Bush hog drive shaft

[sandman2234]

Drive shaft on a bush hog I bought used was replaced by the previous owner. ( I was the previous owner to the previous owner, lol). Anyway, the driveshaft is getting sticky, not wanting to extend/retract. (lack of grease, no doubt). I was going to bush hog one time prior to putting it up for the winter, and the coupler/u-joint piece came loose from the 3 sided shaft. There is a small hole in the cast coupler and a matching hole in the 3 sided shaft, but both are way too small for a shear pin. (something about like 1/8" dia).
My question is, what is the correct way to connect the cast steel coupler to the 3 sided shaft? Apparently the previous owner only used the small hole with some sort of pin because there isn't a weld mark on either.
Anyone know the right way?
David from jax

 

[Soundguy]

i see them roll pin coupled..

lean that shaft in some solvent ( diesel? ) and grease it then put shield back on and yoke end..e tc..

 

[sandman2234]

First, thanks for the quick response,
Since I don't have the roll pin in a correct size, would it hurt to weld the end to the 3 sided shaft? As far as greasing it, if I can weld the end on (if that is an acceptable alternative), then I will just unhook the bush hog and ease forward with the driveshaft still coupled, putting a very slight strain on it. If that option of removal gives any sort of resistance, then a small cable thru it like a comalong will probably get it loose.
David from jax

 

[Soundguy]

i'm sure you COULD weld it. i see some welded.

I'd find a snug bolt before I welded it.

welding it makes it a lil more permanent.

 

[sandman2234]

Small bolt... hmmm, yeah that could work. I was thinking (wrongly) that the pin would simply shear, since it is quite a bit smaller than the shear pin at the other end... but duhhh, it would be hard to twist the shaft since it is three sided, not round like the other end. Thanks for turning on the light switch, lol!!!
David from jax

 

[Soundguy]

yep if that 3 sides shaft shears the holding device. you have many other issues..

 

[Don87]

I've used nails as temporary fixes for things like that also.

 

[Soundguy]

i have a mower that bailing wire or a piece of fence wire worked for a couple years on.. all it has to do is keep the shaft in t he yoke..

 

[brain55]

Look closer, that shaft and coupler should be held together with a 3/8" diameter roll pin.

As far as the two shafts I agree with cleaning and lubricating them but I prefer a dry lubricant over grease. Grease attracts too much dirt in my opinion.

Brian

 

[PoorPlowboy]

Just get a correct roll pin for pennies and fix it right. The drive shaft is made so that it can be retubed if it gets bent. The first sign of a bent tube is difficulty extending and retracting. If you try to force it, you shear the roll pin in the yoke. Sounds like we're on to something here....

 

[RickB]

Look closer, that shaft and coupler should be held together with a 3/8" diameter roll pin.

Brian

8 or 10 MM depending on shafting series.

 

[LD1]

Small bolt... hmmm, yeah that could work. I was thinking (wrongly) that the pin would simply shear, since it is quite a bit smaller than the shear pin at the other end... but duhhh, it would be hard to twist the shaft since it is three sided, not round like the other end. Thanks for turning on the light switch, lol!!!
David from jax

Bingo. The pin only "holds" the coupler on the shaft. But being 3-sided, that is what transfers the torque.

Id get a rollpin and do it right as opposed to welding. First, you probabally dont know wether its cast steel or cast iron. And you also run the risk of warping it a tad. Last thing you want is it to fail and come appart, then you got a pto shaft flailing around back there tearing stuff up

 

[brain55]

8 or 10 MM depending on shafting series.

You are right.

 

[sandman2234]

Well, I didn't have a new pin, and my spare shafts were either the wrong size pin or they wouldn't budge, so with daylight burning, I just stuck a quarter inch bolt in it. Sprayed some PB Blaster on the shaft and it freed up immediately. Reassembled and started mowing. Thanks for your help, David from jax

 

[Soundguy]

. Grease attracts too much dirt in my opinion.

Brian

yet.. many manufacturers actually include grease zerks onthe shaft for lubing them.

if the shields are in place.. dirt collection will be minimized.. besides.. it's a sliding joint.. not a bearing... and as with any greaseable joint.. frequent greasing will clean and clear the joint.

 

[brain55]

yet.. many manufacturers actually include grease zerks onthe shaft for lubing them.

if the shields are in place.. dirt collection will be minimized.. besides.. it's a sliding joint.. not a bearing... and as with any greaseable joint.. frequent greasing will clean and clear the joint.

Not trying to pick a fight, only stating my opinion and what I have seen. The only time I have seen greasable tubes is on Weasler driveshafts for post hole diggers which I can understand since there is so much range of motion. I also agree that regular greasing would force dirt out but have also been around enough to know that the only time most things get greased is if I'm called out to do the service once a year (if the machine is lucky) or if something breaks. My experience is that most users are doing well to grease their loader pins let alone something more difficult or less obvious like a driveshaft tube.

Brian

 

[Soundguy]

i know the tubes on JD batwings have grease fittings.

lack of maintenance by a user as not a reason to not have maintenance provisions by the manufacturer.

 

[PineRidge]

I too think that grease collects dirt quicker on the extendable drive shaft. That said I normally clean and grease the shaft once a year and it always seems to be easy to connect to the splined PTO.

 

[brain55]

i know the tubes on JD batwings have grease fittings.

lack of maintenance by a user as not a reason to not have maintenance provisions by the manufacturer.

Okay, batwings too, for the same reason as the phd's. Your statement is true, but look at the automotive world. I guess it could be argued either way if it is built-in failure or coming to the conclusion that enough owners aren't greasing their u-joints, ball joints, or tierod ends that they can save a few pennies by not making grease provisions without increasing their failure rate.

Let me qualify my statement a bit more. I was coming from a CUT background and point of view. When you start talking about batwing mowers you are looking at more of an industrial/commercial type situation where regular maintenance is far more likely.

Brian

 

[Soundguy]

I look hard to find greasable front end components.. I think it's a bad ida from the owners point of view not having lube-able parts. from the guy selling you the parts.. it's probably a fantastic position. 1, cheaper to build .. 2, wears out faster, 3, can sell you more.

soundguy

Okay, batwings too, for the same reason as the phd's. Your statement is true, but look at the automotive world. I guess it could be argued either way if it is built-in failure or coming to the conclusion that enough owners aren't greasing their u-joints, ball joints, or tierod ends that they can save a few pennies by not making grease provisions without increasing their failure rate.

Let me qualify my statement a bit more. I was coming from a CUT background and point of view. When you start talking about batwing mowers you are looking at more of an industrial/commercial type situation where regular maintenance is far more likely.

Brian