Building a road

   / Building a road #1  

bbabineau

Silver Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2005
Messages
169
Location
Atascadero, California
I like to plan everything far in advance of the time when I start a project. My plan is to purchase a PT so I am putting this post here rather than in the project forum as I really want input specifically from PT users.

The PT will be used primarily in the rear 2 acres of my property but the storage area (read it as barn) is off to the left of the entrance road leading to the house. Rather than drive across the block drive (my wife would not like that) I plan to make a drive around the backside of the barn, around the edge of the property and to the rear where the mowing and garden will be located.

Now to my question, I want a drive approximately six feet wide and it will be some 300 feet long. (In this process I will also build a bridge across the creek and will post pictures as it is built.) It need only carry the PT and perhaps a trailer being pulled or pushed by the PT with garden materials, brush or other materials to the back lot and back.

I am looking for input on construction techniques including layout, materials to use for the surface, which attachments to use and an educated guess on the cost. The surface is currently bare ground and is fairly level. Should I excavate several inches for the road surface (how much), should I install some form of retainer along the edges, what materials should I use for the surface (road base, decomposed granite or some type of rock), what attachments would be best (rock bucket, box blade etc.), should I expect to have to vibrate the surface?

I would love to hear from those who have done a project such as this with any recommendations before I attack the project. I will add that I am currently leaning toward a 1430 although I do prefer the pricing of the 425. My leanings are prompted by the slopes of the property and the need to maintain creeks that I think will require the weight and increased slope ability of the 1430 although I would prefer the maneuverability of the 425.

Thanks in advance to the many helpful PT owners.
 
   / Building a road #2  
<font color="red"> I am looking for input on construction techniques including layout, materials to use for the surface, which attachments to use and an educated guess on the cost. The surface is currently bare ground and is fairly level. Should I excavate several inches for the road surface (how much), should I install some form of retainer along the edges, what materials should I use for the surface (road base, decomposed granite or some type of rock), what attachments would be best (rock bucket, box blade etc.), should I expect to have to vibrate the surface? </font>


You might want to consider this: PolyPavement road & path construction.
 
   / Building a road #3  
Bob:
Have you tried it? I've seen it mentioned for some years, but haven't had the nerve to try it. I'm about to use the old farm process, working in a little cement, rolling and wetting - to reduce mud at gates.
 
   / Building a road #4  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The surface is currently bare ground and is fairly level. Should I excavate several inches for the road surface,

<font color="red"> No! That would form a moat! The drive should be slightly above the adjacent ground. </font>


should I install some form of retainer along the edges,

<font color="red"> I use the Stump Grinder to cut trenches along the drive edges and fill with crushed stone to provide some drainage, discourage grass from spreading into the drive, and mark where the edges are. </font>

StumpGrinderTrenchTBN.jpg



what materials should I use for the surface,

<font color="red"> 1" or 1-1/2" washed crushed stone works well. Do NOT use 'road mix'! The small pieces will wash away, and the tiny pieces will form dust clouds!
Multiply length times width times depth to estimate how many cubic yards of stone you will need.</font>


what attachments would be best,

<font color="red"> I use the Stump Grinder on my PT-425 to cut the trenches, the rock teeth on the Grapple Bucket to 'rake' the surface, and the LM Bucket to transport and spread the crushed stone. </font>


should I expect to have to vibrate the surface? )</font>

<font color="red"> No, use the PT with a full LM Bucket of stone to tamp the drive. </font>


<font color="red"> Lay out the path for the drive. Trench the edges of the drive with the Stump Grinder, and fill with crushed stone. Rake the drive with the Rock Teeth to loosen the soil about 1" deep. Spread a 1~2" layer of crushed stone. Tamp the surface with the loaded PT to mix the soil and stone. Spread and level another 1~2" of crushed stone on top. Tamp with the loaded PT.

NewDriveTBN.jpg


</font>
AAA_smiley__.jpg
 
   / Building a road #5  
Fourteen....the replacement teeth on the stump grinder....how easy to change and do you know how much they cost?
 
   / Building a road
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Fourteen

Thanks for the detailed step by step process. Sounds like a doable way to go. All I have to do is add the stump grinder to my list of attachments.
 
   / Building a road #7  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( the replacement teeth on the stump grinder)</font>


<font color="red"> The teeth are welded onto the blade. Check Power Trac for a new or sharpened blade.

I have used mine for over 50 hours, grinding many stumps, cutting hundreds of feet of edging (all my drives, parking lot, lawns, and mulched gardens have been edged), cutting roots when drive building, mixing mulch into topsoil, and digging planting holes, without any significant wear!! Those carbide teeth are tough!! </font>

AAA_smiley__.jpg
 
   / Building a road #8  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( All I have to do is add the stump grinder to my list of attachments. )</font>


<font color="red"> And, be sure to REVERSE the blade!!

See "#443306 - 06/13/04 08:01 PM" at PT-425 PROS & cons?? !!

AAA_smiley__.jpg



</font>
 
   / Building a road
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Fourteen

In my wanderings through old posts I did find your recommendation for reversal of the blade and a lot of discussion following. I think it is a great idea and will do it if that is the way I go. I was also thinking about the trencher or circular trencher as options since I think I would have more continuing use for either of these. Do you think the blade on the circular trencher can be reversed? Also it looks like there may be an offset arm available for the circular trencher which would make it great for cutting along an edge although the cut is only a few inches wide where the cut on the trencher is 4 or 6 inches.
 
   / Building a road #10  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Do you think the blade on the circular trencher can be reversed? )</font>


<font color="red"> /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I know nothing about either of these attachments, but I consider the Stump Grinder a very versatile tool. </font>
 

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