Buying new truck - Do we need trailer brakes?

[4570Man]

Another thing you have to be concerned about is tongue weight. It needs to be between 10% and 15% of the weight being towed. So if we're talking 2000# trailer and 9000# tractor total 11,000 pounds, you need between 1,100# and 1,650# which comes out of your payload numbers, you're not going to be putting anything in the bed when towing this. You are very close to exceeding the ratings of the truck.

By the way, less than 10% is not good, it leads to trailer sway and loss of control of the truck and trailer.

I usually haul my mower all the way against the front of the trailer because it’s easier to strap that way. My dad borrowed it and I had to roll it back to get the tongue weight light enough to handle. That mower and trailer is about 4000 pounds and it’s about the limits of what I like to tow behind the half ton. He’s got a 16” box trailer that pulls decent behind the half ton but not great. People pulling these huge travel trailers behind half tons are an accident waiting to happen. Ive got a 2500 suburban that tows quite a bit better than dads 1500 one. We’ve both got ton trucks and they’re WAY better for towing pretty much anything.

 

[paulfun9]

Thank you for all the responses and advice. You guys gave us so much more information that we never thought to ask about. We will definitely get the trailer brake control added by the dealer or get an aftermarket one.

I have looked up the answers to your concerns and advice:
Per the RAM website, the truck will haul 11,400 lbs, has a 1,500 lb payload and it's a 4WD. It has a Class IV receiver-hitch, 7-pin wiring harness, and 3.92 rear axle ratio.
The trailer has 2 sets of wheels on each side (dual axle) and weighs ~2,000 lbs and will tow 10,000 lbs (per the dealer). It does have trailer brakes.
The MX5800 has loaded tires, FEL and will either have an 1,100 lb brush hog or a 900 lb chipper (hopefully an EA grapple in the future), so I think I'm close with the 9,000 lb tractor/trailer weight estimate.
The drive to the property is primarily flat with only a few curves on the back roads.

We will definitely be doing an unloaded dry run with the trailer and be sure to level out the load. Do you have any recommendation on trailer hitches besides getting a Class IV and 10,000 towing weight?

Go to the Ram website and look up the towing for the specific truck using the Vin number. I have seen many dealers give incorrect towing for trucks because they just look at the max towing for a model and year but themselves don稚 know that only certain options will make that rating and others won稚.

Don稚 skimp on thevtowing gear. Buy better than you need if your on the edge of the class, piece of mind will be worth the little extra especially when you find your towing needs change and that 10 to 15 miles turns into uncle Charlie would like us to bring the tracktor over and help clear the field for the family reunion and it痴 100 to 200 miles instead.

Sorry some how I missed you looked up the towing, and was thinking the dealer gave that number.

 

[dodge man]

If I understand, the trailer and tractor will weigh 9000 lbs?? If that number is correct I would say the truck you are looking at is barely adequate. The critical number is payload. By the time you figure the tongue weight of the trailer and people in the truck you will hit that 1500 lb payload.

Almost all hitches like you will have list a 500 lb tongue weight and 5000 lb towing WITHOUT a weight distribution hitch. A weight distribution hitch simply put uses various methods to take the sag out of the hitch and put the weight back on the front axle of the truck. They can also have sway control.

I will just add you see a lot of people towing stuff they should not be with a half ton the fact you are here asking questions shows you are trying to do it right.

 

[KennyG]

I agree. I wince every time I see a half ton pulling a tandem axle horse trailer, a loaded car trailer, a full dump trailer, etc. They are enough for a tent trailer or a small boat, but not much else.

Well, that's going a little overboard. I agree the OP should be seriously considering a 3/4 ton, but 1/2 ton trucks have a lot of capacity. My F-150 is set up for over 11,000 lbs. I'm not sure I would be comfortable with max load but towing 7500 lbs it's a dream.

 

[Gem99ultra]

I would rethink your whole plan. First get a vehicle rated to tow more than your intended load. If you say 9,000 lbs then I would want a model that states 10,000 lbs. As others have said you don't need the factory brake controller option but I would find out what else is included. Usually it'll be a part of something like a "tow package" that will include things like a transmission cooler. Your plans on towing a short distance might make it tempting to skimp but if things go wrong you could be facing people getting injured and an expensive lawsuit (that your insurer may not cover).

Here's my story when it comes to Dodge (they may make better parts now, I don't know). I had a 94 1500 with the 318 in it. I was towing a small trailer withe 3 dirt bikes on it. If it weighed 2000 lbs I would be surprised. It was about 50 miles of mostly interstate driving at 60ish mph. When we got home the back of the truck and everything on the trailer was covered in oil. Where I parked there was fluid leaking out of the front of thee tranny. It was still under warranty and they replaced it and the torque converter but warned me that they wouldn't cover it again. Needless to say I traded that truck in and have never bought another Dodge. My point is not to bash Dodge but that it's not just stopping. I can assure you that replacing the transmission in a new truck will cost you well over $2k.

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Not intending to sway the OP, nor to distract from the topic, but... My last Dodge van was horrible to start first thing in the day. Holley (carb) helped a lot to fix that one of many problems with the van. But the day the driver's door fell off - and I mean 'hit the ground off', I decided I might try another brand next time.

On topic - I also agree, but the right size towing vehicle, then select the towing options. Towing a trailer is not something to be casual about.

 

[fried1765]

Well, that's going a little overboard. I agree the OP should be seriously considering a 3/4 ton, but 1/2 ton trucks have a lot of capacity. My F-150 is set up for over 11,000 lbs. I'm not sure I would be comfortable with max load but towing 7500 lbs it's a dream.

On occasion I tow my 14K equipment trailer at 11,000 lbs.GWV, using my 454 V-8 K2500 4x4 Suburban.
I use a 14,000 lb. Equal-i-zer hitch, and have AirLift bags.
It tows just OK, but the main issue is braking ability!
No way would I use ANY 1/2T PU, no matter what tow load is claimed by the mfg.

 

[Fallon]

Another thing you have to be concerned about is tongue weight. It needs to be between 10% and 15% of the weight being towed. So if we're talking 2000# trailer and 9000# tractor total 11,000 pounds, you need between 1,100# and 1,650# which comes out of your payload numbers, you're not going to be putting anything in the bed when towing this. You are very close to exceeding the ratings of the truck.

By the way, less than 10% is not good, it leads to trailer sway and loss of control of the truck and trailer.

Completely correct. Driver, passengers, fuel, tools & anything you put in the truck counts as payload as well. So generally there is 500lbs of "payload" before you even add that 1,500lbs of tongue weight.

All manufacturers state max trailer weights without regard for payload capacity & appropriate tongue weight.

For that reason most 3/4 ton trucks will barely haul a 14k trailer due to inadequate payload capacity. You need a 1 ton to haul a decent trailer & actually put anything in the bed.

3/4 tons have a GVWR of 10k. A double cab diesel is over 8k. It will take tongue weight for a 14k trailer, but not really anything else. My 2014 F350 double cab diesel full of fuel & with a bed box & tools comes in at 8,800lbs. Minimal if any differences in suspension or truck weight between a F250 & F350. But a F250 doesnt have enough payload to haul a 14k trailer despite being rated to haul more.

 

[timswi]

Personally, I'd look for a truck with the integrated controller. The OEM controller oftentimes coordinates with things like sway control etc, these are nice features in my opinion. I had the GM parts controller (a Curt if memory serves) added to my last truck and I hated that thing. It was difficult to adjust the sensitivity when going between materially different weight trailers. On the integrated controllers all you have to deal with is the gain amount (GM anyway).

Remember that the truck isn't supposed to stop the trailer, the trailer brakes are supposed to do a fair amount of the work. If they are not, you'll have serious problems.

 

[FTG-05]

Hi Everyone,

My husband is looking at a new Ram 1500 Rebel to tow our tractor to the property, but the truck he likes doesn't have the trailer brake control option. Does he need that option? We would only be towing it about 10-15 miles. Can a dealer install it easily? It costs $295 from the factory, but would it cost more installed by the dealer?

Weight for tractor and trailer/attachment would probably be about 9,000 lbs.

YES!!!!

The bigger question is: How is this even a question?

 

[Binx]

The trailer is ~2,000 lbs per the dealer. The tractor is ~3,800 lbs, FEL and bucket ~1,000 lbs, rotary cutter ~1,100 lbs. Loaded tires are maybe 800 lbs. I rounded those numbers up to 9,000 lbs to be safe, so a class IV should work.