Bush hog cat 1 pins too wide

[Reb954]

I haven't read through all the posts on this so maybe this has been discussed but the pictures in the first post show about 3/4" to 1" clearance between the inside of the lift arms and the collar on the post. Can the lift arms be moved in, then drill a new hole for the retainer pin, then cut and taper the end of the pin. It appears that could pickup at least an inch on each side which should make it easier to mount the mower on the tractor.

 

[bcp]

This is an interesting thread.
With a quick check at a few different locations there seems to be two different dimensions on the web for cat 1 hitch width, 26" or 28".

If I recall correctly the original poster is using the 26" width as the cat 1 standard.
I do believe that the actual standard is closer to 28" which is also the width that cat 1 quick hitches use.

I would guess that the brush hog in question is setup for the 28" standard.

Quick hitch standards:

Bruce

 

[Reb954]

I don't know what the length of your pins are but below is an example of what is available from TSC. Maybe shorter pins is all you need.

CountyLine Stabilizer Pin, S785TSC at Tractor Supply Co.

What you are running into probably isn't all that uncommon. When I first mounted my snowblower to my tractor, the lift arms wouldn't spread far enough to fit the Cat 2 slots. With the pins provided with the blower I would have to use bushings for both diameter and width in the Cat 1 slot so I made new pins that were Cat 2 diameter all the way thru. That made it so the only bushings I needed were for width as shown below.

 

[BukitCase]

I just read thru this entire thread, and unless I missed something here's my take -

The angle that the lift pins attach to seems to be set too far apart to meet the so-called "standard", and there's no practical way to reverse the pins without finding some that are ridiculously long, and made from "unobtanium" to be strong enough.

My first action would be to discuss the problem with whoever actually "owns" the implement, and explain what needs to be done so the implement works for ANYBODY'S tractor, especially if there are multiple tractors/operators involved.

Second, if all parties are in agreement that the existing DOES NOT WORK and that MODIFICATION is the more sane way (as opposed to telling TSC to SHOVE it) I would measure INSIDE dim's between the two stupidly "designed" angle lift pin mounts, and OUTSIDE dim's of same -

From the discussion, it sounds like SOMEWHERE between those two measurements is where the REAL pins should go...

The existing lift pins could be left in place, UN-MODIFIED so those pivot points still work.

If my assumptions are correct so far, I would then weld TWO ears on EACH of the angles, on the side of the angle that's TOWARD the tractor (AFTER drilling pin holes in the ears ) - this would give you LIFT pins that are CLEVIS type, and CORRECTLY spaced for EITHER QH or NON-QH tractors.

To maintain the same leveling, those two UPPER linkage pieces (the short ones that attach to the upper toplink area) can be re-made so theyre the same amount LONGER as the new lift pin clevises are FORWARD, and re-assembled. Only downside of this I see is a slight increase in the lift effort required, and a bit less manouverability.

If the OLD "upper link" pieces are kept with the mower (with a longer pivot bolt in that location, they could even be left in place and switched in a few minutes) then if a DIFFERENT operator/tractor get used, there's a CHOICE of which hitch method to use.

That's what I would do under the same circumstances; but then, I REALLY LIKE things that actually WORK/stronger hitches/welding, and REALLY HATE stuff that pisses me off :laughing: ... Steve

 

[airbiscuit]

It would help to know the dimensions of the angle iron uprights. One thought would be to bolt another piece of angle Iron to the upright with a 7/8" hole and bolt another 3pt lift pin facing inward. Then you would have the option of using the original outside pins, or connecting to the more closely spaced inside pin. (you might have to cut of the bolt protruding past the nut. Here is a rough mock up.

 

[ovrszd]

I'm guessing it's a 2 x 2 x 1/4".

Could place the inner pins just below the outers and they wouldn't interfere at all.

Good idea Biscuit.

 

[bcp]

With a pin on the inside of the angle, I suspect the back side of the angle will not clear the QH hook or the lower arm end.

Bruce

 

[airbiscuit]

With a pin on the inside of the angle, I suspect the back side of the angle will not clear the QH hook or the lower arm end.

Bruce

I don't think the OP has a Quick Hitch. I moved one pin to the inside of my rotary cutter just to offset it a bit to extend past the rear tires. It didn't affect anything. When I had a 15hp Shibaura, I would sometimes have to turn both pins inward. It worked great.

 

[s219]

I wanted to bump this up. I finally got sick of this POS and made a modification. I cut a section off the front of each angle iron post, which allowed me to flip the pins to the inside and let the 3-pt lift arms engage the pins from the inside of the A-frame. Was not thrilled about potentially weakening the posts but I have mowed with it three times now and it hasn't bent. If it does I am prepared to weld a reinforcement to the outside.

Before making the mod I had double checked all the measurements and they really botched this up, not even close to the Cat 1 standard and the design precluded flipping the pins. Can't believe they would design and ship them like this.

 

[Xfaxman]

Thanks for the update.