Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

[ljnelson109]

Maybe I missed the decision on this..... Are you not ventilating the soffit? It looks to me like they are not installing perforated soffit. I followed much of the debate of ventilating the roof. I really think you want to get a natural airflow from soffit to your ridge vents.

Lee

 

[aczlan]

2 30A 240v circuits for the 3kw UPS units, a 20A 120V circuit for the 2.2kw UPS and a 20A circit for the sub amps.

Thats a bunch of juice...

Maybe I missed the decision on this..... Are you not ventilating the soffit? It looks to me like they are not installing perforated soffit. I followed much of the debate of ventilating the roof. I really think you want to get a natural airflow from soffit to your ridge vents.

Not if you are foaming the underside of the roof. Then you want to block any airflow as the attic becomes conditioned space.

Aaron Z

 

[MacLawn]

Aaron, I have to ask again - you mean if the sheathing and trusses are spray foam insulated, the attic does indeed become heated/cooled like the house?? This idea is totally new to me, and I'm trying to train me old brain to hold steady with all these newfangled ideas!

 

[aczlan]

Aaron, I have to ask again - you mean if the sheathing and trusses are spray foam insulated, the attic does indeed become heated/cooled like the house?? This idea is totally new to me, and I'm trying to train me old brain to hold steady with all these newfangled ideas!

Yes, you spray the underside of the sheathing, trusses, etc with foam and that keeps the heat/cold out. It also keeps the conditioned air away from the underside of the deck/trusses which is supposed to prevent condensation and as such, it is supposed to eliminate the need for ventilation in the cavities.

Aaron Z

 

[pclausen]

Here is the pic that made me question if there was drip edge installed. My mind, and as I recall Eddie Walker's also, had questioned it back when they had cheap felt on the lower part of the roof prior to installing the roofing. On the lower edge, drip edge goes down first, before any felt, so water never has a seam to get under. Then you had no pictures of the cheap felt being replaced by the rubber before the roofing went on and the attention switched to other areas.

As best I recall, the issue was that the drip edge only came in white, and since we're doing this light cream color, he had to do it differently than how he normally does it (putting down the drip edge before the shingles go on). I'll take some close-up pictures once they get done. They will be installing gutter guards with all the gutters, so maybe that is when the issue will be resolved?

 

[pclausen]

One of the reasons I suggested standoffs a while back. Since you have now selected the siding and know the thickness, putting standoffs behind the boxes not only keeps the conduit parallel, it allows the screws to be withdrawn, the siding put behind and then the boxes screwed back to the house. Boxing behind, and other methods will work, but then there is always caulk and a seam involved where the dissimilar materials meet, as they shrink and expand at different rates.
Ron

They will be putting in 3/4" spacers and will slide the hardy planks behind the meter base and transfer switch, but not until after the electrical inspection takes place today.

 

[BuilderML]

A white drip edge would of worked fine. Once the gutters are installed you don't see the drip edge anymore.

 

[pacerron]

As best I recall, the issue was that the drip edge only came in white, and since we're doing this light cream color, he had to do it differently than how he normally does it (putting down the drip edge before the shingles go on). I'll take some close-up pictures once they get done. They will be installing gutter guards with all the gutters, so maybe that is when the issue will be resolved?

Let's hope. The drip edge is one of the prime players in having a good roof. The facia that they finally are putting on normally goes on first.
Then the drip edge. That keeps melting snow from getting in behind the top of the facia. Once the spouting is on you would have to look hard to see the drip edge coming down over the facia, regardless of color. The top upper side of the (T) is nailed to the roof sheathing. Then the mastic rubberized first strip of underlayment goes over the (T) to keep moisture from getting under and behind the ( T ). Then the starter strip of shingles is put over the underlayment and is usually 1/2 inch or so beyond the front of the top of the (T). The top layer of shingle, that you see is on top of that. This brings the roof shingle edge out over the spouting trough a little to guide the water.
On the ends, the facia is put on first, then the underlayment, then the (T) drip edge. This is to keep wind from under the edge. You would see the inch or so of drip edge capping the facia there, so color should match the facia on the ends, for sure.
There are other types of drip edge but the purpose is the same. Keep water out of all wood and/or sheathing edges. Rain isn't as much a culprit as snow but just a slight amount of water, like when the rain is ending, likes to hang on and curl around under the edge of the shingles and come back to the drip edge and run down. Usually, ( T ) shaped drip edge even has a slight outward bend made in it at the bottom of the (T ) so the water will finally drip off into the spouting. Sometimes folks have a problem with water running down behind their spouting. This is often caused by somebody putting the drip edge on backwards, with the bend inwards against the facia instead of out to create a drip edge as designed.
Water, gravity, and capillary attraction can create some interesting paths. Same reason, doors, and windows have drip edges of some sort either
molded in them or the trim that surrounds them.
It would have been easier to draw a picture than try to explain it in words, I see, that I am finally done.:confused2:
Ron

 

[Gary Fowler]

Agreed. Here's mom's current deck, which is very similar.

Here's another shot of mom's old house. The new house is sort of a scaled down version.

And the beautiful garden she created!

So gardening is very high on her list of things with the new house as well. The plan is to create a mini paradise version of what she had at her old place.

We have also made the decision to cut down all the remaining Yellow Pines over the next few weeks (hopefully!). The builder is going to get a couple of boys with chainsaws in to drop the trees, I'll then haul them off to the mill.

On the advice of my builder, I had him install the vertical rails from inside the top and bottom rails. His thoughts was that with them installed on the outside, it is just a couple of nails holding them in and they could give way to a energetic child (or adult). By putting them inside and nailing or screwing from the outside, they are much stronger

 

[pacerron]

Thats a bunch of juice...


Not if you are foaming the underside of the roof. Then you want to block any airflow as the attic becomes conditioned space.

Aaron Z

Aaron,
That didn't ring a bell.
Flip back to #647 Pete explains that there will be 16" of cellulose in the ceiling.
The ridges are vented so the soffits must have holes in at least some of the panels. They require a pretty equal balance of air in to air out the ridge these days, so the number of soffit panels with vent holes probably have been determined via a computer program. The rolled ridge venting they used probably has a stated airflow rate that the soffit holes in total should match. At least in theory. Prevailing wind and other factors
shoot a lot of the theory and calculations in the head. But it all provides jobs to folks, so let them have fun, until it becomes too ridiculous.
Ron