Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing

   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #51  
You can always buy the grapple later if you decide you need it. The L3560 HST has a fairly low PTO power for 37 engine hp which might be a concern for power hungry PTO operations.

28 - PTO - horsepower with HST+ transmission.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #52  
Thanks for the well thought out response.

A skidding winch is probably going to be a not-to-distant purchase following the tractor, as it's realistically the only way I can see to access a lot of the land. I will be able to cut out a bunch of small stuff to make main thoroughfares for the tractor, but I think I will basically be constrained to staying on those paths, as everywhere else is so rocky and uneven.

I'm still not sure on how much hp I really need for a PTO driven rear blower. Maybe I need to post specifically in the snow removal section? I know the rule of thumb is 5 Hp per foot width, but that doesn't really tell me how much quicker I can expect to move snow versus my current Ariens 28 deluxe walk behind.

From multiple responses here it sounds like maybe I should rethink the idea of getting a grapple. I initially thought I'd use it for harvesting rocks, building retaining walls, and loading firewood into bins, but prevailing opinions seem to be that the grapple probably won't work for loading firewood into bins, and I can probably transport rocks easier with a sled, while using straps off the loader to place them on a wall. As you mentioned, skidding rocks on a hood isn't a bad idea either.

I hesitate at buying a JD or Kubota solely because of the lesser "value" due to the higher price. However, again, prevailing opinion seems to be that there are other considerations that might likely outweigh that hangup. In JD and Kubota, I'm guessing I would probably be looking at either JD 3039R, or L3560, both with a cab. Really, as I get closer to the purchase (January or so time frame, I'm hoping) I think I just need to get out and sit on a bunch of them as well to also factor in ergonomics.

On the snow blower...I have seen 70HP tractors bog down and have to take it in passes if the snow is too deep. I don't have one so am not much help in this regard. I do recommend getting on the snow removal forum for a more experienced answer.

The grapple is such as useful tool..I dont want to discourage you. It is also an expensive investment. I would recommend getting the 3rd function at a minimum installed with purchase. That said it just doesn't sound like you will be able to get the tractor into the spots where you can grab a bunch of these rocks. Remember you can also easily lift rocks with pallet forks. I am most nervous about a big rock on the FEL and uneven terrain in your case. Just seems better to pull the rock behind the tractor.

Regarding the tractor brand...get out and demo them all. Spend an hour or so operating everything in each machine. FEL, 4wd, diff lock, Loader + bucket dumps, turning radius, check underside for hoses/vulnerabilities and exposure, 3 pt system and ease of access/adjustment, AC and Heater, windshield wipers (ie does it fog up easily). How easy it reverses and transitions between forward and reverse (for your rear blower). Windows and easy of manipulation (how open, close) for winter, light placement and ease of adding/changing light fixtures...often you are going to be adding rear lights if you have a blower.

Make a list of the above, go in terrible weather and fire these tractors up in with the Heater. Drive them around! Operate the FEL, operate the transmission. Get a good feel for what it will be like doing your tasks. I went with my father to look at cab tractors in 105 degree TX heat...and the ACs performed very differently in different brands. Dont be afraid to spend a few hours in a tractor on the lot. It is a big investment, and so much harder to decide than an automobile.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #53  
"I hesitate at buying a JD or kubota solely because of the lesser "value" due to the higher price". This is one of the biggest fallacies people have about buying the top brands. Lowest price rarely is a true measure of overall value, often it is the opposite. The extra cost to buy the better engineered and better built unit, with better dealer support, is just a "sunk cost" or just an invested amount in the unit. You recover more than the increased price differential on any resale. The cheaper off brand tractors depreciate so dramatically on a resale, and are harder to sell.

If you get a cab unit, make sure it has great air conditioning, they tend to be sweat boxes
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #54  
On the snow blower...I have seen 70HP tractors bog down and have to take it in passes if the snow is too deep. I don't have one so am not much help in this regard. I do recommend getting on the snow removal forum for a more experienced answer.

The grapple is such as useful tool..I dont want to discourage you. It is also an expensive investment. I would recommend getting the 3rd function at a minimum installed with purchase. That said it just doesn't sound like you will be able to get the tractor into the spots where you can grab a bunch of these rocks. Remember you can also easily lift rocks with pallet forks. I am most nervous about a big rock on the FEL and uneven terrain in your case. Just seems better to pull the rock behind the tractor.

Regarding the tractor brand...get out and demo them all. Spend an hour or so operating everything in each machine. FEL, 4wd, diff lock, Loader + bucket dumps, turning radius, check underside for hoses/vulnerabilities and exposure, 3 pt system and ease of access/adjustment, AC and Heater, windshield wipers (ie does it fog up easily). How easy it reverses and transitions between forward and reverse (for your rear blower). Windows and easy of manipulation (how open, close) for winter, light placement and ease of adding/changing light fixtures...often you are going to be adding rear lights if you have a blower.

Make a list of the above, go in terrible weather and fire these tractors up in with the Heater. Drive them around! Operate the FEL, operate the transmission. Get a good feel for what it will be like doing your tasks. I went with my father to look at cab tractors in 105 degree TX heat...and the ACs performed very differently in different brands. Dont be afraid to spend a few hours in a tractor on the lot. It is a big investment, and so much harder to decide than an automobile.

I feel fairly confident you’ll be adequately warm in any heated cab. Heat is “cheap”. My Kubota skid steer has enough heater to stay toasty warm with the windows open. The air conditioning is the more likely to be lacking.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing
  • Thread Starter
#55  
"I hesitate at buying a JD or kubota solely because of the lesser "value" due to the higher price". This is one of the biggest fallacies people have about buying the top brands. Lowest price rarely is a true measure of overall value, often it is the opposite. The extra cost to buy the better engineered and better built unit, with better dealer support, is just a "sunk cost" or just an invested amount in the unit. You recover more than the increased price differential on any resale. The cheaper off brand tractors depreciate so dramatically on a resale, and are harder to sell.

If you get a cab unit, make sure it has great air conditioning, they tend to be sweat boxes

What if you don't ever plan to resell it?

There seems to be a common consensus on the forum here that there are many brands that offer just as well built and engineered tractors as JD and Kubota at a much more aggressive price point.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #56  
I've got a 2008 Kubota B3030 open station with loader and 72" deck that had served me well since I bought it used in 2013. I'm also considering a similar move from the B3030 to a Kioti Cab CK3510se or DK4210se. There's a good Kioti dealer about an hour from me that I visited this past weekend. I have to say that I was very impressed with both the CK and DK. The cabs were very nice with fit and finish you would expect. Very low noise and the A/C worked well. It was about 50F and I could make it uncomfortably hot and cold. Their CK was sold so I couldn't drive it, but I started it up to get a sense for noise and FEL performance. I played with their DK4710se and it was impressive. Had nice power and easy to drive. Going to look at a Kubota L4060 soon to see if it's worth the extra $7k. Here's some pics of the DK. Sorry doing this on my phone and it looks like the pics didn't rotate correctly. My primary motivation aside from the cab is more lifting capacity on the FEL. I just need more than the B3030 has to give.
 

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   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #57  
What if you don't ever plan to resell it?

There seems to be a common consensus on the forum here that there are many brands that offer just as well built and engineered tractors as JD and Kubota at a much more aggressive price point.

Many of us don't plan on selling, but it happens for various reasons. These are expensive investments, and each person has to make their own informed decision. Resale value is something we should all at least consider...but it doesn't have to be the sole criteria in deciding for JD or Kubota over the others.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #58  
What if you don't ever plan to resell it?

There seems to be a common consensus on the forum here that there are many brands that offer just as well built and engineered tractors as JD and Kubota at a much more aggressive price point.

Kioti is the best of the “knockoffs” IMO. I’ve never had any experience with TYM, RK, and some others, but LS and Mahindra definitely have a less degree of fit and finish.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #59  
Kioti is the best of the “knockoffs” IMO. I’ve never had any experience with TYM, RK, and some others, but LS and Mahindra definitely have a less degree of fit and finish.
I was really wanting to get a Ford blue LS tractor. I drove to the nearest dealer, talked a bit, walked out to look something similar to a B2650 Kubota and test drove it with a 2 speed HST and thought that it was pretty good.... Then we opened the hood to look at the layout, closed the hood and the LS chrome badge busted off of the hood and hit the ground.

That's what it took. I left, never to return.

Kioti was the only other beans that stayed in the fight against Kubota for me. What swayed me was that the Kubota dealer is 35 miles away and the Kioti dealers were around 80 miles away. I payed around 4 Grand more, but my dealership is close and they have proven to be extremely helpful.

I'm happy with my purchase of a dealer.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #60  
"I hesitate at buying a JD or kubota solely because of the lesser "value" due to the higher price". This is one of the biggest fallacies people have about buying the top brands. Lowest price rarely is a true measure of overall value, often it is the opposite. The extra cost to buy the better engineered and better built unit, with better dealer support, is just a "sunk cost" or just an invested amount in the unit. You recover more than the increased price differential on any resale. The cheaper off brand tractors depreciate so dramatically on a resale, and are harder to sell.

If you get a cab unit, make sure it has great air conditioning, they tend to be sweat boxes

News to me!

You would have a hard time convincing me of the getting more for my money on everything except maybe the dealer support or convenience of having more dealers to choose from.
I am also not impressed with resale when the percentages are figured out based on purchase price compared to actual cash in pocket.
 

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