Buying a new Truck

   / Buying a new Truck
  • Thread Starter
#221  
Don't you think it's odd to have a miss at only 71K and have to change the plugs? I thought that plugs were good for 100K since the 90's. Do you have a catch can and do you drain the intercooler via a weep hole or other means? Of course, IN is not nearly as humid as SE Texas (think Houston) so you may not have the same problem we have.

Wow, sorry to hear. My 2012 has 71K and still original brakes. I changed the plugs at 60K for a miss and it fix it. Other than that a set. Of tires around 40K and a heater blower control module, $75, is it.

I would definitely buy again.

Chris
 
   / Buying a new Truck #222  
71000 is a ridiculously low mileage for plugs to fail in a modern vehicle. My wife's Pacifica didn't need plugs until almost 200000, and while that is a vehicle with mostly highway miles, my Tahoe didn't need plugs until 171000.
 
   / Buying a new Truck #223  
Ford uses a wasted spark ignition on their motors. So the plugs are fired twice for every cycle. On my Explorer they even used two different styles of plug depending on the polarity of the circuit. On three of the six cylinders the center electrode was gone by 100,000 Km's ( 60,000 miles )
 
   / Buying a new Truck #224  
Don't you think it's odd to have a miss at only 71K and have to change the plugs? I thought that plugs were good for 100K since the 90's. Do you have a catch can and do you drain the intercooler via a weep hole or other means? Of course, IN is not nearly as humid as SE Texas (think Houston) so you may not have the same problem we have.


I was told that Ford played with the Gap. My factory ones were at .045. I heard some were .080.

I was told to set the gap on my old ones to .030 or .035, can't remember now. I was not sure what I was in for so I ordered new Motorcraft plugs on Amazon for $4 each to my door and just replaced them for under $25. My old ones looked perfectly fine.

I drilled my inter cooler and nothing came out. I have parked it over the same piece of cardboard for a year and bone dry.

Chris
 
   / Buying a new Truck
  • Thread Starter
#225  
I was told that Ford played with the Gap. My factory ones were at .045. I heard some were .080.

I was told to set the gap on my old ones to .030 or .035, can't remember now. I was not sure what I was in for so I ordered new Motorcraft plugs on Amazon for $4 each to my door and just replaced them for under $25. My old ones looked perfectly fine.

I drilled my inter cooler and nothing came out. I have parked it over the same piece of cardboard for a year and bone dry.

Chris

Mine were gapped at .045. I set them about .030, but information varies between .028 and .035. I live in HOT and HUMID Texas. Since I cannot afford to get rid of the truck at this time I am fixing to order a catch can and drill the intercooler as well. I plan on taking the IC out and making sure that nothing is caught up on the bottom (sludge etc).
 
   / Buying a new Truck #226  
I would also encourage anyone who owns or plans to own an Ecoboost Ford truck to drill the hole in the CAC to let out the water that accumulates there and get a catch-can to prevent the crud that comes out of the crank case from being recycled back into the intake. I am certain that the "junk" in the PCV is what fouled the plugs so early. I am also certain that if I could examine my intake manifold it would be similarly fouled to my plugs. I own 3 Ford trucks, a 150, 250, and 350 but I probably won't own another.
The crud in the PCV sounds like a common issue with these direct injected gas engines.
 
   / Buying a new Truck #228  
TheGoose, I read this whole thread, sorry to hear about the Ford. Though, you started this thread asking everyone what they paid versus the sticker and you never provided that information yourself. Which I'm certainly interested in. I checked the numbers people were paying vs their documented list prices. Typically, if they felt good about the deal and posted it here, they were able to negotiate around 15-17.5% off of the sticker/list price.
 
   / Buying a new Truck
  • Thread Starter
#229  
TheGoose, I read this whole thread, sorry to hear about the Ford. Though, you started this thread asking everyone what they paid versus the sticker and you never provided that information yourself. Which I'm certainly interested in. I checked the numbers people were paying vs their documented list prices. Typically, if they felt good about the deal and posted it here, they were able to negotiate around 15-17.5% off of the sticker/list price.

Truck stickered in the mid-40's (don't remember exactly as this thread is from 2012). Bought the truck for ~34.5K plus TTL for a drive out of about $36.5K. You probably could not buy this truck now for less than $38-42K plus TTL.
 

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