Rotary Cutter Bushhog Top Link Question

[eventer79]

I have a bushhog that I bought new about 2 years ago, but I am wondering if I need to loosen one of the top bolts to allow it to float better? It has a joint in the upper diagonal bracing, which is behind where 3-pt top link attaches, which looks like it should allow some motion, however the shop I bought it from who assembled it up, has that bolt clamped tight. I have since learned that the person who did that assembly is, well, let's just say - I wouldn't trust them any farther than I could throw them & I'm really bad at throwing.

Attached pic is it attached to my tractor. I have not been able to find any specific directions about this in the manual or from the manufacturer. But previous bushhogs I've used all had freedom in the upper connection (usually with the sliding u-connectors, but I don't have one of those) & it seems like this one is designed for that since it has those bracing wings on that diagonal?

So should I loosen that bolt so it can pivot on its own? Or other suggestions? Can a slide-y u-connector be added aftermarket? Thanks in advance!

 

[Peter 315]

Yes loosen the bolt....

 

[eventer79]

Nice, that is what I thought it might want to do, just hadn't seen one jointed like that before. Thanks!

 

[Peter 315]

I can push it by hand ......... you want it loose but not falling apart....

 

[tmcj]

What brand cutter is that? It looks an awful lot like mine, Titan Implements.

 

[1010]

Take that third arm off, and use a chain. Much easier on tractor and bushhog.

 

[Roadworthy]

If you loosen the bolt you should probably replace the nut with the self locking variety so it doesn't shake off.

 

[WranglerX]

If you loosen the bolt you should probably replace the nut with the self locking variety so it doesn't shake off.

Or drill bolt for "R" clip or cotter pin.... Many be double lock nut if bolt long enough...

Dale

 

[Ford850]

The nut looks like it is a lock nut, with a slight rim.

 

[TerryR]

The design was obviously for the joint to flex, so the factory parts should allow for it to be left loose enough to do that. I'd expect a self-locking nut or other arrangement that does that.

 

[eventer79]

What brand cutter is that? It looks an awful lot like mine, Titan Implements.

It is a Branson, which I think is the same as Titan (the manual says Titan).

Thanks, everyone! Sorry, work pulled me away. It does have lock nuts on all the bolts already, so should be good there. I will keep an eye on that though, am about to go loosen it up & run it today. If I need to, I can drill a hole for a pin (thanks for that suggestion, good one).

Much appreciated!!

 

[eventer79]

Just to update -- I loosened that bracket enough to pivot without being loose enough to rattle & it worked great. Thanks again for the help, it is so nice to mow the pastures without scraping grooves into them. I should have figured this out faster, but the first year I had it, I still thought the seller knew what he was doing. Lesson learned!

 

[Peter 315]

:thumbsup:..Happy mowing

 

[MESSMAKER]

Glad you got it working but not sure what is up. You should have a bushing that will not allow tou to restrict the movement of the flex hitch. You may be OK but a well placed washer may fix everything.

 

[Ford850]

Just to update -- I loosened that bracket enough to pivot without being loose enough to rattle & it worked great. Thanks again for the help, it is so nice to mow the pastures without scraping grooves into them. I should have figured this out faster, but the first year I had it, I still thought the seller knew what he was doing. Lesson learned!

That sounds like you have it adjusted as it should have been done by your dealer. Here's the instructions for that part of assembly: "Tighten the bolt sufficiently to eliminate side play,
but still allow the break link to function." :thumbsup:

 

[Texasmark]

That sounds like you have it adjusted as it should have been done by your dealer. Here's the instructions for that part of assembly: "Tighten the bolt sufficiently to eliminate side play,
but still allow the break link to function." :thumbsup:

Agree that if you don't assemble an item yourself, like one could experience in a shipment of mower decks, you are at the mercy of the local dealer's installer's experience and knowledge. Case in point, I bought a new lawn mower this winter. Found that the dealer was having numerous tires replaced. Never have seen that type of a problem on such equipment.....I checked mine and the tires were rated for 10 psi max and were sitting just under 30#.

The U shaped bracket is another example as you found out. It can't function if tight and worst case you will bend your 3rd member or worse. I had a neighbor, new to the farm arena, do just that on his new tractor-mower. He was lucky that the 3rd member bent and didn't tear up something on the tractor or mower.......but they have good range but there is a limit as to how deep of a ditch you can cross without binding.

I have used mowers with a chain on the bottom end of the bar and have modified mowers without a chain to having a chain. I like the swinging U the best.

 

[eventer79]

That sounds like you have it adjusted as it should have been done by your dealer. Here's the instructions for that part of assembly: "Tighten the bolt sufficiently to eliminate side play,
but still allow the break link to function." :thumbsup:

The way dealer interpreted that step (although I am pretty certain he read exactly 0% of any instructions): "Put your air wrench on every bolt you can find & crank those puppies down until the head edges dig in to the paint." :indifferent: This has been a good reminder for me that I need to stick tight to one of my core life philosophies: don't trust anyone!

Texasmark, that is what I was afraid was going to happen if something didn't get loosened -- I kept looking back there nervously, not liking that there was no give point to dissipate that force. I might not be an expert mechanic, but I'm good at physics (especially good at demonstrating them through failure, heh). The previous bushhog I used had the swinging u-joint at the top, which I really liked too. I may look in to adding that in once I stop having to give all my money to the vet (hahahha, like accident-addicted horse is ever going to give up his campaign).

ETA -- about the tires & glad none of them blew up in your face before you discovered it!

 

[Peter 315]

The way dealer interpreted that step (although I am pretty certain he read exactly 0% of any instructions): "Put your air wrench on every bolt you can find & crank those puppies down until the head edges dig in to the paint." :indifferent: This has been a good reminder for me that I need to stick tight to one of my core life philosophies: don't trust anyone!

Texasmark, that is what I was afraid was going to happen if something didn't get loosened -- I kept looking back there nervously, not liking that there was no give point to dissipate that force. I might not be an expert mechanic, but I'm good at physics (especially good at demonstrating them through failure, heh). The previous bushhog I used had the swinging u-joint at the top, which I really liked too. I may look in to adding that in once I stop having to give all my money to the vet (hahahha, like accident-addicted horse is ever going to give up his campaign).

ETA -- about the tires & glad none of them blew up in your face before you discovered it!

HAHA horses always cost money even the free ones are not free ...........