Update;
Correction, the O2 sensor removal tool that I bought is by Great NECK !
This morning I plugged the lower hose heater in, primarily because I wanted to work on metal that would be at least a little bit warm.
I did other things for a while and came back to it, thinking on and off about the air in the lines, how I was going to purge them, etc.
I decided to tighten the high pressure lines "snug" and then back them off a turn, then crank it without trying to start it, I just wanted fuel up the lines and air out.
Working alone I couldn't see which, if any were leaking, so I just cranked for maybe 5 seconds and then tightened them up.
Cranked again, but it didn't start and the battery was starting to sound a bit weak.
The day still hadn't warmed up, neither had I, so I went in and did other things for another hour or so.
OK, repeat of the loosened hoses, crank, tighten hoses, crank and it started up - sounded pretty smooth too, though perhaps a bit fast.
I decided that maybe the side covers being off and me being beside it probably made it sound louder and therefore faster.
I did the trick in the manual of loosening the injector hoses at the injectors one by one. This a) confirms each injector as it quits when fuel leaks from it's line and
b) bleeds air from the line right at the injector. I think it may have got a bit smoother from this.
It certainly made me feel better about the injectors to hear each one drop the engine revs by about the same amount for 1/2 turn on the hose nut.
Then the details; air inlet manifold hose back on (quieter), side covers back on(quieter), loader back on.
Weird thing with color code sleeves around the loader hoses; red fades to pink, yellow fades to very light yellow, blue fades, but green fades to BLUE.
So raise and lower were screwed up.
I did change the fuel filter, looking back on my notes it probably has about 120 hours on it. I'm undecided, but have made note of it.
This wasn't a wasted effort, just going through pulling all the injectors and glow plugs, then getting it running again has taken me through the process.
Cleaning the electrical contacts, getting anti-seize on threads, etc all adds up.
BTW, I did discover a possible fuel pump problem. When I had the outlet hose disconnected and switched on to fill the new filter the pump did NOT run (no sound & no fuel out).
It MIGHT just be a connection, the starter switch, etc.
It comes and goes, right now it has gone.
Will see, snow is due, I will see how it starts and how it runs when totally COLD.
PS It IS worth removing the row of cylinder head bolts along the right hand side, the front 4 of them that are close to the injectors.
My Injectors weren't VERY TIGHT and I had squirted power blaster around them several times over the course of maybe 4 days before trying to loosen them.
I still felt that the O2 sensor removal tool needed to be well down and around them.
If you have a very thin wall 22mm socket it might not matter.
Correction, the O2 sensor removal tool that I bought is by Great NECK !
This morning I plugged the lower hose heater in, primarily because I wanted to work on metal that would be at least a little bit warm.
I did other things for a while and came back to it, thinking on and off about the air in the lines, how I was going to purge them, etc.
I decided to tighten the high pressure lines "snug" and then back them off a turn, then crank it without trying to start it, I just wanted fuel up the lines and air out.
Working alone I couldn't see which, if any were leaking, so I just cranked for maybe 5 seconds and then tightened them up.
Cranked again, but it didn't start and the battery was starting to sound a bit weak.
The day still hadn't warmed up, neither had I, so I went in and did other things for another hour or so.
OK, repeat of the loosened hoses, crank, tighten hoses, crank and it started up - sounded pretty smooth too, though perhaps a bit fast.
I decided that maybe the side covers being off and me being beside it probably made it sound louder and therefore faster.
I did the trick in the manual of loosening the injector hoses at the injectors one by one. This a) confirms each injector as it quits when fuel leaks from it's line and
b) bleeds air from the line right at the injector. I think it may have got a bit smoother from this.
It certainly made me feel better about the injectors to hear each one drop the engine revs by about the same amount for 1/2 turn on the hose nut.
Then the details; air inlet manifold hose back on (quieter), side covers back on(quieter), loader back on.
Weird thing with color code sleeves around the loader hoses; red fades to pink, yellow fades to very light yellow, blue fades, but green fades to BLUE.
So raise and lower were screwed up.
I did change the fuel filter, looking back on my notes it probably has about 120 hours on it. I'm undecided, but have made note of it.
This wasn't a wasted effort, just going through pulling all the injectors and glow plugs, then getting it running again has taken me through the process.
Cleaning the electrical contacts, getting anti-seize on threads, etc all adds up.
BTW, I did discover a possible fuel pump problem. When I had the outlet hose disconnected and switched on to fill the new filter the pump did NOT run (no sound & no fuel out).
It MIGHT just be a connection, the starter switch, etc.
It comes and goes, right now it has gone.
Will see, snow is due, I will see how it starts and how it runs when totally COLD.
PS It IS worth removing the row of cylinder head bolts along the right hand side, the front 4 of them that are close to the injectors.
My Injectors weren't VERY TIGHT and I had squirted power blaster around them several times over the course of maybe 4 days before trying to loosen them.
I still felt that the O2 sensor removal tool needed to be well down and around them.
If you have a very thin wall 22mm socket it might not matter.
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