BUSTED WHEEL

   / BUSTED WHEEL #1  

DIRTROAD

Platinum Member
Joined
May 18, 2008
Messages
560
Location
SOUTH CAROLINA
Tractor
MF231, MF240, CAT D4K2
I had a bad run of luck while bushogging today. The day started off good and about three hours into it I got a flat front tire. Well I figured no big deal, probably just a locust thorn. After taking the front tire off I got an unpleasant surprise. On the back side of the wheel there was a six inch long crack.

1. How would you fix it?
2. What do you think caused it?
3. Has this ever happened to you?

TRACTOR WHEEL 004.jpg

TRACTOR WHEEL 003.jpg
 
   / BUSTED WHEEL #2  
would think a crack like that could be welded up. Smooth it out some with a small grinder wheel, and then prime & paint. It should at least hold air. It's no good like it is now so you can't hurt it any worse!

It may have been caused by a bad stamping, or possibly the steel was just thin in that area. It would concern me about the other 3 rims though.

Btw, what part of SC are you in??
 
   / BUSTED WHEEL #3  
I would grind the crack out a bit before welding it to get better penetration. Other than that, I don't see any reason you could not keep running it for years once repaired.
 
   / BUSTED WHEEL #4  
I would weld it from the inside. As stated you have nothing to loose.
Bill
 
   / BUSTED WHEEL #5  
Back in the 70's we had a travel trailer that had no spare rim and re couldn't find one. On one trip it cracked, dad had it welded up and would have done good except for the lump the welder left that chaffed through the tube. Eventually a friend of ours cut the center of the rim and rewelded it to a new outer rim. A new rim was eventually found, and I think that one was demoted to spare status
So reweld it and be happy
 
   / BUSTED WHEEL #6  
I would think you could weld it and them take a grinder to it.

Like Bill said, weld it on the inside.

I would take a grinder and take the paint off so you can get a good weld, and at the end of the crack i would grind a little more past it to see if it has a crack, because it could have a crack but not coming through the paint....I would weld inside & out.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
   / BUSTED WHEEL #7  
Yep, weld inside and out!
Clean wire brush or sand blast first and grind and polish inside so as not to chafe the inner tube.
For sure you are not worried about balancing etc at the low speeds a tractor rides.

Been there, done that. (250 hours ago)
 
   / BUSTED WHEEL
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Well, I got the wheel welded up (Inside and Out) today. Then had to get a new tire and tube (The old ones were no good anyway). Hopefully this will last for a long time.

kebo I am in Northern Spartanburg County. Almost on the NC state line.

TRACTOR WHEEL 008.jpg

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   / BUSTED WHEEL #9  
awe that's nuttin.. drill the ends of the crack and weld the bajeebers out of it..

I got rims with more brazement and weldment on them than original metal and they run every day.

soudnguy

soundguy
 
   / BUSTED WHEEL #10  
Steel wheels are welded into a hoop (like a short tube) and then roll formed. Our company had some dealings with a vendor in Northern Indiana who makes the machines that do the roll forming.

You can see that the steel is rolled into a really tight radius at the point that it cracked. Now this might sound crazy, but if a batch of steel comes in that is "better" than regular mild steel (slightly elevated carbon or a few trace alloys) the improved yield strength and reduced ductility may cause a lot of residual stress to be set up in that severe forming operation.

For however long the tractor has been around, that stressed area has been subject to cyclic loading and it is possible that there might be a little corrosion on the inside, all of which contributes to heighten the stress concentration until it finally cracks.

Is this a 4 spoke wheel ? It could be that shrinkage of the wheel center after welding also puts this area in direct tension. For this reason, most alloy wheels are designed with odd numbers of spokes or with the spokes curved, to reduce stress buildup caused by the casting cooling down and shrinking.

Anyway, it seems you have it well under control...
 
 
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