bush hog threw a blade

[Ultradog MN]

Something makes me think this wasn't a Bush Hog® but some cheap, wanna be rotary cutter.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Yes. generic term for us (it is called a brush mower by the factory), so no knock agains the Bush Hog line.

And no, the are not cheap wanna be cutters, but powerful hydrualic multihead mower. Just quirky about blade retention.

 

[Marks481]

Something makes me think this wasn't a Bush Hog® but some cheap, wanna be rotary cutter.

Do you call it Kleenex® or Tissue?

How about Crescent® Wrench or adjustable spanner?

"Bush Hog" is one of the oldest brands, and its name is synonymous with "rough cut mower", like it or not. I grew up in red neck country, and that is what we all called them, regardless of who built them.

Since this post is in the Power Trac® forum, you can pretty much guess we are talking about the power trac "cheap wanna be" brush mower. It still can still cut rocks in half and throw the pieces about 200 ft, even if it is a "cheap, wanna be".

And actually, it is not less expensive than a Bush Hog. Go figure. Hydraulic motor and welded out of solid 3/16" plate.

We all wish we could put real bush hog blades on this thing, since the blade attachment method is a bit wanting.

 

[MossRoad]

Mudflaps are cheap and can be fitted easily. Or use expanded metal as a debris shield and wear a helmet, My dad did this. It is a bit better mowing on a full size than an older or compact, I am higher up off the ground so that it is harder for debris to kick up that high. I know on my Massey MF35 when I hit something and the slipper starts slipping, I usually hunker down and clutch it. I don't want to lift the deck and risk it throwing whatever out. I also got into the habbit of mowing high stuff backwards

Perhaps just have a bunch of blade bolts and change them every so many hours regardless? or switch to a different bolt?

Thanks for the suggestions.... these are front-mount cutters on the FEL arms out in front of the tractor, so we don't have to back over the stuff, we cut it before we drive over it going forward. Works very well. The problem is the way the drum that the blades attach to is designed. The lowest point is the head of the mounting bolts for the blades. And the blades are straight. So, if the blades get deflected off a rock or stump, mound of hard dirt, etc... they can come around and smack the mounting bolt head for the other blade, damaging it. Also, the bolt head itself can hit rocks, stumps etc... its a poor design. Very effective cutter when its working, but poor design. They (Power Trac Co.) need to shorten the drum, make the drum a wider diameter, and put shorter, gull-wing type blades on it. That would resolve 95% of the problems, as the blades would then be the lowest point on the cutter and they wouldn't be able to smack their own mounting bolts. However, shorter blades may have less mass than the current ones, and the weight behind the blade is what really does the damage to the brush. Anyhow, it needs improvement.