Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments

[arkydog]

Im in the process of designing and fabricating an attachment for my FEL so i can easily change my 2 front bucket sizes and make a ripper tooth to use in place of the bucket for the 32 hp tractor. I have looked and looked for 3/4" and 1" pins and sleeves that can be cut to length and welded into steel plate for the attachments. years ago when i built my first back hoe attachment i used nylon bushings for the pins. now i would like to get the steel sleeves to weld in the side plates that would correspond with the pins.

does anyone know where the steel sleeve (tubes) and pins can be purchased? Im talking like 1 inch solid pipe and 1.010 1/4 in. wall tube just as an example. i don't know what the tube size is, just so they would slide in and out of each other.

thanks for looking and any help would be appreciated!

 

[dfkrug]

EBay has dealers for both the DOM tubing and the sleeve bearings that you need. I just
bought and installed some 25mm sleeve bearing replacements that wore out on my
backhoe attachment.

If you have a good local steel supplier, they should have DOM tubing as well.

 

[davedj1]

Tractor supply has bushings that are about 2" long and are for those pin sizes. I've used them many times, cut and welded in

 

[KWentling]

You need to make that ripper for the 3-point. You'll wreck the curl cylinders on your loader trying to push a ripper.

 

[arkydog]

i am going to make the ripper for the kubota backhoe to rip the tree roots before i dig out the trees. the front bucket i want to make it a fast attach to change different width FEL buckets. i guess i don't understand if i buy a one inch pin, what size DOM tubing to buy so pin can rotate or size DOM to buy and size of bushing?

is there some kind of formula to use to figure the tolerance need to for rotation inside each other?

thanks for the help. rob

 

[roygage]

As one other responder mentioned you need DOM tubing. I looked and looked and could not find until someone mentioned DOM tubing. Once I used that as a search word I found just what I needed.

 

[davedj1]

"is there some kind of formula to use to figure the tolerance need to for rotation inside each other?"
When I have done this with DOM tubing I ask for 1" ID with whatever wall thickness you want (.o65, .125 or .250) the cold rolled solid bar can be had in 16th" increments, get 15/16" for inside the 1" DOM and use grease zerks wherever you can.
Depending on how long you need the bushings as I said, TSC has bushings about 2" long and in common sizes.Just an FYI, DOM is expensive!

 

[davedj1]

Speedy Metals 1-5/8" OD x 1.125" ID x .25" Wall Other Steel Round Tube
Speedy Metals - Steel Round - 118 - Cold Finished
DOM stands for drawn over mandrel, thereby eliminating the raised welded seam found in pipe, there is also a product called electrically welded pipe with not much bulge on it's interior but I would go with DOM
DOM vs HREW Article

 

[dfkrug]

I use a lot of DOM that is 1.000 ID, and .25" wall. Then I buy and use 25mm pins, which
often give me a grease clearance of 10-15 thousandths. Note that most DOM is undersized,
but if you do not have the clearance you want, or want to use 1" pins, ream them out.

This is minimum size for this app, IMO. 30mm or 1.25" is better, and quite common.

 

[BukitCase]

My Case hoe uses 1-1/2" pins everywhere but the main hoe bucket pivot; Case parts wanted around $70 for ONE pin, so when I got the stuff to make new (and refurbish old) I bought a 6' length of 1-1/2" oil hardened rod from Enco and the 1-1/2" version of these

1 Shaft Coupler | Concentric International | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

Kinda overkill for wall thickness, but when I finally get around tuit I plan on using that keyway and re-tapping the 2 set screw holes for zerks - I also cut a couple of the couplers into 3/4" thick donuts to beef up mounting holes.

Just another possible option... Steve