Bushhogging a a hill

[Buxus]

I am clearing the upper 60 feet of a slope that extends about 150 feet down to the shoreline. It is overgrown with invasives (wisteria, asian bittersweet, and Japanese honeysuckle). I am clearing about 200 horizontal feet. I am doing this with a chainsaw and loppers and making good progress. Downed trees (scaffolding for the vines) are pulled out with chains and moved to the burn pile.

Once cleared, I'd like to keep the vines from coming back by keeping it mowed every few weeks.

I have a Kubota M7060 HD 12 4WD with filled R4 tires, wheels spaced at the max, and a FEL. I would be mowing with a semi-mount 6 foot rotary cutter, medium duty. I would back down the 60 feet to the tree line, then come straight back up. Then move over and repeat. There would be no sideways mowing.

The slope is 25 degrees. It seems doable to me, but what do you all think - too steep?

 

[bcp]

For me: 25 degrees? Only under ideal conditions, which are seldom.

Engine oil starvation? Rear wheel drops into a hole or soft spot? Tire slippage on a slick spot? Plan and equipment available if you get stuck?

I would clear it once or twice a year with a long reach hedge trimmer set with the head parallel to the ground. That cuts surprisingly fast with no old growth to cut.

Or hire it done.

Bruce

 

[Shawn T. W.]

Don't know the angle ... But with this 5' 3 point rotary cutter which weighs 518 Lbs, only needed 2 wheel drive on my Grand L 5030 with R1 tires NOT filled ...

However when I hook up my 90" finish mower which weighs 1102 Lbs, I needed 4X4 to pull back up the same hill ... The finish mower rides on four castor wheels, and a floppy top link hitch, so kinda more like your semi hitch ...

Your tractor is bigger and heavier than mine, and your tires are filled, but R1's have better traction than R4's ... But I'd definitely do it first run would be in lowest gear and 4X4, but I think with all that weight you could do it in just 2 wheel drive, lots of the older tractors didn't have 4X4 ...

 

[RjCorazza]

I occasionally mow a 28 degree bank with my Kubota L4060 with filled R4 rears by backing up the slope, then forward back down. ALWAYS in 4wd to avoid a wild ride down when there is less weight on the rears. I also only cut this bank under ideal weather and soil conditions.
The OP's 25 degrees is certainly doable under the right conditions and care.

 

[Lineman North Florida]

Very doable, utilize low gear and 4x4 and let common sense rule the day.

 

[John0829]

I mow one of my neighbors fields for him with my old Ford 850, never checked the angle but it is so steep that I have to brace my feet against the steering arms to stay in the seat. First time or two I mowed it I prefer to go down it but that involves a lot of circling to get back to the top, now I just turn at the bottom and go back up. Worst part are the hidden washes to watch out for because once you start down there is NO stopping. Touching the brakes you loose traction and are then sitting on a couple of thousand pound sled.

 

[nando]

When on similar steep (dry) land, I always keep a hand on the bucket ready to drop in case traction is lost. Damp or wet grass is very non-forgiving.

 

[Buxus]

Thank you for all the feedback. I have two questions:

1. If I choose to tackle it, should I go front first down the hill, and if so why?

2. bcp - please tell me more about engine oil starvation. I assume the oil can pool away from the oil pump? How common is this?

 

[DJ54]

Working the slope on a 45º angle will cut the degree of slope in half.

 

[ptsg]

This was my second job with my tractor using a chain mulcher back in 2017. The "n" stands for narrow tractor. While it never shows right on cameras, the steepest part was up to 35 degrees and the flattest area was still up to 20 degrees.

This was forestry type brush, up to 3", mostly gorse. I did most of it up and down. Reversing downhill, using gravity in my favor doing the harder work (helps a lot with fuel), then come back up finishing the cut. Step over and do it all again. There was a 3 meters drop off at the very end of the valley.

I've work sideways up to 25 degrees with my narrow tractor. I wouldn't go much further than that really.

For anything steeper, I would rather use either one of these tractors with a chain mulcher but I don't own them anymore. These can handle some serious steep ground.

 

[big bubba]

PTSG: is that an orchard behind the tractors? do apples or pears grow in your climate?

 

[ptsg]

PTSG: is that an orchard behind the tractors? do apples or pears grow in your climate?

Yes it is. There are various types of trees. Apples, pears, figs, olives, cherries, avocados, lemons, various orange varieties, kiwi's, and much much more. My dad is the fruit tree guy, I mostly maintain the area around them.

Also yes, apples and pear do grow here. Actually, around Alcobaça, a city just about 20 miles south of me, there are the biggest orchards in the country for apples, known as Alcobaça apple.

 

[redman135]

OP,1) I would suggest you reverse down and drive out as this give best traction.
2) reduce the tyre preassure for traction if you are not already near minimum recommended preassure.
3) Try to avoid driving over large sticks as they could cause a break of traction, particularly if damp.
4) wait until the dew has lifted and the ground is dry. Huge difference where you can and can't go between wet, or damp and dry.
5) If traction is suspect ie sticks etc use diff lock.
6) I have topped/brushhogged slopes like yours and it is a matter of reading the ground(eg holes) and vegetation (large sticks) and apply the above 5 points.
Note 1 poster suggested driving up at an angle. Use the DIFF LOCK to hold the nose at the desired angle up the hill NOT the uphill brake. The diff lock method is more stabil as the brake method drags you sideways in an already poor traction situation.
PS Let us know how the job went please.

 

[big bubba]

Yes it is. There are various types of trees. Apples, pears, figs, olives, cherries, avocados, lemons, various orange varieties, kiwi's, and much much more. My dad is the fruit tree guy, I mostly maintain the area around them.

Also yes, apples and pear do grow here. Actually, around Alcobaça, a city just about 20 miles south of me, there are the biggest orchards in the country for apples, known as Alcobaça apple.

although not related to this thread, your orchard sounds great. real nice setup. wonder if fruit related diseases & insects in your area pose the same problem as the North American climate (the reason i haven't pursued fruit in my Southern climate).

 

[ptsg]

although not related to this thread, your orchard sounds great. real nice setup. wonder if fruit related diseases & insects in your area pose the same problem as the North American climate (the reason i haven't pursued fruit in my Southern climate).

Here at home, we about 100 fruit trees, of various varieties. Not many repeated ones.

We absolutely do have lots of issues with diseases and insects. Specially on the olive trees, those require so much attention in that area as they seem to be attacked by everything.

We tend avoid using any kind of pesticides and insecticides on most of the trees, which results in a lot of trashed fruit. Basically on use that stuff on types of fruits we care more and want a better production. We also can't eat it all, even though we give loads of fruit away to friends and family.

 

[Shawn T. W.]

OP,1) I would suggest you reverse down and drive out as this give best traction.
2) reduce the tyre preassure for traction if you are not already near minimum recommended preassure.

I agree!

I run 10 PSI in my rears . . . Manual calls for 20 PSI in the 14.9-26 R1's, and I run 20 PSI in my front 9.5-16 R1'S, manual calls for 30 PSI.

Most tractor tires are directional, so they dig/grip better going forward ...

The only slight advantage of driving down the hill, is with a loader you have the chance to drop it, and hopefully curl the lip in to stop if you had a run away situation, backing down you loose most of that ...

Most tractors this size and smaller don't have front brakes, they can "utilize" the back brakes if it's in 4X4 mode ...

 

[big bubba]

Don't know the angle ... But with this 5' 3 point rotary cutter which weighs 518 Lbs, only needed 2 wheel drive on my Grand L 5030 with R1 tires NOT filled ...

View attachment 4798565

However when I hook up my 90" finish mower which weighs 1102 Lbs, I needed 4X4 to pull back up the same hill ... The finish mower rides on four castor wheels, and a floppy top link hitch, so kinda more like your semi hitch ...

View attachment 4798566

Your tractor is bigger and heavier than mine, and your tires are filled, but R1's have better traction than R4's ... But I'd definitely do it first run would be in lowest gear and 4X4, but I think with all that weight you could do it in just 2 wheel drive, lots of the older tractors didn't have 4X4 ...

Shawn: i'd be backing up that short slope, not forward. imho

 

[Shawn T. W.]

Shawn: i'd be backing up that short slope, not forward. imho

Why?

 

[hayden]

I mow steep stuff all the time. I'd back down, exactly as you describe. I also agree with 4WD, low range, and be ready on the diff lock. I think the only risk will be the ground is soft and you start sinking in. R4s kind of suck in such conditions. So just go slowly and carefully.

I disagree about driving down forwards and back up. Much better traction going forward. Plus you will have better flotation with the bigger rear tires. Plus you will be able to reach further with the mower while keeping the wheels further away from the edge.

If you start sinking, stop and pull out. I'd also have a plan in case I got stuck. Maybe just a tow strap and a pickup.

 

[big bubba]

Why?

having to turn around the fence, and center of gravity shift on the slope while doing it. looks like a short run, back up & down would be my choice.