition and have a question on floor truss supprot.
  • Thread Starter
#26  
To answer another question, the new foundation will be 10" concrete blocks, grouted and rebared every 4'. The exposed front and side will be 6" concrete block, grouted and rebared every 4' and then brick faced. It will be 12 courses high. This was approved by the building inspector. Actually, the plans for the whole project were approved by the building inspector prior to getting the permit.
 
   / Building a house addition and have a question on floor truss supprot. #27  
Forget doing a 4" block and 4" stud wall to support your trusses on that end. 4" block really arent meant to stack up a wall with. And usually...8" block is cheaper

If using block only, 8" block is the way to go in that application. If you want to match the brick on the house, brick on the exterior tied with wire and ties to 4" block on the interior creating a 8" masonry structure until you transition to wood and siding. Good luck...
 
   / Building a house addition and have a question on floor truss supprot.
  • Thread Starter
#28  
I thought about going that route but am concerned about running 4" block since they aren't as stable. If I look at the original house though, that is how they did it.

If using block only, 8" block is the way to go in that application. If you want to match the brick on the house, brick on the exterior tied with wire and ties to 4" block on the interior creating a 8" masonry structure until you transition to wood and siding. Good luck...
 
   / Building a house addition and have a question on floor truss supprot.
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Then I start thinking even if I get the correct brick to match the original house, it is still not going to match perfect along with the mortar joints possibly being a different color. I thought about going with split face block for the part of the addition that will be exposed and wonder how that would look along side the brick house.
 
   / Building a house addition and have a question on floor truss supprot. #30  
You could strip off the old brick and reuse it on the front. That would give you an excellent match, even though the mortar color may be off a little.
 

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