Buying a tractor

Dryland · Apr 21, 2006

We bought 4.5 acres which has a small wetland in the back corner, about 1.5 acres will have a 2 stall horse barn that will use 3 rail fencing, another portion will be some lawn area and some will remain "woodsy".

We had the bramble and berry vines removed but there is a need to do some smoothing, dragging to pull up small branches in the soil and generally get control of the land. We'll be digging some fence posts, etc.

Suggestions on a small tractor that could serve as a good general purpose unit? New to this so don't assume I know much.

Thanks for any help. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

spb1971 · Apr 21, 2006

Look at a Massey Ferguson 1528. It is 28HP, either a 9x3 gear transmission or 3-range hydrostatic. They are competitively priced and a good tractor for the size operation you are looking for.

Dryland · Apr 21, 2006

Just got off the phone with the local Kubota dealer who suggested I stop by and take a look around. He claims that Kubota's come with a 3 year warranty, rarely have major problems and handle a wide range of attachments.

I asked about new vs. used and he commented that if I can find one with a reasonable # of hours that's been well maintained I should be fine. This dealer also picks up any units with waranty issues, takes it back to their shop, delivers the repaired unit and supplies a loner if necessary.

proudestmonkey · Apr 21, 2006

I just bought a Kubota BX2230 for my 5 acres, with the intent to do most of what you are doing (I just posted a fairly detailed review of this new tractor on the review page, which is intended for folks new to tractors because I myself am new to tractors). The Kubota I bought is considered a subcompact Tractor--so its in the smallest class of tractors that are capable of what larger tractors can do, but on a smaller scale. I did quite a bit of research and from what I could see, this was the best cholce for me (the 2230 has been replaced this year with the 2350).

I have seen some people around here say that the BX line of Kubota tractors have rear 3 pt. hitch system which can be tricky (limited) when using it for a post hole digger (for fence construction). You might want to look into that. I've also heard a number of people say that the backhoe on the BX 24 is a nice addition, but maybe isn't worth the extra expense. Whatever you do, make sure you buy something with a front end loader. I hadn't planned on getting one, and its all I've been using for the past several weeks, and by years end, the FEL may get more use than the mower. And if you do get the FEL, get some weight for the rear end of your tractor. I bought a ballast box for weight. Its a cheap alternative to other rear implements ($149), which can also be used as a tool box when the FEL is off the tractor. I just drilled a 1/2 inch hole in the rear lip of mine tonight so I can use it tomorrow for toting pruning tools around in the box, while also pulling a utility car behind the ballast box with dirt, rakes and a shovel to fill holes in the yard. I also had them put windshield washer in the rear wheels for better traction and balance.

Cliff_Johns · Apr 21, 2006

( Just got off the phone with the local Kubota dealer who suggested I stop by and take a look around. He claims that Kubota's come with a 3 year warranty, rarely have major problems and handle a wide range of attachments.)

That's true. Also true of other brands.

( I asked about new vs. used and he commented that if I can find one with a reasonable # of hours that's been well maintained I should be fine. )

That's true too.

( This dealer also picks up any units with waranty issues, takes it back to their shop, delivers the repaired unit and supplies a loner if necessary. )

Any good dealer will do this within some specified mile limit. That or they will send the truck out and fix it on site.

Cliff

jbrumberg · Apr 22, 2006

Dryland:
Welcome to TBN! There are a lot of solid tractor brands in the marketplace. I suggest you visit your local tractor dealerships and test drive some tractors to get a feel for each brand. Comfort level with the dealer is as important as with the tractor ultimately. Specifications and prices are generally relatively close within tractor class for the major brands and each brand will have some trade-offs when comparisons are made. As you mentioned that you had some wetland area ground clearance may be a concern. SCUT's usually do not have the ground clearance as a CUT. I finally upgraded from a SCUT to a CUT for the CUT's increased ground clearance, power, weight, and increased front and 3PH lift capacities. Good luck on your search! Many of us at TBN are more than willing to help you spend your money (and help you justify your purchases with "the comptroller" (AKA "she who must be obeyed" in my situation) /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Jay

Dryland · Apr 22, 2006

Ok...we just went by the local Kubota dealer who has been in business since 1986. We looked at the 7510 and the 7610. He quoted me a price of $13,500 for the 7510 with a FEL and a box for leveling/smoothing. If I want the 7610 it's $1,000 more. I have my choice of the three tires; it's serviced and delivered to my property.

The MF dealer is about 40 miles away. The local JD dealer has a poor service reputation. So, from a service standpoint the Kubota looks to be the best bet.

How's the $13,500/$14,500 price (before sales tax)?

Any other thoughts for me?

KiotiJohn · Apr 23, 2006

( How's the $13,500/$14,500 price (before sales tax)? )
About average I would say from what I've seen of the same models.
John

Dryland · Apr 25, 2006

Ok...I bought the 7510 with a 302 FEL and a box/scaper for $13,500 + tax delivered. 3 year warranty with free pickup/repair/return + a loner if needed for warranty issues. Being delivered today. Guess I need to learn how to operate it and not hurt myself.

3RRL · Apr 25, 2006

What tires did you choose?

flusher · Apr 25, 2006

I bought a B7510HST/LA302 FEL last May for $12,600 plus tax. Came with ag tires, 3-year warranty, 10% down/0% financing for 36 months. Added a King Kutter 4'ft box blade later ($375 at Tractor Supply Co.).

It's a solid little tractor. I've used the heck out of the FEL toting gravel, sand, drain rock, building materials, etc. Got a $175 toothbar for the FEL from Markham Welding to help when digging.

Used the box blade and FEL to dig trenches for paver block walkways in the front and back of my new house (4' wide x 70 ft long, each). See attachment.

Also bought a 4-ft King Kutter rotary mower (aka bush hog, brush hog, shredder) for $675 at TSC. I have 10 acres total of which about 7 acres are weeds that get mowed with the hog.

The other 3 acres include landscaped areas, a small almond orchards, the house, garage/shop and several small sheds. Use a cheapie 42"/18hp Huskee riding mower from TSC ($1000 + $180 for 3-year service contract) to handle the lawn mowing chores.

Also have a KK middle buster plow/sub soiler ($135 at TSC) for cutting trenches for landscape irrigation pipe and drains.

I assume you'll be getting a set of similar attachments real quick. Tractor's not much good without implements.

Dryland · Apr 25, 2006

Tires: The middle set (not sure the right term). Not the turf and not the narrow deep tread. Spent the afternoon starting to learn how to use the tractor.

Handles well. Since I've never run a tractor before I have a long way to go getting the "feel" of the FEl, the box scraper, etc., but it will come with time.

kozak · Apr 25, 2006

Dryland,

R4's....aka Industrial.

Congratulations on your purchase. Hope the tractor fits all your needs now & into the future.

The Dealer may already have told you but just in case......when using a full load in the FEL, do not transport with the bucket way up high. Keep it low. Not sure if you indicated you had rear ballast or if you keep the box blade on for that purpose. Will make FEL operation much smoother & safer.

Stay Safe,

Vic

KiotiJohn · Apr 26, 2006

Congratulations. You'll enjoy the tractor, and learning how to do everything is a big part of the fun.

One think I would suggest is that you read all the information in your owner manual, especially the safety info. Also read the safety forum here on TBN. Safety is extremely important with this type of equipment as anything can happen in a big hurry.

Enjoy!
John

Dryland · Apr 26, 2006

I spent a couple of hours using the 7510 yesterday. I played with the ripper highth adjustment on the box scaper. It appears that I don't have a hydraulic way of changing the angle of the box to get the tines to bite more...I can only adjust the tines to 3 different levels of depth. I think I can get a wrench and adjust the angle of the box manually if I want the tines to bite more and first.

Today I'll play with the FEL to start getting a sense of what I can do, how it feels, etc.

KiotiJohn · Apr 26, 2006

All you need do is adjust the top link. If you want the rippers to dig in more, shorten the link by turning it. It's a turnbuckle type with threads on each end right? If you shorten it, the front of the box will go down, if you lengthen it, the front will come up.

You can get a hydraulic top link and a right lift arm link, but you would need to put in remote hydraulic kit(s) to do so.

Play with that toplink, and you'll soon be getting at those jobs.
John

Dodgeram · Apr 26, 2006

KJ,
Not to hijack the thread, and the question has probably been answered:
Since I have the rear remotes for the BH, can I get just the fore/aft hydraulic for the top link?
I also agree, if you adjust that top link (tighten) you can stop the tractor /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
Tom

Dryland · Apr 26, 2006

Thanks for the comments on adjusting the top link. It looked like the non-hydrolic way to go. I played with the "float" setting on the scaper today and put the tines in the mid position. Seemed to work fairly well. Managed to scrape a lot of vegetation off and turn up a fair amount of the deadwood laying just under the surface. I toss the wood in the FEL as I drag, dump and repeat.

Tomorrow I get my wife on it. I also need to start playing with the FEL. I have 2 large burn piles of stumps and other debris that were burned when I had the land cleared. Lots of ask and dirt that needs to be moved around so I can recreate the burn piles to finish the job.