buying oem carburetor instead of aftermarket

   / buying oem carburetor instead of aftermarket
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thanks for the responses,I bought a replacement thru amazon and it said it was a direct replacement but after taking it out today everything looked the same except for where the choke cable goes into. So not sure if it has to be modified or not and I'm not sure what it would take to do. Again any thoughts and or suggestions. Thanks in advance. The 1st picture is of the original carburetor and there is a slot inside of the choke hole in the 2nd picture is the replacement and it has a spring and no slot in the choke hole. Thanks again IMG_0067.JPGIMG_0068.JPGIMG_0066.JPG
 
   / buying oem carburetor instead of aftermarket #12  
Kehins are good Japanese carbs. If the float needle is sticking there's a reason for it, such as dirt in the fuel or worn parts. Fix that and you'll have a good carb that will work for a long time. Cleaning or replacing the fuel filters is a good idea. If there's only the tank strainer and a strainer in the carb you should add a real filter to the line. If there's rust or dirt in the tank it'll cause problems for any carb you put on.
 
   / buying oem carburetor instead of aftermarket #13  
Did you check Q&A or reviews on Amazon to see if another buyer ran into this? You can often find the answer there.
 
   / buying oem carburetor instead of aftermarket #14  
ONLY buy OEM I just bought a non OEM carb and my Kawasaki is running like dung
 
   / buying oem carburetor instead of aftermarket #15  
ONLY buy OEM I just bought a non OEM carb and my Kawasaki is running like dung

Q.E.D. First thing I do with these Chinese carbs, purchased new, is take them apart and clean them.
I just got a Chinese carb for a Husky 55, and I found some manufacturing flashing inside one of the needle
valves. Found it before I installed it.

Your carb is prob too lean on mid and main (see above). If you do not want to buy another mid jet, just
file it out a bit with a small torch-cleaning file. The main, you can adjust the needle upward.
 
   / buying oem carburetor instead of aftermarket #16  
Thanks for the responses,I bought a replacement thru amazon and it said it was a direct replacement but after taking it out today everything looked the same except for where the choke cable goes into. So not sure if it has to be modified or not and I'm not sure what it would take to do. Again any thoughts and or suggestions. Thanks in advance. The 1st picture is of the original carburetor and there is a slot inside of the choke hole in the 2nd picture is the replacement and it has a spring and no slot in the choke hole. Thanks againView attachment 543402View attachment 543403View attachment 543401

First thing about the spring. I'm making the assumption its a replacement for the one in your original choke cable. Probably because it's one of those parts that wears out and they give you a new one instead of the complete cable assembly.

As far as aftermarket carbs. I've had 3 with different results. Small Briggs engine on go kart, bolted right up and it ran without any adjustments. Second was for a Chinese go kart with a Honda 250 moped clone engine. Worked great with some minor idle screw adjustments. Chinese for Chinese so probably why it worked but probably would be good for the Honda equivalent. Third was for a 2004 Kawasaki KFX 400. This one had issues but now works like a champ. Bought it because original float wouldn't seal and rebuild kit was more than Amazon carb. First issue I had the throttle cable connected in a different location(both carbs had 2 places) and the adjuster wasn't threaded enough to make cable work. The fix for this was to just put cable in second location. For the treaded cable adjuster the seller actually sent me a new one they threaded so it would work. The other issue I had was it would blow fuel out air cleaner end and would only run good if I held my hand over intake and "choked" it till RPMs got up. This fix took more investigating on my part. Long story short the original carb had different jet sizes for both idle and main circuits. I took original jets out and put them in new carb. Luckily threads were the same.

On a side note I wrote to seller to tell him about jet differences as an FYI for him if others had same issue. I was told that now my warranty(never saw this in any paperwork I received with carb) was voided since I opened float bowl and that their carbs jets are not numbered. I told them that yes they are and sent them photos. I never heard back from them. I'm going on my third summer with this carb. I can go weeks without starting it and it fires right up and idles and runs great. So after a few issues the Chinese carb for a Kawasaki 400 works like a factory original.

If you want any small engine to run good and last these days non ethanol is the only way to go. Once again or federal government and probably some corn lobbyist make a good thing (gasoline) a pain for the general population. It also eats hoses and starts corrosion in tanks. I have a 69 GTO with really old gas, still runs good after all these years. Wasn't my plan to have gas in there that long, that's another story, but thank God it was pre ethanol days.
 
   / buying oem carburetor instead of aftermarket #17  
my daughter has an older Yamaha 250CC MOTO4, recently she decided she wanted it running again, as cheap as I could do it. It needed a battery & carb rebuild, the carb was a mess. I ended up soaking it in lacquer thinner and running number drills and fine spring wire through all the passages and air bleeds, finally got it running great after 2 rebuilds, Moral of the story, today's fuels suck, if you're going to store it us stabilizer, I also like to use an ethanol neutralizer when I can, some stabilizers have it in it, if not then I try to use Startron. I have used replacement carbs from Amazon on my Yamaha Bruin 350 with no problems, & was surprised that they actually had them.
 
   / buying oem carburetor instead of aftermarket #18  
Thanks for the responses,I bought a replacement thru amazon and it said it was a direct replacement but after taking it out today everything looked the same except for where the choke cable goes into. So not sure if it has to be modified or not and I'm not sure what it would take to do. Again any thoughts and or suggestions. Thanks in advance. The 1st picture is of the original carburetor and there is a slot inside of the choke hole in the 2nd picture is the replacement and it has a spring and no slot in the choke hole. Thanks againView attachment 543402View attachment 543403View attachment 543401

that spring is the replacement for the one on the end of the cable. there is most likely a new tip from your cable hiding in there also. Looks like the choke is pulled in your picture so push in the choke so you can get to the tip of that spring hiding in the screw fitting to push up the spring to get the old plunger tip off and install the new one that came with the carb. That part would have to be remove and replaced even with a new choke cable because they don't come with the choke cable.
 

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