Building Driveway/Parking Area (over disturbed soil)

[madmax12]

When I put in my drive the loader dug out the grass on about 30' of a 100 yard long drive, and I have had more trouble with that 30' than all the rest. I can't see anything that would make that part different except he dug the grass out, about 4" deep. :2cents: next time for me it is gravel on the grass if i can.

Are you saying that 270' of your 100 yard gravel drive was simply laid on top of existing lawn? If so...
Are you saying that the gravel laid on the existing lawn has performed well, while the 30' dug out portion is failing?

I've never built a driveway (yet) but I am confused by your post.

Will you please elaborate?

Thx

 

[Ed of all trades]

100 yards of drive way gravel on top of grass in old pasture on all except 30'. Same 30' a mess and the rest no problem. Don't assume? I would say the same. the rest had more organic matter but it did not hold h2o as the 30' did.

 

[madmax12]

100 yards of drive way gravel on top of grass in old pasture on all except 30'. Same 30' a mess and the rest no problem. Don't assume? I would say the same. the rest had more organic matter but it did not hold h2o as the 30' did.

That's interesting. Did they lay anything between the grass and gravel (I'm guessing not, but figured is ask anyway). And I'm figuring there was nothing placed below the gravel in the dug out 30'.

How long have u had this driveway like this? I wonder why it has worked out that way?

Would u be able to post a few pics?

Thank you for answering questions.

 

[Ed of all trades]

we have used this drive for over seven years and no we just had the dump truck spread the gravel and I have smoothed it out a little with a landscape rake. Just had to go back over the 30 ft several times more than the rest over the years with a good bit more gravel. My wife has her camera maxed out and I don't have one. I think The dug out part held water more than the rest of the drive. That is the only thing I can come up with.

 

[madmax12]

we have used this drive for over seven years and no we just had the dump truck spread the gravel and I have smoothed it out a little with a landscape rake. Just had to go back over the 30 ft several times more than the rest over the years with a good bit more gravel. My wife has her camera maxed out and I don't have one. I think The dug out part held water more than the rest of the drive. That is the only thing I can come up with.

That is absolutely wild! The biggest reason I got a tractor was so I could regrade my property and d i g... For a big gravel driveway.

Please don't tell me I could have just dumped a load of gravel on the lawn...

I kind like having the tractor...u know?

Thanks for responding.

I don't know what to make of it. Gravel on grass...success for 7 years.

Wow!

 

[MarkV]

It all depends on the type of soil you have. Here in N. Georgia we have clay that makes a fine base for gravel. My folks in Illinois have rich deep top soil that has to be removed if you want gravel to hold up.

MarkV

 

[yelbike]

It all depends on the type of soil you have. Here in N. Georgia we have clay that makes a fine base for gravel. My folks in Illinois have rich deep top soil that has to be removed if you want gravel to hold up.

MarkV

I'm wondering how geo textile fabric would help if your folks were to leave the top soil, lay the fabric then gravel.

 

[Ed of all trades]

I agree with Markv It depends on the soil, what works in one place might or might not work 5 mi away not to say a distant state.

 

[Egon]

Building a Driveway?

Start with a plan--- get elevations and make a drainage plan---dig out organic material---backfill and compact to the grade you want---lay down four in. or so of crushed gravel and compact---clean up drainage areas so water can drain freely.

Remember clay and granulars need different types of compaction and use different methods to achieve compaction.

Save the geotextile fabric money and spend it on gravel!:thumbsup:

 

[schmism]

If you cut the sod off (like rent a sod cutter) the remaining topsoil will have about 3% organics.... typical accepted fill material for road construction is less than 10% organics.

compact ground with sheepsfoot roller.

Cut ditches (HD rear blade) and pull all material up ontop of the new drive. this creates a new drive that is higher than existing ground. This also gives you a chance to cut/fill areas that need it (with box blade).

compact new graded material with sheepsfoot roller.

start with 2" rock (the larger the rock the more weight it can take) spread it 4" layer drive on that for 6 months.

add 2-4" of 1" minus crushed limestone or recycled concrete or recycled asphalt. For a great result have a paveing company put down the 1" minus through a paveing machine. leaves a compacted surface that looks like concrete, will be uniform in depth, and have proper crown built into it.

This will give you a drive that is smooth, has good base that is compacted and settled and drains water well.