After putting new pads on my slip clutch after I burnt them out I noticed oil leaking out the side plug. I thought that was weird. It was sitting in the sun and not running at all. I opened up the side plug and oil began spilling out. Probably around a 1/4 to a half pint of oil came out of the plug hole. Only thing I can figure out is it was overfilled at some point. To be honest, I don't think I have ever put any oil in it since I bought it and that was probably 4 or more years ago. Anyway, number 1, I am wondering if the vent plug is working correctly. I removed it and when I push on the underside of it, it moves up and back down. Perhaps it is dirty on the inside and not letting air escape?? Not sure what is going on. The side vent plug was very tight so I am sure there had to be a great amount of pressure built up for it to be leaking out there. Just don't know if I need to replace the vent plug or not. Guess it wouldn't hurt. Also, shouldn't the oil level be even with the lower part of the hole on the side plug? Do you guys ever try to replace the oil or do you just make sure there is enough in the gear case? Thanks for your help! This is on a SQ160.
Bush Hog Vent plug??
- Thread starter fishrman
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mcfarmall
Veteran Member
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- Kalamazoo, MI
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- Kubota M5660, Farmall C, JD 260 lawn tractor
The plug on the side is not and should not be a vented plug. The side plug is the proper oil level for the gearbox. The vented plug should be installed in the highest location which is where you'd fill the gearbox.
I haven't replaced the oil on my king kutter since it was new 30 years ago. It was filled with synthetic gear oil from the manufacturer and there were special instructions that said NOT to install a vented plug. There are some special gear oils that don't require venting of the gearbox...we've used them in some critical pharmaceutical applications.
I haven't replaced the oil on my king kutter since it was new 30 years ago. It was filled with synthetic gear oil from the manufacturer and there were special instructions that said NOT to install a vented plug. There are some special gear oils that don't require venting of the gearbox...we've used them in some critical pharmaceutical applications.
Yes, I knew the vent plug goes on the top and that is how it is. So the bottom of the hole on the side plug would be the proper level for the oil? Is there a way to know whether or not the vent plug is working correctly? Seems to me it should have vented out that plug and not out the seams of the side plug. Maybe I should replace the oil with the special oils that don't require venting?
correct, side plug is proper oil level, usually the vent plug on top also serves as fill plug
i've seen 2 types of vent plugs, newer models usually have a spring loaded check valve. older machines sometimes have a bundle of fine wires to vent.
i'd recommend installing a new vent plug for your model. shouldn't be hard to track down. a small expense, compared, say, to ruptured input/output shaft seals
also through the years moisture may have accumulated in the gearbox raising the level hence your issue.
get the new plug, ensure it's working, then change the entire gearbox oil. search the manufacturers recommendation for grade
i personally use 85/140 gear oil (conventional) but check your particular model recommendation best regards
i've seen 2 types of vent plugs, newer models usually have a spring loaded check valve. older machines sometimes have a bundle of fine wires to vent.
i'd recommend installing a new vent plug for your model. shouldn't be hard to track down. a small expense, compared, say, to ruptured input/output shaft seals
also through the years moisture may have accumulated in the gearbox raising the level hence your issue.
get the new plug, ensure it's working, then change the entire gearbox oil. search the manufacturers recommendation for grade
i personally use 85/140 gear oil (conventional) but check your particular model recommendation best regards
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Thanks! The one I have is spring loaded and the spring seems to be working but if it were truly working, I wouldn't think the oil would be pressured through the plug on the side. Anyway, I think you are giving good advice and believe that is what I will do. I will see if I can track down a new check valve Monday, might have to order but will check at local dealer. I will suck the old oil out and replace. Book calls for 80/90 so guess I will go with that. Not sure how much I will need?? I would guess, at least a quart??
YLee Kioti
Veteran Member
This should help:
6. Gearbox - Check oil level by removing oil level
check plug on right side of gearbox. Add EP80W-90
gear oil if necessary to bring oil level to check plug
hole. Capacity of SQ142 and SQ148 is 1.6 quarts
(1.5L), SQ160 and SQ172 is 2 quarts (1.9L). Capacity
of SQ184 is 1 quart (.95L). Capacity of SQ-84T
Iv.maintenance; Maintenance Check List; Lubrication - Bush Hog SQ142 Operator's Manual [Page 12]
6. Gearbox - Check oil level by removing oil level
check plug on right side of gearbox. Add EP80W-90
gear oil if necessary to bring oil level to check plug
hole. Capacity of SQ142 and SQ148 is 1.6 quarts
(1.5L), SQ160 and SQ172 is 2 quarts (1.9L). Capacity
of SQ184 is 1 quart (.95L). Capacity of SQ-84T
Iv.maintenance; Maintenance Check List; Lubrication - Bush Hog SQ142 Operator's Manual [Page 12]
Thanks, didn't see that in my book! Looks like I need 2 quarts of 80w-90. Interesting the SQ184 takes less than the 160. Thanks again, big help!
YLee Kioti
Veteran Member
Welcome glad to help.
especially since I'm a novice, unlike the many seasoned hands here ..lol...blind hog and all that....have a great weekend.
especially since I'm a novice, unlike the many seasoned hands here ..lol...blind hog and all that....have a great weekend.
jthibodeau89
Gold Member
I think that it is strange that it would leak out pipe threads before it leaked through the shaft seals. You may want to check for a crack in the case at the side plug. The housing can crack if the tapered plug is over torqued.
Oh great! Now you have me worried about that! I suppose that is a possibility though, I will check closer tomorrow! The reason I am now worried about that possibility is that it wasn't leaking before I took it to the dealer to have him put new pads on and he told me that he greased it all up and checked the fluids and took some fluid out because there was to much in it. Now, I am wondering if when he put the plug back in he may have overtightened it! If he did, I am not going to be a happy camper. On the other hand, unless there is an obvious crack there, it is going to be hard for me to see. Someone suggested I put plumbers tape on the plug. If I do that and it still leaks, I guess that would tell me there is probably a crack there?? Oh, I hope you are wrong but it is to late for me to check it out now till tomorrow!
prichard
Veteran Member
I'd guess it's more likely the didn't tighten it rather than over tightened.
Hope you are right but it seemed very tight when I loosened it. I will, hopefully, no more soon. If it is a very small crack, I will have a hard time seeing it though.
jthibodeau89
Gold Member
Per you comment on the original post, the oil had not been checked in several years, and the side vent was very tight. You did not mention that the clutches were replaced by a dealer and the gear box serviced. I assume that this leak is new since servicing. It seems that the box was overfilled slightly by the dealer per your comments on the level. A slight drip when removing the plug is normal, 8-16 oz is over filled.
Here is a way to look for a crack. After replacing the side cap with Teflon tape applied, clean the area with solvent. Note, some solvents may remove the paint. Brake cleaner being one of them. The purpose is to remove any oil before step 2.
Step 2: Spray the area with Gold Bond foot powder. Try for an heavy, but even coat of white dust. A crack should show up as a wet line radiating from the edge of the plug hole as the oil seeps through. This is similar to die penetrate inspection.
Here is a way to look for a crack. After replacing the side cap with Teflon tape applied, clean the area with solvent. Note, some solvents may remove the paint. Brake cleaner being one of them. The purpose is to remove any oil before step 2.
Step 2: Spray the area with Gold Bond foot powder. Try for an heavy, but even coat of white dust. A crack should show up as a wet line radiating from the edge of the plug hole as the oil seeps through. This is similar to die penetrate inspection.
Thanks! I went back to the dealer this morning after I inspected it. I used a magnifying glass and couldn't see anything. He basically told me that he didn't think I had anything to worry about but if I still had a leak after applying the Teflon tape, they would take care of the problem no charge. I have now drained out the old oil, just because I wanted to, and replaced it with 75-90 Synthetic until it just started to come out the side hole. I have replaced the plug with Teflon tape on. Of course, if there is a crack above the bottom of the hole, there will be no leak. Do you think I should put a few more ozs. in to see if it leaks or not?
Also, I went to another local dealer that I normally order parts from or get them from relative to the vent plug. He told me to go down the street and get one from a local car parts store and if they couldn't help me to come back. Well, they could order one but it wouldn't be exactly like I had so I went back to the dealer and they told me to try another local auto store. I did and they didn't have the exact part available either. Sooo, instead of bothering my local dealer again, I ordered it online and should have it in a couple days! Small business's wonder why they are going under! What a run around!
