Buying a new GN trailer: tilt or deckover?

[RedNeckRacin]

Wow, so you put almost 4K more on that trailer than what "should have" been put on it. Interesting!

This is why I really appreciate this forum... real world experience from people!

I have again looked into the 20+5 single tandem from PJ. 15680 GVWR with a 5300# trailer = 10,380 available for payload. That's without transferring any to the truck at all, in theory.

At this point, who knows what I'm going to buy, ha! I see the pros and cons of all the different options right now.

I am reverting back to think that my CURRENT needs do not warrant a dual tandem right now. I think I could resell that PJ for close to what I paid for it, since I will take really good care of it, store it inside, etc. (The used trailer prices right now are just crazy, IMO!) Then upgrade to a dual tandem in the future if I needed it.

Bottom line, I think I need to take a drive up to the PJ dealer's lot and look at the options in person.

They have all of the different trailers that I would be interested in (a very nice 20+5 Lamar dual tandem, the PJ models, etc.), and I just need to look them all over in person.

Thanks, Xfaxman!

BE careful of those numbers. If you only have 7k axles you can only put 14k on them(legally of course) Many trailer manufacture's uprate their trailer numbers to make them seem better by adding in the assumed pin weight on the tow vehicle. BEst thing I can tell you is to compare similiar trailers in a spreadsheet (it sounds nuts but it will show you things you might have lost in the shuffle) TO me, if your going to try and take advantage of the trailer and are going to be loading equipment, flexing of the trailer may be a concern. I think some builders assume a even loading and that a certain hitch load can be assumed to get their weights.

Also, be sure to compare the main rails, necks, and cross members of trailers. Builders try and cut corners anyway they can to sell a trailer.

 

[econometrics]

BE careful of those numbers. If you only have 7k axles you can only put 14k on them(legally of course) Many trailer manufacture's uprate their trailer numbers to make them seem better by adding in the assumed pin weight on the tow vehicle. BEst thing I can tell you is to compare similiar trailers in a spreadsheet (it sounds nuts but it will show you things you might have lost in the shuffle) TO me, if your going to try and take advantage of the trailer and are going to be loading equipment, flexing of the trailer may be a concern. I think some builders assume a even loading and that a certain hitch load can be assumed to get their weights. Also, be sure to compare the main rails, necks, and cross members of trailers. Builders try and cut corners anyway they can to sell a trailer.

I see your point and agree. However, the entire weight of the trailer wouldn't be on the axles. Which is why PJ sets the GVWR at 15680 on this trailer.

I know there are a lot of ways to skin that cat.

I'm going to be over my manufacturer's GCWR on my truck no matter which trailer I buy, so I'm not going to make this decision based fully on what's legal or not, haha!

Regarding the trailer strength, PJ makes one of the toughest and beefiest trailer out there. For sure.

 

[ovrszd]

Yeah, I'm afraid we have discussed this to death. All we are doing now is adding confusion.

One thing you can count on. If a manufacturer says their axles are rated at a certain load, you should not exceed that rating for a lengthy period of time. If you do, you'll end up with failures. Or if a manufacturer says their trailer is rated at a certain load, you should not exceed that for a lengthy period of time, if you do, you'll end up with failures. Same with you tow vehicle, should stay near the maximum rating.

For this reason I tend to overkill things. I want my trailer to carry the load. So I pull a trailer that can do carry the load I am placing on it for an extended period of time.

Will you ever exceed those loads and experience failure?? Probably not. Can you exceed those limits with certain success?? Yep.

So,,,,, I look for what gives me the most comfortable cushion. Overloading my trailer's rated capacity is not on that list.

Buy what you feel like is your best choice based on your knowledge of what you'll do with the trailer.

I am always amused when I see posters that know more about what YOUR needs are than you do.

 

[7879fordman]

Anyone have experience with a triple-axle deck over? I'm trying to consider ALL of my options here, and I'm evaluating at this trailer now: Wetaskiwin Used 2012 PJ 30Ft Gooseneck Triple Axle

(Not that specific one, but that model)

I like that I get the 20K+ GVWR, and I like that I have more ability to put load further forward on the trailer but still be putting the load on the axles, not the truck.

Stay away from the 3 axle trailers turn'n them ya bend the front axle with easy .

Sent from my iPhone 5 using TractorByNet

 

[ovrszd]

Stay away from the 3 axle trailers turn'n them ya bend the front axle with easy .

Sent from my iPhone 5 using TractorByNet

Shoot, I meant to mention that. A friend of mine has a triple single that he hauls a backhoe on. Has bent the front axle twice. Has regular bearing/hub problems.

 

[7879fordman]

Ok your way over Excited over this gross weight and trailer weight and stuff I hate to say .


Your tractor easily can be hauled on single tire 'd 7000# axles . Legally You want be overloaded trailer or truck .

With my 40' gooseneck I have been gross weight of 47,000 pounds haul'n hay . Across country .


Way over worried about this weight thing . Your v10 will pull any trailer ya buy and your tractor with ease .

Just pick a length and either over the deck or not and or dove or tilt bed . Single tire or dual . Ya really way over Complicating this whole or deal .

I'm mean its not like your for hire going all over the country . I know the Texas DOT s are asses but don't think ya will ever be bothered on your 10 mile trips . They bother the bigger trailers like 30-40 footers way worse .


There I said it sorry . But it's the way I see it .

I truck 30,000 -40,000 miles a year pull trailers of all sizes and loads all over the country.

And I have two pj trailers a 20' dump and the 40' . 20' I bought new . The 40' I bought almost new .

Would I buy one new again . It's really ify .

The quality country is way down hill in my eyes . After have'n the 40' I got which is a 2012 . The 20' dump is way better quality buts its a 2005 I believe .

Look at them closely underneath ..

If I was going to by a over the deck it would have dual tires .
Even though dual tires do have more. Road Resistance so it does make them a hard pull'n trailer . A single tire axle will pull easier.

And another thing to think about is buying tires . For the few miles you will put you will not ware them out but will reach there out of date time of 6 years and they will blow with easy after that date . I know from Experience on this .

Just some else to make it more over Complicated for ya .



But again 10 miles it want really matter .



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[econometrics]

Just some else to make it more over Complicated for ya . But again 10 miles it want really matter . Sent from my iPhone 5 using TractorByNet

indeed. The paralysis of analysis!

Thanks for the input though, I do appreciate it.

 

[ENC]

Yes do stay away from triple axles. Been there done that. Sold it to someone wanting to learn what I already figured out.

 

[econometrics]

Sold it to someone wanting to learn what I already figured out.

Haha, nice way of putting it. Thanks to you all, I won't be that guy!

 

[Zebrafive]

Now that tires were mentioned; be sure to check the load rating of the tires. My 14K trailer came with tires rated 3054Lbs each. So unless I change tires I am limited to 12.2K, not 14K.